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Roundabout Rambles 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



- 1/ 

CHARLES FAKING 

Author of the " Land We Live In," etc. 



THE LIBRARY 
or CONGRESS 

[WASHINGTON 



BOSTON 

LEE AND SHEPARD PUBLISHERS 

1S98 



13995 

Copyright, 1898, by Lee and Shepard 



All rights reserved 



Roundabout Rambles in Northern Europe 



nVED. 

\> V'S. TYPOGRAPHY BY C. J. PETERS & SON, BOSTON. 



PRESSWORK by BERWICK & SMiTH. 

"8681. 
*AdOO PU2 



PREFACE 



The Cartmells are natural travellers. They love to see the 
beautiful and the wonderful, at home and abroad ; they are 
willing to put up with inconveniences, and they rarely worry 
over accidents or grumble at delays. Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell 
began to make short excursions, taking their children with 
them when quite small. Before going to Europe, long trips 
were made in America, and described in the volume entitled 
" The Land We Live In." Pleasure and education are the 
great objects of their journeyings. 

Miss Gray, the governess, usually accompanies them to 
look after the children, and to give them instruction as occa- 
sion permits. Frequently Mr. French, an old friend, joins the 
Cartmells, with his new yacht, the Verbena. 

As Great Britain is so closely connected with the United 
States by language, history, and ancestry, the Cartmells find 
much to interest- thenr -there,-- and spend nearly a year in 
sojourning within its borders. Even then many well-known 
places are not visited, and are in many cases not mentioned 
in the text. 

Every effort has been made to have the information given 
correct and up to date, so that the book may be a safe guide 
to all travellers crossing the Atlantic. The illustrations are 
nearly all made from photographs obtained largely in Europe. 
The Cunard Company has beeu.very courteous in lending pho- 
tographs and cuts. A list of poems connected with the places 
described, which can be read profitably as the chapters are 
taken up, is given at the end of the book. 



IV 



PREFACE 



Following the poems will be found a list of the best books 
used in the preparation of this volume, which can be con- 
sulted for more detailed information. The author hereby ac- 
knowledges his great indebtedness to these books for valuable 
facts. 

Great assistance has also been given him by Mr. M. T. 
Pritchard, Master of the Everett School, Boston ; Miss Emma 
L. Merrill, B-oxbury ; Mrs. Mary E. Ereeman, Dorchester ; and 
Miss Gratia Cobb, Philadelphia. 

THE AUTHOR. 



COJSTTEJ^TS 



Chapter Page 

I. A EUROPEAN TOUR . 1 

General Route in the British Isles — Tug — Lucania, a Cunard 
Steamer — Ancient Log — Modem Log — Cunard Track Chart — 
Ship's Compass — Fishing Schooner. 

11. CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 15 

At Sea — Drawing-Room — Twin Screws — Engine Rooms — 
Triple Expansion Engine — Bed of the Ocean — Phosphores- 
cence — "Wheel-House — Search-Lights — Different Lines of 
Steamers — Queenstown — Harbor — Landing — The Espla- 
nade. 

III. THROUGH IRELAND 29 

Cork Harbor — Seaside Village — Jaunting Car — Blarney Cas- 
tle — Route in Ireland — Gap of Dunloe — Killarney — Eagle's 
Nest — Middle Lake — Ross Castle — Killarney Lakes. 

IV. NORTHERN IRELAND 40 

English and Irish Railways — Western Part of Ireland — Peas- 
ants and Cabins — Dublin — Tram-Cars — Phoenix Park — Bel- 
fast — Antrim — Round Tower — Cliffs — Giant's Causeway. 

V. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 54 

Route near Glasgow — Broomielaw Bridge — Clyde — Atlantic 
Liners — Building the Campania — Ready for Launching — 
Launched — Route in Scotland — Burns's Cottage — Kirk-Allo- 
way — Burns's Mausoleum. 

VI. OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 68 

Fingal's Cave — Basalt — Island of lona — Lecture on Scotland — 
Famous Lakes — Dumbarton Castle — Balloch — Ben Lomond — 
Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The Trossachs — Forth Bridge — 
Edinburgh — Scott's Monument — Edinburgh Castle — Holyrood 
Palace. 

V 



yj CONTENTS 

Chapter Page 

VII. ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES . . 86 
Roslin Chapel — Melrose Abbey — Abbotsf ord — Route in Eng- 
land — England and Wales — York Minster — Plan — Choir 
Screen — Front Facade — Chapter-House — Choir — The Five 
Sisters — Lincoln Cathedral — Peterborough Cathedral — Ely 
Cathedral — Cambridge — On the Cam — University Town — 
Senior Wrangler. 

VIII. LONDON, FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 107 
Hotel Metropole — Trafalgar Square — Sketch Map of Lon- 
don — Fred's Map of London — London — Whitehall, Horse 
Guards — Houses of Parliament and the Thames — Clock 
Tower — Westminster Hall — Parliament Square — The 
Strand — Hansom Cab — New Law Courts — Temple Bar — 
Old Curiosity Shop. 

IX. FROM TEMPLE BAR ROUND TO CHARING CROSS 124 
Fleet Street — St. Paul's — Choir — The Monument — Ludgate 
Circus — Bank of England — Royal Exchange — Mansion 
House — Cheapside — Seven Dials — Holborn Street — Oxford 
Street. 

X. WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE PARLIAMENT 

HOUSES 141 

English Schools — Front View of the Abbey — The Choir — 
Poets' Corner — Coronation Chair — Chapel of Henry VII. — 
Westminster Hall — House of Commons — House of Lords. 

XI. AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 156 

St James's Park — Buckingham Palace — Hyde Park — On the 
Serpentine — Albert Memorial — Albert Hall — Kensington 
Museum — The Tyburn Tree — Zoological Gardens — Regent 
Street — Richmond Hill — Fred's Letter. 

XII. TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 167 

Victoria or Thames Embankment — Gardens — Tower — Trai- 
tor's Gate — Tower Bridge — People's Palace — English Char- 
acteristics. 

XIII. THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND BY CAR- 
RIAGE 178 

Windsor Castle — The Long Walk — Quadrangle, Eton College 

— The Round Tower — St. George's Chapel — The Throne Room 

— Stoke Pogis — Gray — Oxford — Christ Church — The Mar- 
tyrs' Memorial — Oxford, Cambridge. 



CONTENTS vii 

Chapter Page 

XIV. CLASSIC GROUND 195 

Blenheim Park — Stratf ord-on-Avon — Stratford Church — 
Memorial Window — New Place — Anne Hathaway' s Cot- 
tage. 

XV. IN THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND .... 203 
Warwick Castle — Kenilworth Castle — Coventry — Rugby 

— Dr. Arnold's Home — Black Country — Vale of Cromford 

— On the Moors. 

XVI. THE ENGLISH LAKES 215 

Scene at Grange — Furness Abbey — English Lake Dis- 
trict — Lake Country — Windermere — Grasmere — Words- 
worth's Grave — Seat at Eydal Water — Rydal Mount — 
Derwentwater — Greta Hall — TJUswater. 

XVII. INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 234 

Preston — Manchester — Piccadilly — Ship Canal — Liver- 
pool — Lord Street — Landing-Stage — Alexander Dock — 
Commercial City — Enclosed Dock — Chester Cathedral — 
Eaton Hall — Hawarden ~ Birmingham. 

XVIII. TO LAND'S END THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENG- 
LAND 251 

Southern Part of England — Hampshire County — Winches- 
ter — Cathedral — Portsmouth Harbor — Bournemouth — 
Stonehenge — Invalid's Walk — Exeter — Teignmouth — 
Tavistock — Cornwall — Old Lizard Head — St. Michael's 
Mount — Penzance — Land's End — Brighton. 

XIX. NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 269 

Trondhjem — Route in Norway, etc. — North Cape — Ham- 
merfest — Tromsoe — Fish Drying — The Laplander — A 
Lapp Boy — A Laplander's Home — A Group of Lapp Boys — 
Norwegian Carriages — Flatbread — Farm Buildings — 
Farm Work. 

XX. NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 286 

Geiranger Fiord — Seven Sisters — Bergen — Naersfiord — 
Market — Norwegian Wedding — Eingdalf os — University. 

XXI. DENMARK AND SWEDEN 297 

Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen Museum — The Bourse — Church 
of Our Saviour — Sweden — Gotha Canal — TJpsala — Stock- 
holm — Mines. 



viii CONTENTS 

Chapter Page 

XXII. RUSSIA . 309 

The Government — Nihilists — Czar of Russia — Kronstadt 

— Neva Eiver — St. Petersburg — Drinking Tea — St. Isaac 
Cathedral — The Alexander Column — Drosky — Coachman 

— Store — Sleigh — Troyka — Winter Palace — Hermitage. 

XXIII. MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 325 

A Russian Village — Moujik — The Kremlin — St. Basil's 
Church — Redeemer Gate — View from the Kremlin — The 
Great Bell — Treasury — Cossack — Nijni-Novgorod — 
Wolves. 




N^ORTHERN EUROPE 



CHAPTER 1 

A EUROPEAN TOUR 

" I HAVE a cleliglitful surprise for you," said Mr. Cartmell 
one evening in early April, as the family gathered around 
the pleasant wood fire in the library, which the belated spring 
made extremely agreeable. 

" What is it, papa ? " chorused the children. 

Mrs. Cartmell smiled brightly. 

" I know ! I know ! " cried Florence ; " you are going to 
take us all to Europe." 

" You are a witch indeed ! " laughed Mr. Cartmell. " You 
find out all my secrets. I see that I may as well tell you at 
once. You are right. I have arranged for an extensive 
European tour, and we shall leave New York in May. Mamma 
must set about her preparations at once. As for you chil- 
dren, I shall expect an immense amount of studying for the 

1 



2 KORTHERN EUROPE 

next few weeks. Miss Gray will have her hands full, I am 
sure." 

From this time on everything was bustle in the Cartmell 
home. As this was to be longest journey yet undertaken by 



a 



THE BRITISH ISLES 







General Route in the British Isles. 



the family, there were countless arrangements to be made 
before leaving. 

Finally everything was in order, even to the careful pack- 



A EUROPEAN TOUR 8 

ing of the camera; and on a beautiful day in late Ma}', the 
family found themselves on the docks in New York, ready for 
sailing. 

Mr. Cartmell had taken passage on one of the swiftest 
Atlantic liners to Liverpool, in order that the children might 
become familiar with the latest remarkable feats accom- 
plished in steamship architecture and equipment. As the 
giant craft lay alongside the dock, it afforded a good oppor- 
tunity to compare her length with objects on shore. Her 
exact measurement was 620 feet, nearly an eighth of a mile. 

As the sailiiig-liour approached, the scene on the dock 
became more and more animated. Heavy drays loaded with 




Tug under steam. 



merchandise hurried to discharge at the different gangways, 
where huge cranes were rapidly swinging the last of the 
cargo on board. Mail-wagons, with hundreds of sacks of Euro- 
pean mail-matter, carriages filled with travellers and weighted 



4 NORTHERN EUROPE 

with trunks, busy truckmen threading their way through the 
crowds, fruit and flower venders calling their wares, the gay 
good-bys and the sad partings of friends, all contributed to 
make up a novel and interesting picture. 

At last the warning cry " All ashore ! " and the deafening 
noise of the whistle, bade every one not ocean bound leave the 
ship. The great hawsers were slipped ; and the ship, assisted 
by two tugboats, turned her prow seaward. 

On the way down New York Harbor, the party noted the 
colossal statue of Liberty, the quarantine station, the quaint 
little fort on Governor's Island, and other points of interest. 

Mr. Cartmell called attention to the low, sandy shores of 
the bay, curving out from the New Jersey side into the point 
called Sandy Hook, the outermost land of the harbor. 

At Sandy Hook the pilot, whom every steamer must take 
down the harbor, left the ship, and the voyage was really 
begun. 

Although the children desired to stay on deck till land 
entirely faded from view, Mrs. Cartmell, as a more experi- 
enced ocean traveller, insisted that their staterooms should at 
once be arranged for the voyage. As there were several hun- 
dred passengers on board, it was desirable to be settled as 
soon as possible. Before an hour had elapsed, the wisdom of 
this suggestion was apparent. Papa meanwhile had attended 
to the seats at table, and the bringing out of the deck-chairs 
and warm rugs. 

The family were glad to find their rooms conveniently near 
the main stairway. The beautiful decorations, and the many 
arrangements for the travellers' comfort, were a pleasurable 
surprise. The long corridors, spacious saloons, and broad 
staircases, with the troops of white-coated waiters, made it 
difficult to realize that so great a hotel establishment could 
really be afloat on an ocean voyage. By the advice of Mrs. 
Cartmell, no attempt was made to explore the ship till the 



6 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



next day. The evening, though a beautiful one, saw but half 
the party on the deck. The long swell of the ocean, and the 
jar of the machinery, caused the majority of the passengers to 
retire to their staterooms early. 




Dining-room, Lucania. 

The next morning dawned bright and clear, with the 
sea smooth, and the air light and cool. Notwithstanding the 
good weather, but a small proportion of the passengers ap- 
peared for breakfast in the dining-room, and the row of chairs 
on the decks showed many vacancies. Mrs. Cartmell did not 
feel well enough to leave her stateroom, and all were more or 
less affected by the motion ; but Mr. Cartmell was urgent for 
fresh air, and finally succeeded in establishing Florence and 
Nellie in their chairs on deck. Tucked up snugly in shawls 
and rugs, they soon felt decidedly better. 

" Papa, Avhat causes seasickness ? " queried Florence, as 
she rearranged her pillows. 



A EUROPEAN TOUR 7 

''There are many reasons given," returned Mr. Cartmell. 
'' It is my theory that the trouble comes from the eye and 
the brain. The eye is strained by tlie unsteadiness of objects, 
and the brain fatigued. The ensuing dizziness produces nau- 
sea. However, do not dwell on your feelings too much. 
You will soon be all right. You will see plenty of things to 
interest you." 

The noon hour brought several novel incidents, besides the 
cheering cups of hot bouillon carried about by the deck 
steward. The first was the throwing of the log to ascertain 
the speed of the ship. George and Fred had made friends 
with one of the officers, who kindly explained the working of 
the device. 



Ancient Log. 

" The log itself is, as you see, a small triangular piece 
of wood five or six inches wide. One edge is curved and 
weighted with lead to keep the log iipright in the water. It 
hangs square by two cords knotted into holes, the ends 
fastened to the log-line. When the log is used, a man holds 
the reel over his head, and throws the chip well clear of the 
wake of the ship. An officer with a sand-glass " turns " 
at the right moment, and when the sand has run out, calls 
''stop." By the number of knots in the log-line which have 
run out, the speed of the ship is estimated. The word knot 
is used to designate a nautical mile, which is somewhat 
longer than the ordinary mile, being about 6,080 feet." 

" This is a very ancient device, is it not ? " asked Mr, 
Cartmell, who had been listening to the officer's words. 



8 NORTHERN EUROPE 

^' Yes ; the earliest mariners used something of the kind. 
Every ship, however, carries one or more of the modern logs. 
One of these is a long brass cylinder with registering dials, 
fastened to the rail of the ship. The line remains overboard 
for twelve or twenty-four hours. It has small screw flanges 
at the end, and these keep the line twisting and pulling at 
the dials. The electric towing-log is also one of the modern 
inventions." 

'' How many knots an hour does this ship make ? " 

"As you know, perhaps, this is one of the fastest ships 

ever built. We expect 21 knots an hour of her in good 

weather. The first Atlantic steamer made only 8. If you 

and your sons Avould like to see tlie machinery which pro- 




Modern Log. 



duces this great speed, I shall be happy to take you about 
to-morrow morning." 

Mr. Cartmell thanked the officer, and said they would be 
only too happy to accept. 

Meanwhile, from their comfortable chairs, the girls had 
been watching a seaman take the temperature of the Avater. 
A canvas bucket of water was drawn up over the side, and a 
thermometer plunged into it, and the result reported to an 
officer. 

On the bridge, high above the forward deck, they saw the 
captain and first officer busily engaged in taking an observa- 
tion, to ascertain the ship's position. It was announced that 
the result of the reckoning would be posted in the main 
saloon at one o'clock. 



A EUROPEAN TOUR 9 

"It seems very mysterious to me," said Florence to Miss 
Gray, who had come up on declc. " I don't see how they can 
ever tell where we are with those little telescope things." 

" Well, you may be sure they can," said Miss Gray, look- 
ing upward at the bridge. " The practical demonstrations of 
the science of navigation are always impressive to a lands- 
man. The modern sextants, quadrants, chronometers, and 
the many other things which go to the equipment of a ship 
like this, are instruments of extreme accurac}^ There is no 
haphazard sailing for the ship of to-day. She is expected 
to make her voyages with safety and despatch, and she must 
make them on time. The voyages of this ship from 'New 
York to Liverpool seldom vary from the scheduled time of 
about six days." 

" The compass is a very old instrument, I know," said 
Florence. ''Are the new ones very different from the old ? " 

"As it was many centuries ago, the compass is still the 
chief reliance of the sailor, and is practically unaltered since 
its invention in 1307. But come, let us take a walk around 
the deck. T am sure you will feel better. AVe can soon walk 
a mile." 

Coming from the dining-saloon after luncheon the next 
day, every one was much surprised to find the weather quite 
changed. The bright sunshine had vanished, and a cold, gray 
mist shut in the ship. It was difficult to see from one end of 
the ship to the other. The fog-whistle began to send forth its 
dreary tones every few minutes. 

" I suppose we must have reached the Newfoundland 
Banks, have we not ? " asked George of a fellow-passenger 
who was walking i;p and down the deck. " The chart in the 
saloon shows that we have run 936 miles." 

"Yes, these are the Banks," said the gentleman, pulling 
up the collar of his mackintosh, " There are always rain and 
fog in this locality." 



10 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" It must be very dangerous." 

'•Of course the greatest danger is from collision. Every 
care, however, is taken, and the whistle is kept constantly 
going. The lookouts in the bow have been doubled, as you 
see ; and there are two men in that queer little arrangement 
called the ' crow's nest ' on the foremast. Some fogs lie low 



SWSUillM® TlfiAgK' (gEJiHair.. 




on the water, and it often happens that the men in the crow's 
nest can see the masts of ships or steamer-funnels or lights 
directly over the fog." 

" What is the reason for the constant fogs on these 
banks ? " asked George, seeing that his companion was ready 
to give information. 



A EUROPEAN TOUR 



11 



"That is an interesting question. To be brief, tlie New- 
foundland fogs are caused by the meeting of the Arctic cur- 
rent called the ' Cold Wall/ which sweeps downward from 
the north, and the warm current of the Gulf Stream, which 
comes upward from the Gulf of Mexico. The Gulf Stream 
rapidly parts with its heat, causing vapor to rise. You have 



(gWMiil^® "ffl^iXeiK (giaA^lf. 




D 1 STANCES > 

HOM EWARD. 

from Sandi/ Honk to C'.Toslllot \ 
JOSSMiles.thenre toFaslnct 
6y Great Circle J730JHiies. 
Total saiSMiles. 



probably seen the same thing on a smaller scale on the shore 
in summer, when a cold day follows a season of heat, and the 
water is warmer than the air." 

" These ocean currents are very curious/' said George. 

" Yes, and of far-reaching effect. Take the Gulf Stream, 
for instance. It originates from the great eddy in the Atlan- 



12 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



tic, such as all oceans have, and starts northward from the 
Gulf of Mexico, a sun-heated river, deep and strong, flowing 
six miles an hour. By the time it reaches the island of Nan- 
tucket it has spread out widely, and has slackened to three 
miles an hour. Here we find it battling with the icy Arctic 




Ship's Compass. 



water ; and from here it passes over to the British Islands, to 
give them a far milder climate than would be their lot with- 
out it." 

^' I suppose this ' Cold Wall ' is the current that brings 
down the icebergs into the Atlantic." 

"Precisely. Icebergs, as you know, are gigantic pieces 
broken off from the Arctic glaciers when they run down into 
the sea. The force of the waves is constantly breaking off 
these great pieces of ice, which are sometimes carried far to 
the south. These bergs show only one-eighth of their bulk 
above the water. The lower parts are often weighted with 
large stones and quantities of gravel. As the berg melts, this 
is dropped to the bottom of the sea. It is supposed that these 
banks were formed in this way." 



A EUROPEAN TOUR 



13 



" Shall we see any icebergs on this voyage ? " 
" I scarcely think so. It is too late in the season. I have 
seen several of them when crossing in the month of April. 
Sometimes they float far south, but most of them ground in 
the shallow water of the Banks and Newfoundland shore. If 
Newfoundland and Nova Scotia should disappear, so that 
the shore from Greenland to Massachusetts would be nearly 





Fishing- Schooner. 



straight, we should have plenty of icebergs in Boston Harbor 
and an almost Arctic climate." 

At this point came a shout from the lookouts in the bow, 
and every one rushed forward to see what wias the matter. 
The ship was now at half speed. The hoarse voice of the 
\Vhistle seemed to meet a faint echo from out of the fog. A 



14 NORTHERN EUROPE 

moment more and the shadowy outline of a fishing-schooner 
was seen, only to be again lost in the mist. 

" That was a ' near thing ! ' " said George's companion. 
" These Banks fishermen have a dangerous calling, and many 
a ship has been lost here. The business still goes on, how- 
ever ; and the great catch of codfish in this locality, which 
largely supplies the American market, shows no signs of 
giving out." 



CHAPTER II 

CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 

Meanwhile Mr. Cartmell had joined mamma, Miss Gray, 
and the girls, who were comfortably ensconced m one of the 
spacions drawing-rooms indoors. A cheery coal-fire, such an 
unusual luxury on shipboard, made one forget both illness 




One Corner of the Drawing-Room. 

and bad weather. Some of the passengers were reading, 
some writing, others playing games or doing fancy-work. 

" It is difficult to realize that we are at sea, is it not ? " 
said Mr. Cartmell. ^'- 1 have just been into the library, which 
I find well stocked with standard books. Here is something 

15 



16 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



relating to Newfoundland, which Miss Gray will read to you ; 
it is about the first Atlantic cable." 

" When was the cable laid, papa ? " asked Nellie. 
" The first cable was laid, and messages transmitted, in 
1857. It then ceased to work. A second cable was laid 
in 1866, between Cape Clear, Ireland, and Heart's Content, 
Newfoundland, about 2,500 miles. It was a great step m 
our progress as a nation. Since then there have been several 
cables laid. The French cable runs from Brest to St. Pierre, a 

small island near Newfound- 
land. But you will like to 
read about it yourself." 

The weather continuing 
cold and unpleasant, the 
Cartmell party went early 
to their rooms for the night; 
but sleep seemed impossible 
with the incessant noise of 
the fog-whistle. At ten 
o'clock next morning Mr. 
Cartmell, George, and Fred 
were all ready for their ex- 
ploring-trip with the officer 
who had previously extended 
an invitation. 

After a hasty inspection 
of the kitchens, pantries, 
etc., and of the accommo- 
dations for the second-class 
and the steerage passengers, 
their guide ushered them down several iron staircases to the 
engine-rooms. Here they saw the bewildering mass of com- 
plicated and powerful machinery which was forcing the great 
ship through the ocean at almost railroad speed. 




Twin Screws. 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 



17 



"Here is one of the engineers," said their conductor to 
Mr. Cartmell. " He will be glad to explain the workings of 
the machinery." 




Triple-Expansion Engine. 

"We shall be greatly indebted to him, I am sure," re- 
turned Mr. Cartmell. "1 am particularly anxious for these 



18 NORTHERN EUROPE 

boys to see and appreciate the triumphs of modern steamship 
mechanism. To me it is marvellous." 

" In the first place, sir," said the engineer, as he wiped a 
bit of the glistening brass-work, '-'this is a 'twin-screw ' ship ; 
that is, it has two shafts and two propellers instead of one. 
Should one shaft break, the other will carry the ship along. 
Steam is generated in 12 boilers, each about 18 feet in diame- 
ter and 17 feet long. 

"There are 102 furnaces. The main boilers will bear a 
pressure of 165 pounds to the square inch, and some of the 
plates are 20 feet long. Each set of boilers has a funnel. 
The top of the funnels is 130 feet from the bottom of the ship. 

" The coal-bunkers and the boilers are in water-tight bulk- 
heads, completely shut off from the rest of the hull. Here we 
have the great- condenser and the pumps for lifting the water. 
The engines are what are known as 'triple-expansion,' and 
produce something over 30,000 horse-power. We use over 
300 tons of coal a day." 

" How do you obtain your fresh water ? " asked Mr. Cart- 
mell. 

" From these four great evaporators, which are capable of 
producing 30 tons of fresh water a day." 

" There are also engines for the electric lighting, I sup- 
pose ? " 

"Yes; we supply power for 1,350 lights, and the current is 
distributed through the ship by 50 miles of wire. We have 
machinery for refrigerating purposes also, and we even sup- 
ply power to drive the hair-brushes in the barber shop," said 
the engineer, smiling. " Other engines hoist the cargo in and 
out, and control the rudder, which in ships of this size is en- 
tirely under water." 

Seeing their interest, the engineer explained some of the 
machinery in detail ; and two interesting and profitable hours 
were spent. 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 19 

The weather remained unfavorable for the noon-time ob- 
servation ; but at one o'clock the chart was posted as usual in 
the saloon, with a run marked off of 517 miles. It was of 
little use to consult watches and clocks, as an hour was 
gained every day by the passage eastward. Many of the 
passengers kept their home time as a matter of interest. 

Dui'ing the afternoon several porpoises and small whales 
Avere noticed, their black backs showing for a few seconds 
as they rose to the surface of the water. Mr. Cartmell ex- 
plained that these whales were not the sperm or right whales, 
Avhich are hunted for oil and whalebones. Quantities of sea- 
gulls were also to be seen in the wake of the ship, and the 
passengers amused themselves by throwing pieces of biscuit 
to them. They appeared to have the most voracious appe- 
tites. It Avas strange to see these birds so many hundred 
miles from land following with no apparent fatigue the rap- 
idly moving ship. 

Miss Gray had found some interesting chapters on the 
North Atlantic Ocean in the book Mr. Cartmell had selected, 
and was able to give all kinds of information on this sub- 
ject in answer to the questions of the girls. "How deep is 
the deepest part of the Atlantic ? " asked Florence, as they 
paced up and down the deck. 

'' It varies very much. The bed of the ocean presents 
the same irregularities as the land. I believe the greatest 
depth found in the North Atlantic by the exploring-ship 
Challenger was 3,875 fathoms, or over 4 miles. The average 
depth is about 2,000 fa,thoms. There are high peaks, like 
the Azores Islands, and deep valleys or depressions. The 
Atlaifitic cables are laid over a comparatively level surface, 
called the ' telegraphic plateau.' A peculiarity of the Atlan- 
tic Ocean is the absence of coral islands so abundant in the 
Pacific. The Bermuda Islands are the only islands of coral 
formation in the Atlantic." 



20 NORTHERN EUROPE 

'' What gives the color to the sea ? " questioned Nellie, 
looking far out over the dark green billows crested with 
foam. 

" Scientists say it is due to different animalculae, to the 
color of the soil, the color of the sky, and to different marine 
vegetables ; but it is a vexed question, as is also that of the 
saltness of the sea. The saltness Of the ocean is very uni- 
form ; but it is always less salt in the neighborhood of ice, 
and for some reason the southern ocean is more salt than the 
northern. The most civilized nations of the world are found 
on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, and it is the great com- 
mercial highway of the world. Its coasts are better charted, 
better provided with beacons, and its winds and currents bet- 
ter known, that those of any other ocean." 

That evening the passengers who remained out on deck 
were treated to a beautiful sight in the brilliant display of 
phosphorescence which surrounded the ship. Indeed, she 
seemed to be ploughing her way through a sea of liquid silver. 
A knotted rope trailed overboard produced a beautiful ap- 
pearance ; and the surging, boiling wake looked like a fairy 
river of silver. It was difficult to realize that this beau- 
tiful spectacle was caused by covintless masses of minute 
animals. 

The fourth day brought a cloudless sky and brilliant sun- 
shine in the mid- Atlantic. The Cartmell party were on deck 
early enough to see a boat-drill and a fire-drill, which the offi- 
cer may call at any time, and which keep the men alert and 
active in case of an emergency. There were twenty large life- 
boats, ten on each side. These could be all launched simul- 
taneously if required. 

Shortly after breakfast, the captain, who had been con- 
versing with the Cartmell party at table, invited them up on 
the bridge to inspect the wheel-house. From this lofty point 
they obtained a fine view of the whole ship. On the bridge 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 



21 



was a double row of large brass-bound instruments, looking 
like clocks, set on a series of heavy posts. These were the 
instruments for directing the complete staff of seamen form- 
ing the watch of the ship, a telegraph for communicating 
with the engine-rooms, and for replies to signify compliance 
with orders. There were also telegraphs to the deck machin- 




Wheel-House. 



erj, warping-capstans, windlass, etc., so that when the ship 
was in motion, the men in all the different departments were 
under the direct control of the commander on the bridge. An 
instrument called a telemotor in the hands of two seamen 
operated the steering-gear at the after end of the ship. 

The captain explained that, as the ship was built with the 
understanding with the British Government that she should 
be used as a cruiser in case of war, certain points were espe- 
cially looked after in her construction. The most important 
of these was the steering-gear, w^hich is all placed below the 
water-line. The bulk of this gear was of cast steel, and 



99 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



weighed 45 tons. The rudder, worked by twin engines, could 
turn the ship in her own length. 

" And these two small towers,'" asked Mr. Cartmell, " what 
are they ? " 

"That is something very new in ships," replied the cap- 
tain. " Those are for the search-lights, one of tlie most 
serviceable appliances for navigation. These lights have pro- 
jectors 16 inclies in diameter, and each produces a light equal 
to 2,000 candle-power. The lights are especially useful on 
foggy nights, and when entering a harbor in the dark. By 
flashing them along the siirface of the water, it is an easy 

matter to find the buoys." 

" How many men do you 
carry for a crew, Captain ? " 
" All told, they number 
about 425 men. They are 
divided into three groups, 
— the sailing, engineers', 
and stewards' departments. 
You can see that these, with 
the several hundred passen- 
gers, are a good many for 
whom to cook," said the 
captain, smiling. 

"I don't see how it is 
possible to keep so much 
food in good condition," said 

Search-Light t-,, 

1 lorence. 
'•' It could not be done if it were not for our great refri- 
gerating-rooms. I cannot begin to tell you of the immense 
amount of stores the head steward lays in for a voyage ; but I 
know that he usually starts a trip with about 20,000 pounds 
of beef, 10,000 pounds of mutton, 1,500 chickens, some 30 tons 
of potatoes, and 18,000 eggs." 




CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 23 

"■ The mail-matter is no small item of your cargo, I sup- 
pose," said Mr. Cartmell. 

*' It seems to increase every month. We average about 
two thousand large sacks, and it often requires two trains 
between Holyhead and London to convey them." 

"■ Those look like pretty big anchors," said Nellie, looking 
out towards the bow, where two large anchors were secured. 

^' They are, indeed. They are the heaviest ever cast, and 




Use of Search-Light 



weigh ten tons each. But I must leave you now, and go down 
to my chart-room." 

Mr. Cartmell thanked the captain for his courtesy in ex- 
plaining all these interesting matters, and as the time, four 
bells, or ten o'clock, rang out, suggested that they all go down 
for a game of shuffle-board on deck, a favorite amusement with 
the j)assengers. 

" I shall never understand those bells," said Florence, " and 
that way of keeping time." 

" Yes, you will," said Fred. " I can remember it now per- 
fectly. You see, they divide the twenty-four hours into three 



24 NORTHERN EUROPE 

parts, in order to arrange the watches of the men to best 
advantage. At eight o'clock, twelve o'clock, and four o'clock, 
they strike eight bells ; then begin again with the half hour, 

— one, for half-past eight; two for nine, etc. It is very easy. 
We have breakfast at one bell, half-past eight ; luncheon at 
three bells, half-past one ; and dinner at five bells, half-past 
six." 

A game of shuffle-board occupied the rest of the morning. 
At one o'clock the ship's run was found to have been 495 
miles, and the track-chart showed the coast of Ireland quite 
near at hand. 

During the afternoon a ship of the same line on her voyage 
out was sighted. Signals were displayed on both ships. A 
second' steamer was seen a little later. This proved to be, not 
a regular Atlantic liner, but a freighter, or "tramp" steamer, 

— a ship which goes from port to port as a cargo may be 
obtained. 

" Uow can sailors tell so easily the different lines of ships, 
papa ? " asked Nellie. 

" With steamers it is generally by the color of their smoke- 
stacks. Some steamers have their funnels red Avith black 
bands, some cream color with white bands, etc. Moreover, a 
captain usually knows at about what time he is likely to meet 
certain steamers. To avoid collision, the ships of this line 
take a northerly route going east and a southerly route going 
towards America. Tliis is Avhy we have not seen more 
steamers. But do you realize how nearly our voyage is over ? 
By to-morrow afternoon we shall see land, I expect ; and if all 
goes well, we shall sleep in Ireland to-morrow night." 

" What is the first land we shall see ? " asked Florence, gaz- 
ing earnestly out over the ocean. 

" The lighthouse on the Fastnet rocks," replied her father. 
" It is a picturesque stack of rocks off the coast of Kerry in 
Ireland. From Fastnet it does not take long to run up into 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 



25 



Queenstown Harbor, where we shall land. The arrival of the 
ship is cabled from Fastnet, both to New York and Liverpool." 

'' It is a wonderful thing to cross the ocean in five days and 
a half," said Mrs. Cartmell, who had joined them. " I believe 
the Great Western, the first vessel to cross, in 1838, occupied 
fifteen days in the passage, did she not ? " 

" Yes ; and it was a great day when she entered New York 
Harbor. She was a paddle-wheel ship of 236 feet length and 
1,340 tons, and her horse-power was only 450. As compared 
with this ship, whose horse-power is said to be about 30,000, 
she was small indeed." 

From the breakfast-hour next morning all was excitement 
to catch the first glimpse of land. Every one expecting to 
land at Queenstown was also busy in packing up for shore. 
The one-o'clock bulletin showed a run of 496 miles. To a 




Queenstown, Ireland, 



trained observer of the ocean everything showed that the land 
was near. The temperature had grown perceptibly warmer, 
and the sea much smoother. 

It was about five o'clock in the afternoon when the cry 
came down from the lookout in the ''crow's nest," "Land 



26 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



ho ! On the port bow ! " But what the eagle-eyed seaman 
coukl see was not visible to landsmen for some time yet. 
At last the tiny speck on the horizon grew into a rocky islet 
crowned by a picturesque lighthouse. A while longer, and in 
the last rays of the setting sun, which shed a rich pink glow 
over the ocean, the beautiful green shores of Ireland drew 
close at hand, and the voyage across the Atlantic was ended. 
Not only the Cartmells, but many other passengers, left the 
great steamer at Queenstown for a tour through the Emerald 





Queenstown Harbor. 



Me, " home of the saints." The ocean steamer did not enter 
the harbor, but was met outside by a small transport steamer 
called the 'lender," which conveyed both passengers and 
immense quantities of mail to the Queenstown dock, or 
" landing." 

" Does all that mail go to Ireland ? " Florence asked. 

"No," replied Miss Gray; "all the mail is removed here, 
because by shipping it by the railroad to Dublin, and across 
to England by a fast steamer, and then from Holyhead to 



CROSSING THP: ATLANTIC 



27 



London by a fast train, this mail will reach the latter city 
a few hours sooner than by going to Liverpool in our steamer, 
and from there to London." 

At the dock onr friends found many young girls, men, and 



m^^\^'^M 




The Landing at Queenstown. 



women dressed for a long voyage, evidently ready to leave in 
a short time on some ocean steamer. Upon inquiry George, 
learned that these poor people were about to sail on a steam- 
ship for America. They made up the ordinary group of 
emigrants, such as Ireland sends oiit every few weeks to the 
United States, Australia, or Canada. 

" Did you know," asked Mr. Cartmell, " that so many per- 
sons leave this beautiful island that the population is decreas- 
ing from year to year, rather than increasing ? In 1841 
Ireland had 8,000,000 people, now it has about 5,000,000." 

Beggars and peddlers soon surrounded them, and nearly 



28 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



drove them wild with their persistent entreaties. Breaking 
away from these, Mr. Cartmell procured a carriage, and 
drove for a short time. He and his family learned that 
the town stands principally upon a green island facing the 
coast. Its white houses are mostly built in terraces upon 
the slope of the hill. In some places, as on the street called 




The Esplanade, Queenstown. 



"The Esplanade," the view is quite extensive. It was for- 
merly only the Cove of Cork. It received its present name 
when Queen Victoria visited the place in 1849. 



CHAPTER Hi 

THROUGH IRELAND 

In the forenoon of the next day Mr. Cartmell took his 
family to Cork, going up the river Lee in a small steamer. 
In this pleasant trip they saw on the banks many small-sized 
bathing and fishing villages. The captain of the boat pointed 
out in one of these small villages the ruins of a castle built 




Cork Harbor, showing Queenstown on an Island. 

by a woman two hundred years ago — " for one penny." Her 
husband went away on business for a long voyage. She 
wished to surprise him on his return ; so she opened several 
stores, and paid the men who worked for her husband in 
goods, upon which she made a handsome profit. The profit on 
these goods covered the cost of the castle except one penny; 
hence the castle was always called " Penny Castle." 

29 



so 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



About six miles before reaching Cork they passed through 
a large inlaud sea. In this vicinity they noticed many line 
suburbs with white villas and green lawns. 

In the afternoon the Cartmells drove about Cork. They 
admired its commodious harbor on the river Lee, the hills 
and dales about the city, the abundance of trees, and the vel- 




Seaside Village near Cork. 



vety green grass everywhere. Miss Gray thought the city 
justified in calling itself "The Beautiful City." 

" Did you know," asked Mr. Cartmell, " that the name of 
this city is not taken from the name of a stopper in a bottle, 
but from the Irish word ' Corrock,' the old name of the 
swamp on which a part of the city now stands ? " 

Leaving the carriage, the children and Miss Gray climbed 
a steep ascent called " The Sunday Well," from which they 
saw below them a magnificent view of the lovely river and 
the varied landscape for miles around. 

After the children returned to the carriage, the party drove 
first to the Shandon church, of which the poet sang, — 



THROUGH IRELAND 



31 



"The bells of Shandon 
They sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters 
Of the river Lee," 

and then over the bridge at the end of St. Patrick's Street, 
near which they saw the bronze statue of Father Mathew, 
"The Apostle of Temperance." 

"I have," said Mr. Cartmell, ''very great respect for that 
man. He began to travel in this island in 1838, preaching 
temperance, and forming total-abstinence societies, and ask- 
ing the people to take the pledge. In the short space of two 
and a half years he prevailed npon two and a half million 
persons to sign the pledge, and the country was wonderfully 
changed." 




Irish Jaunting-Car, 



" Papa, when can we ride in a jaunting-car ? " little NeUie 
suddenly inquired. 

" This very forenoon," replied her father. 
" Where can we go ? " 
" Anywhere you like." 



32 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Let us go, then," said Mrs. Cartmell, " to the Groves of 
Blarney, which — 

" ' Look so charming, 
Down by the purlings 
Of sweet, silent brooks. 
Being banked with posies 
That spontaneous grow there, 
Planted in order. 
In the rocky nooks.' " 

When this Irish carriage drove up, the children saw that it 
was a peculiar two-wheeled affair, in which the seats face the 

outer side of the vehi- 
cle, so that the people 
, . , ,,y- ,. . „ sit back to back. The 

disadvantage of the 
arrangement is that 
the rider sees so little 
on the opposite side. 
They were all de- 
lighted with the beau- 
tiful appearance of the 
ground s around the 
castle. A small river 
flowed by, trees afford- 
ed shade, and the 
birds sang sweetly. 
" For what is this castle noted, Miss Gray ? " Florence 
asked. 

'' It contains the famous Blarney stone, which, if you kiss, 
is said to confer upon you all the gifts of eloquence and 
persuasion." 

'■' Let us find it at once," said George. 
When they went into the castle, and asked the guide 
where the wonderful stone was, he pointed out a stone in the 




Blarney Castle, near Cork. 



THROUGH IRELAND 



33 




Route in Ireland. 



34 



XORTHERN EUROPE 



outer wall, to which a person must be lowered by means of 
ropes. 

George expressed his disappointment, whereupon the 
guide showed him a substitute stone inside, within easy reach. 

Mrs. Cartmell told him she thought one stone was just as 
beautiful as the other. 

Mr. Cartmell selected, as the best route from Cork to 
Killarney, what is called "the southern route." This led them 
through Kinsale, noted for its fisheries, up the valley of the 
Bandon, well-wooded and fertile, and through the little port 
of Bantry. 

After passing through another sea-coast town, the route 




Gap of Dunloe, Killarney. 



rose to the height of 2,000 feet. The rain fell, and then sud- 
denly the clouds lifted, and the sun came out, revealing a 
wonderful picture of mountain-chains and numerous lakes^ 



THROUGH IRELAND 



35 



which gleamed in the sun like molten silver. From the sides 
of the hills, streams swollen by the rain rushed down through 
valleys and deep ravines, on their way to the Atlantic. Now 
turning directly northward, away from the coast, the Cart- 



E^^SS^', ' 




Eagle's Nest, Lakes of Killarney, 

mells soon reached Windy Gap, from which can be seen the 
Killarney mountains ; behind these were hidden the lakes. 

When they reached a fine forest, after several hours' ride, 
Nellie inquired, " Shall w^e soon see the lakes, papa ? " 

" Yes ; I think we shall see them very soon." 

A sudden turn in the road revealed the three Lakes of 
Killarney far below them. In view of this great loveliness, 
the party descended to the town of Killarney, where they 
spent the night. 

In the morning of the next day they rode for several 



36 NORTHERN EUROPE 

miles beside the lower of the three celebrated lakes, and then 
through the Gap of Dunloe, a romantic cut between high and 
steep mountains on each side. The driver told them that one 
of these mountains was called the Purple Mountain, from the 
mantle of heather which covers it from base to summit. He 
pointed out a small river flowing through a lake, in which, he 
said, " St. Patrick drowned the last snake found in Ireland." 
AVhen they reached the highest point of this gap, they had a 
fine view, in one direction, of the Kenmore Mountains, which 




Middle Lake, Killarney. 

they had crossed the day before, while to the right lay the 
Black Valley, dry, lonely, and forbidding. 

"In this valley," said the driver, "are brewed all the 
storms of the country." 

After a sudden turn in the road, Nellie cried out, " See ! " 
And there lay before them the three lakes, shut in between 
high mountains, each lake dotted with many islands clad with 
trees, and looking like so many emeralds set in silver. 



THROUGH IRELAND 



37 



When they reached the Upper Lake, the carriage was 
exchanged for a large boat, and the trip upon this beautiful 
body of water began. The first lake was very long and nar- 
row, but so indented that a stranger could with difficulty find 
his Avay from one end to the other. In one place rose a 
pyramid-like mountain, two thousand feet high, covered with 
hollies, juniper, and arbutus. The granite summit was bare, 
and the boatman told the boys it was a good place for the 
golden eagles to make their eyries ; hence the name of the 
mountain was " Eagle's ISTest." Then he told about the won- 
derful echo there, and exhibited its powers. 

He played a few notes upon a cornet, and these were 
repeated in a variety of ways over and over. He directed 
a cannon to be fired ; and the sound was multiplied till it 
seemed as if a thousand cannons were discharged at once, 
then in rapid succession, and then at irregular times and 
places. 

This lake was full 
of islands. Pred asked 
the boatman how many 
there were ; and he re- 
plied, "Kobody ever 
succeeded in counting 
them." 

Entering the Mid- 
dle Lake by passing 
under a bridge where 
the current was very 
swift, they stopped for 

a short rest at a little island, and were surprised to find that 
here free entertainment was hospitably provided for all trav- 
ellers. They found that this lake was not nearly as lovely as 
the upper one. 

Mr. Cartmell said, "Thackeray was once asked which of 




Forester's Cottage on Island in Middle Lake. 



38 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



these lakes was the most beautiful, and he replied, ' The finest 
is the one on which you find yourself.' " 

Passing into the Lower Lake, they were delighted to see 
so many large and very lovely islands. The largest one was 
called Eoss Island. It was a great park, open to the public, 
filled with deep thickets, clumps of azaleas, rhododendrons 
grown into trees, and lawns covered with asphodels. From 
numerous coves on the beach they caught splendid views of 
the lake. 

The next island was still more lovely. It was called 
Innisfallen. 




Ross Castle, Killarney. 

"Did you ever hear, Mrs. Cartmell," asked Miss Gray, 
"the saying, that Ireland is the jewel of the West, Killarney 
is the jewel of Ireland, and Innisfallen is the jewel of Kil- 
larney ? " 

"No; but I remember Thomas Moore's lines : — 

" ' Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 

May calm and sunshine long be thine! 
How fair thou art, let others tell — 
To feel how fair shall long be mine. 



THROUGH IRELAND 



39 



Sweet Innisfalleii, long shall dwell 
In memory's dream that sunny smile 

Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
When first I saw thy fairy isle.' " 

Mr. Cartmell pointed out that the beauty of this spot was 
largely owing to the alternating hill and dale of its surface, ' 

OM Weir Brkfrje. 



Bruteen Bridge. 




Lower Lake. 
Killarney Lakes. 



the attractiveness of the small rivers and harbors, the loveli- 
ness of the vegetation, and the grandeur of the surrounding 
mountains. " The Irish speak," continued Mr. Cartmell, " of 
this part of the lake as ' a diamond set in emeralds.' " 

Not far from the scenes of all this loveliness in nature, 
Miss Gray and the boys, in their evening strolls, discovered 
many poor cottages, occupied by those whose riches were 
largely a few pigs and chickens and many children. 



CHAPTER IV 



NORTHERN IRELAND 




^i^^tf^-gi'i 



;'#»«*«**<< 



The next day the Cartmell party bade adieu to lovely 
Killarney, and proceeded by train to Dublin. Mr. Cartmell 
secured a compartment in a first-class carriage, and found it 
very secluded and comfortable. The children were greatly 
interested in the remarkable difference between the English 

system of steam-car 
travelling and our own. 
^^^ ,.^ _- . ,-, (i'j^i^Q insh railways," 

said Mr. Cartmell 
after they started, " are 
very different from 
tliose in the United 
States. The stations 
here may be rather 
poor, but in England 
and Scotland we may 
expect to find many 
of them very charming 
and beautiful, with flowers and plants about them. The peas- 
antry are too poor to travel here very much, and the rival rail- 
road companies are always quarrelling." 

Florence noticed that the cars were divided into several 
cross sections, usually called compartments, containing six or 
eight seats, arranged so that half the passengers ride back- 
wards. Mr. Cartmell told her that many English people pre- 
fer the seats facing the rear. These compartments were 
not connected, but the officials passed along the outside 

40 



.TKM^Mg^milt^M^A 



Cottage at Killarney. 




NORTHERN IRELAND. 41 

of the carriages and examined tickets before reacliing tlie 
important stations. In the small places the tickets were 
collected at the stations as the passengers went ont into the 
street. 

" Why, papa," exclaimed Fred, " there seems to be no 
way in which to warm the cars ! There is no ice-water 
to drink, no water-closet, no newspaper boy. What do they 
do ? " 

" This is not a first-class train, and hence has not the com- 
forts and advantages which we may reasonably expect in 
other parts of Great Britain. In England there are now 
trains called corridor trains, with dining-cars, after the Amer- 
can pattern of vestibule trains, and they are quite common. 
Wonderful improvements have been made in the railway sys- 
tem within a few years. On only a few lines have the Eng- 
lish yet introduced our admirable system of checking baggage ; 
but they send one car in a train to a certain part of the 
country, and another car to a different section, as is so com- 
monly done in the United States." 

" Mr. Cartmell, are you going to Limerick ? " Miss Gray 
inquired. 

''■ No ; we cannot spend the time. I am sorry, as I wished 
you all to see the Shannon River, the longest river in Ire- 
land, where they catch the famous Irish salmon. Look on 
this map, children, and notice that the river descends so 
moderately it spreads out into several large lakes. After the 
third lake, it narrows for a few miles, and then joins the sea 
by a noble estuary sixty miles long, and in some places ten 
miles wide." 

" For what is Limerick noted ? " 

"For the making of thread lace in the houses, and fish- 
hooks from steel wire. I have been told that most of 
the people in that town have dark complexions and dark 
hair, showing that they arc largely descended from the 



42 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Spaniards who were rescued from the wreck of the Armada, 
and who settled there afterwards." 

As they journeyed on towards Dublin, Miss Gray read to 
the children about the beautiful Vale of Adare, which is 
situated not far from the town of Limerick. Four lines 

were : — 

" How shall I tell the thousand charms 
Within thy verdant bosom swelling, 
When, lulled in Nature's fostering arms, 
Soft peace abides, and joy excelling !" 

Then Mr. Cartmell told Nellie and Fred that the western 
part of Ireland consisted largely of mountain ranges, barren 
and rocky hills, wild moorlands, and broken river valleys. 
The part, however, along the Shannon River was quite fer- 
tile. These mountains (he explained, pointing to the map) 
extended to the very coast; and the shore was very steep, 
many of the western cliffs being 1,000 feet high. The coast 
was worn, and consequently very irregular ; caves were abun- 
dant, and the islands off the shore were the homes of count- 
less sea-fowl. Only a few small fishing-towns were to be 
found on this coast, with the exception of Galway, which 
Avas the principal western seaport. Even this place contained 
only 15,000 people. Manj^ of these folk were so poor they 
felt obliged to go over to England every summer to work on 
the harvest, and thus earn money enough to pay their rent. 

Beside the track the children saw many cabins made of 
rough stones fastened together by mud or sea-sand, with a 
door to enter by, and a hole in the roof for the smoke to 
go out. 

" In one of these," said Mrs. Cartmell, " I suppose the pig 
and the fowls and the family will all herd together at night." 

They noticed from the train a good deal of wet, low, 
swampy, or morass land. This led George to remark, — 

" How much worthless land there is in Ireland." 



NORTHERN IRELAND 



43 



''Would you consider land containing coal worthless ? " 

" By no means." 

" Well, in many of these marshes, or bogs, is found a kind 



Irish Peasants. 




Irish Cabin. 



of soil containing so much decayed vegetable matter that when 
it is dried it will readily burn. It is called j^eai, and, in the 
absence of wood and coal, is quite generally used for fuel." 



44 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Papa, what is meant by shamrock ? " Florence inquired. 

" The shamrock, much like white clover, is the national 

flower of Ireland, just as the thistle is of Scotland, and the 



Custom- House. 




Sackville Street. 
Dublin. 



rose of England. If you will notice the British coat-of-arms, 
you will see these three flowers growing from one stem." 

Several days were to be spent in Dublin, Ireland's former 
capital. George and his father went out to walk about eight 



46 NORTHERN EUROPE 

o'clock the next morning. They were surprised to notice that 
the shutters were closed, and the streets and horse-cars quite 
empty. The stores were opened about ten o'clock. As every- 
body called the street-cars " trams," Mr. Cartmell made some 
inquiries, and found out that the name came from a Mr. 
Outram, who invented them. His name was shortened ; and 
they were soon called "Tram-cars," then "Trams." 

A ride about the city was proposed for the afternoon. In 
the ride they learned that the city was built on both sides of 
the river Liffey, and that this river poured its muddy waters 
into the beautiful and spacious Dublin Bay. The Cartmells 
rode through a part of Sackville Street, but which everybody 
seemed to call O'Connell Street, because at the head of the 
bridge called after the great liberator stands an imposing 
monument, crowned with his own colossal statue in bronze. 

They drove to the College Green. On one side they saw 
Trinity College, modelled after the great English universities. 
They were told that its inside arrangements were very fine. 
The halls, lecture-rooms, student-rooms, etc., were separated 
by large court-yards, beautiful in lawns and trees. In one 
room they saw the organ which Philip of Spain sent in 
the Spanish Armada to celebrate the victory he expected to 
win over the English. But the English ships overcame the 
Armada, and the storm drove the remaining ships and con- 
tents upon the western shores. From the wreck the organ 
was saved. 

At the gate of the college they saw statues of Edmund 
Burke, Oliver Goldsmith, and Henry Grattan, three of Ire- 
land's great men. 

On the other side of the Green the Cartmells found the 
Bank of Ireland, occupying the building formerly used by 
the Irish Parliament. The custom-house, on the banks of 
the river, they thought a fine building. 

The next day Mr. Cartmell drove to Phoenix Park, which, 



NORTHERN IRELAND 



47 



he said, is one of the largest parks in the world. They found 
it to consist of undulating land, woods of splendid elms, 
copses of pink and white thorn, meadows carpeted with 
golden-eyed daisies. On these meadows they saw feeding 
cows, gray sheep, and fallow deer, almost tame. Lakes and 
lovely gardens were abundant. Mrs. Cartmell remarked as 
they left, "This park contains everything but pedestrians." 




High Street. 



Belfast. 



Royal Avenue. 



" Where is Swift's monument, Mr. Cartmell ? " Miss Gray 
inquired. 

" We will drive to it on our way back." 

They found it in a very old church called St. Patrick's 
Cathedral, over which Swift was once dean. 



48 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" Did he Avrite ' Gulliver's Travels ' " ? Fred asked. 

" Yes, and other books." 
Not far from this cathedral they rode through a very poor 
section of the city. The houses were tumble-down and dirty, 
with old petticoats hung up in place of curtains. The pave- 
ment seemed to be the market-place. Pawn-shops were 
plenty. Ragged girls in clogs and straw hats were selling 
the afternoon papers. The dress of the women was beyond 
description ; it seemed to be composed mostly of rags. 

"Notice, children, that nearly all the women go barefoot; 
but it would be considered a lasting disgrace for them to 
go bareheaded." 

From Dublin the Cartmells proceeded to Belfast, which 
they found to be an interesting place of 200,000 people. On 
their way to this city in the train, they saw many fields of 
the pretty flax plant. They learned that most of the people 
hereabouts were employed in the manufacture of linen and 
cotton, and that here also many ships were built. 

In this section of the country small villages were fre- 
quently seen. The people seemed better off than farther 
south. 

One or two excursions were taken from Belfast to places 
near by. In the sleepy little town of Antrim they saw a 
beautiful castle, surrounded by extensive grounds. Not far 
from this castle is the largest lake in Great Britain, twenty 
miles long and fifteen wide, about the size of the Lake of the 
Woods. Not a ship or boat was seen on its vast surface. It 
was never frozen over but once, they learned. 

On this trip they saw for the first time one of the famous 
round towers seen in certain parts of the island. This one 
was about 93 feet high. A bell formerly hung in the top. 
Why it was built no one seems to know. 

''When do we go to see the Giant's Causeway, papa?" 
Fred inquired. 



NORTHERN IRELAND 



49 





''We will start in a 
day or two, my boy." 

" How do we go ? " 

" We will go first by 
rail to the eastern coast, 
and then by carriage." 

At Larne the Cart- 
mells left the train, and 
hired a carriage to carry 
them northward. They 
were delighted with this 
ride. The road was a 
constant marvel of en- 
gineering skill, winding 
in and out, now high 
above the level of the 
sea, now cutting through 
solid limestone rock, 
now nearer the water. 
On the left were over- 
hanging cliffs, and on 
the right the open blue 
sea, as blue and bright 
as the Mediterranean. 

As they rode along, 
Mr. Cartmell pointed 
out the opposite coast 
of Scotland, and said, 
'•' From that section the 
invaders came over, and 
drove the native Irish 
into the inland bogs, and 

colonized this seaboard with a population which remains large- 
ly Scottish, both in names and characteristics, to this day." 





Round Tower near Antrim. 



50 



NORTHERN EUROPE 




In this northeastern part of Ireland they found the land 
well cultivated, even when near the sea. Fields of oats waved 
on every bit of level ground ; potatoes flourished in nooks of 
the cliffs near tidy cottages ; bright-eyed children were seen 
everywhere ; fowls were numerous ; and the cows equalled the 
goats in the power of climbing in this thriving community. 

The driver, upon 
being questioned, told 
them, " Most of these 
farmers are well off ; 
they pay their rent, and 
the masters are very 
kind to them." 

The Cartmells went 

into a farmhouse to get 

some milk to drink. 

They saw mahogany 

furniture dark with age, 

pictures on the walls, 

hens and chickens on the floor, and several dogs before the 

turf fire. Yet the place was quite tidy, and the milk very 

good. 

'' Papa," George asked, " what are some of the peculiarities 
of these people ? " 

'•' The Irish people are quick-witted, splendid at repartee, 
happy, jovial, progressive, generous, energetic, and ready to 
take responsibility. The best part of the Irish life is its 
youth. They marry very young ; they are virtuous, healthy, 
and strong." 

The nearer the Cartmells came to the northeastern corner 
of Ireland, the more evident the basaltic nature of the stone. 

" You will find, children," said Miss Gray, " that this sheet 
of basalt, on this part of the coast, is from ten to one thou- 
sand feet in thickness. It is a volcanic lava, poured out ages 



Cliff, Northeast Coast of Ireland, 



NORTHERN IRELAND 51 

ago. All the promontories in this part of Ireland are com- 
posed of enormous pillars, which sometimes slope gradually 
down to the sea, and perhaps extend under the sea, to the 
opposite coast of Scotland ; for the islands of Staft'a and lona 
have similar formations." 

At last the Giant's Causeway was reached, and the car- 
riage dismissed. 

'' Why, papa, is this place so called ? " Elorence inquired. 

"The people say it was so called because years ago it was 
built by Fin McCoul, an Irish Giant, out of politeness to a 
Scottish giant, whom he wished to come over and fight him 
' without wetting the soles of his feet.' " 

The Giant's Causeway, they found by exploring, was made 
up of three distinct tongues of rocks, running out into the 
sea, each with a distinct slope. The largest one of these 
tongues was about 120 yards Avide at its base, with a length 
of about 230 yards. It gradually narrowed, until it was lost 
beneath the sea. The next tongue was nearly as wide, but 
much shorter. It was called, from its appearance, "Honey- 
comb." The third tongue was very small. 

Mr. Cartmell led the children to the centre of the great 
slope, and then called their attention to the shape of each 
column. The children soon learned that some of the columns 
were three-sided, some five-sided, and so on up to nine-sided. 
Most of them were pentagons and hexagons. The columns 
were not formed of a single piece or block, but of many pieces, 
from one to two feet high, piled on one another, and wedged 
firmly together. George found out that these columns fitted 
so closely that a piece of paper could not be put in between 
them, and that there were supposed to be 40,000 or more dif- 
ferent columns in that one place. 

When the children had seen all they wished, Mr. Cartmell 
placed his family on board the electric railway, and they rode 
a short distance to Portrush. This raihvay skirted the sea so 



52 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



closely that they could see the waves dashing among the 
rocks of black basalt, streaked now and then with white lime- 
stone. Everywhere the rocks took on strange forms. Caves 
and archways were common ; through these the ever-restless 
waves came pouring and boiling. 

The train carried them back to Belfast. Reaching the 
hotel, the whole Cartmell family were greatly surprised to 
find in the office Mr. French, who was with them so much the 
year before in California. 




Wishing Chair. 



Lord Antrim's Parlor. 



Giant's Causeway. 



After a few moments of mutual congratulations, Fred 
asked, — 

''Mr. French, where is the steam-yacht, the dear old 
Verbena ? " 



NORTHERN IRELAND 53 

" Down in tlie harbor, my boy ; I came over in her. The 
yacht is again at your service, Mr. Cartmelh Wherever 
you wish, she will go." 

" Oh, what fun we can have then ! " exclaimed all the 
children in chorus. 

"How very kind of you ! " said Miss Gray. 

"We shall be most delighted," said Mr. Cartmell, "to 
have you join our party in northern Europe, and we may be 
very happy to avail ourselves of the use of the Verbena." 

Thus it was arranged that the Cartmells should go on 
board the Verbena the next day, and sail through the Irish 
Sea to Glasgow. 



CHAPTER V 

IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 

After a good night's rest the Cartmells rose early to 
take a look about Glasgow, their first Scotch city, and after 
a delicious breakfast, which included hot scones and Scotch 
marmalade, hurried out-of-doors. The hotel, of whose situa- 
tion they obtained but a slight knowledge the evening pre- 
vious, was found to stand about midway between the old and 
the new city ; the former sloping downward towards the 




Map and Route near Glasgow. 



water-side in steep, narrow streets, lined with dull gray stone 
houses, and the latter rising through a handsome residential 
district, broken by pretty parks and gardens, to an emi- 

54 



56 NORTHERN EUROPE 

nence crowned by the magnificent pile of the University of 
Glasgow. 

Of course the older part claimed first attention, and a 
unanimous vote was given for a visit to the ancient cathedral 
as by far the most interesting of the public buildings. This 
was the first really historic foreign cathedral the children had 
seen ; and they were much impressed, particularly George, who, 
seated on a stone tomb in the dim crypt beneath the church, 
read aloud from his pocket edition of Scott's " Eob Roy " the 
scene of the chieftain's appearance in the cathedral. 

Coming out into the sunlit square once more, the party 
walked on for a while in silence, the spell of the place yet 
upon them. Even Nellie's busy tongue was idle. Glasgow, 
they soon saw, was not only a very large, but a very busy city, 
with many industries, and a decidedly wide-awake appearance. 
The shops vied Avith each other in attractiveness, particularly 
those displaying the rich and glowing Scotch plaid goods, and 
the jewellery set with amethysts, topazes, and other stones of 
which the Scotch make so much use. The prices, too, seemed 
much lower than in America ; and this gave papa an ojjportu- 
nity to explain the questions of ''free trade" and "protec- 
tion," and how prices Avere affected thereby. 

As Mrs. Cartmell and the girls were anxious to make some 
purchases, and also to see the Kelvingrove Park in the upper 
part of the town, it Avas arranged that papa and the boys 
should spend the time among some of the famous shipyards 
on the river-bank just beloAV the city. They Avere fortunate 
in their visit. 

"The Avord Clyde," said Mr. Cartmell, as they Avalked 
down into one of the building-yards, " is derived from the 
old Welsh word clyd, meaning Avarm or sheltered. The valley 
of the Clyde, or Clydesdale, was early celebrated for its crops, 
Avhich ripened better than in other parts of Scotland. Along 
the banks in this vicinity the broom-plant was especially lux- 



m AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 



57 



uriant. The name is kept in the Broomiehiw Bridge, wliich 
you saw in the city, one of the busiest centres in Glasgow. 
This is the same broom-phmt, by the Avay, which the Romans 
called the planta genista, and from which the English race of 
Plantagenets took their name." 




On the Clyde, near Glasgow. 



" The river was once very shallow, was it not ? " asked 
George. 

'^ Yes ; I understand that within the memory of men now 
living, it was so small a stream at this point as to permit of 
wading across at low tide. Millions of pounds have been 
expended in deepening and widening the channel ; and now, 
as you see, even large ocean liners can reach their piers at all 
but lowest water." 

" How long has the Clyde been so famous for its ship- 
building ? " 

" Since the very earliest times," replied Mr. Cartmell. 



68 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



'' The river-bank is especially well adapted for this industry, 
being well sheltered, accessible, and with coal, iron, and wood 
close at hand. " Since the introduction of steam, yard after 
yard has been added, till now, as you see, they extend for 
miles. Our own Hudson saw the iirst steam-vessel, Fulton's 
Clermont, and the honor of the discovery has always been his. 
The Clyde, however, was the first European river on which the 
steamboat was used commercially. David Napier and James 
Watt, the inventors of the steam-engine, made all their early 
experiments here, and gained their celebrity largely in con- 
nection with the ship-building industry." 




Building tfie Campania. 



By this time the party had been joined by one of the fore- 
men of the yard, who courteously offered them the privilege of 
inspecting one of the huge Atlantic liners which was nearly 
ready for launching. The noise of the busy steam-hammers 
at work on the giant hull made conversation next to impossi- 



IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 59 

ble, but by close attention the boys were able to hear what 
their conductor had to say. 

" Ship-building has indeed become an art," observed Mr. 
Cartmell, as the party stood beneath the enormous mass of the 
steamship. 

" Yes, both a science and an art," replied the foreman, 
" One of the recent chairs founded in Glasgow University is 
for the study of the principles of ship-building. Scotland 
always means to lead the world in this industry." 

" A¥ill you tell us why wood has been given up in the 
building of steam-vessels ? "questioned Fred. " Iron doesn't 
seem to me as good." 

" First," said the foreman, " because ships constructed 
wholly of iron are much lighter than those of the same ton- 
nage made of wood, and consequently they can carry larger 
freights. The larger the freight capacity, the more money for 
the ship's owners." 

" These ships are built of steel, are they not ? " asked Mr. 
Cartmell. 

" Yes, As iron took the place of wood for ships' hulls, 
so steel is supplanting iron. Steel, as you know, possesses 
greater strength than iron, and is much lighter. The modern 
steamship must be fast ; and builders have been quick to 
realize that, as lightness is essential to speed, it is better to 
use steel than iron. There is practically no iron about this 
ship. All the early Atlantic steamers, however, were of 
wood, and, like the river-boats, were propelled by paddle- 
wheels. One of our most important industries to-day is the 
production of steel. We have immense plants in and around 
Glasgow, and make what is called "mild steel." This is used 
for boiler and hull plates, and is shipped all over the world." 

" What is the saving of weight by using steel instead of 
iron ? " asked Mr, Cartmell. 

" About sixteen per cent. An important point also is that 



60 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



steel will bend, and not fracture like iron. If a ship runs 
ashore, her steel plates will bend to a large extent before 
breaking." 

The Cartmells, at the invitation of the foreman, soon 
clambered up on the deck of the steamer ; and here, somewhat 
out of the noise, their guide went on with his explanations. 
'' This ship is 620 feet long, and on account of her extreme 

length it was necessary 
to rearrange the whole 
building berth. She is 
longer than the breadth 
of the river. To build 
such a ship, with all 
the modern require- 
ments of absolute safe- 
ty, speed, and luxuri- 
ous equipment, is, as 
you can see, an im- 
mense undertaking; 
yet so perfect are all 
the arrangements for 
handling such con- 
tracts, that a ship can 
be built in an incred- 
ibly short time." 

"The steps are 
the same as in build- 
ing all ships, are they 
not ? " 
" Yes. First comes the general design, Avhich includes 
tonnage, speed, power, draught of water, stability, etc. 
Second, the keel is laid. Nowadays this is inside the hull, 
and formed of heavy steel plates. It is placed on great 
blocks, which are inclined toward the Avater. There are in 




Ready for Launching. 



IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 



61 



all large ships like this two bottoms, one inside the other. 
This gives greater strength and safety. The heaviest hydrau- 
lic machinery is used to rivet and re-rivet the parts together. 
Third comes the frame, composed of angle steel or iron, bent 
to the required curve, and riveted together. Pourth comes 
the steel beams for supporting the deck, and then the fitting 
of the deck itself. Fifth comes the plating, each plate being 
cut to the proper size, and the rivet-holes put in. Each plate 
is rolled so as to lit the shape of the part of the vessel it is to 
occupy. Of the plates used on the shell of the ship, the larger 
parts average 25 feet long and 6 feet wide, each weighing over 
two tons. The butts and edges of the plating are then made 
water-tight by forcing them close together. The joining and 
riveting of these plates requires special machinery and skilled 
labor." 




Ihe Campania Launched, 



" The arrangements for water-tight compartments are also 
of the greatest importance," observed Mr. Cartmell. 

"Yes. The crosswise partitions, which divide the hull 
into separate rooms, are the main dependence for safety. In 
this ship there are eighteen such partitions. The sections 
occupied by the machinery and by the coal-bunkers are en- 
tirely shut off from the rest of the ship by steel bulkheads. 
In case of accident, two or even three of these compartments 
might be flooded with water, and still the steamer would 
float in safety." 



62 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" I should like to see this ship launched," said George. 

«< It is a fine sight," said the foreman, " and a gala day in 
the yards. The launching of a ship of this size must be care- 
fully planned before the keel is laid down. Generally speak- 
ing the various steps are these : The vessel's keel rests on 
keel-blocks. Ways are placed on each side, and a timber 
structure called a cradle is built around the under part of the 
vessel. The cradle rests on the ways, which are inclined 
toward the water. Prior to the launch these ways are coated 
with tallow. The cradle is kept in place by a movable piece 
of wood called a dagger. When this is knocked out of place, 
and the keel-blocks removed, the ship at once slips down into 
the water." 

Mr. Cartmell thanked the foreman for his interesting in- 
formation ; and the party gladly availed themselves of the per- 
mission given to inspect not only the entire ship, but the shops 
in the yard, where the machinery was being set up. 

Six o'clock found the family talking over the day's experi- 
ences around a cosey dining-table at the hotel ; and as no one 
would acknowledge being at all tired, they started out for an 
evening walk towards the University and Botanic Gardens. 

"Do you notice how much more brilliant the colors of 
the flowers are than with us ? " said Miss Gray. 

" Yes," replied Mrs. Cartmell, as they stopped before a bed 
of vivid yellow flowers; "I believe the flowers are always 
brighter and smaller the farther north you go, and we are 
considerably farther north than Lake View. I remember 
noting the same thing in the gardens in Nova Scotia." 

'' I have noted something else," said Mr. Cartmell, " which 
makes me realize how far north we are, and that Glasgow is 
in nearly the same latitude as Alaska. Do you know what 
time it is ? Look over at that clock tower." 

" Pive minutes of ten ! Lnpossible ! " chorused the chil- 
dren, gazing around in amazement. 



IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 



6S 




Route in Scotland. 



64 



InTORTHERN EUROPE. 



It was still light enough to read the finest print of the 
guide-books, and the west was bright and rosy. 

The next day was Sunday, and the Cartmells were glad 
enough to rest. 

A " Scotch Sunday " they found, however, to be in the 




Burns's Cottage, Ayr. 

large cities a thing of the past. Instead of the quiet an3 
stillness they had read about, the street and steam cars and 
the river steamers were running as in ISTew York or Boston. 
The open-air band concerts were attended by thousands of 
people. Mr. Cartmell was greatly surprised to learn that it 
was the same in Edinburgh and in many other places. 

Monday, it had been arranged, was to be given to an ex- 
cursion to Ayr, the birthplace of the poet Burns ; and it proved 
a day long to be remembered. Miss Gray, who was a great 
lover of Burns, had hoped to catch at least a glimpse of the 
town of Dumfries, where he wrote his famous " Tam o' Shan- 



IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 



65 



ter," and of Mauchline, where many of his characters lived ; 
but the time was too short. 

The distance southward from Glasgow to Ayr was about 
forty miles, and at each little station as the train sped along the 
scenery grew more beautiful. Seven miles out the old town 
of Paisley was passed, noted for its manufacture of shawls, 
woollen goods, cotton thread, etc. Among the tall chimneys 
could be seen the dark walls of the old Paisley Abbey. As 
they neared the seacoast the pure salt air came in through 
the car windows in the most invigorating way, though with a 




Kirh-Alloway. 



milder character than that of the sea winds in Massachusetts. 
The beautiful , meadow lands were dotted with grazing cattle, 
and picturesquely divided by the winding stream of the river 
Ayr. 

''I don't wonder the Scotch love Ayrshire," said Florence; 



66 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" I'd. like to spend the whole summer here. We must at least 
have a real Ayrshire cow when we get home, mustn't we, 
mamma ? " 

'' Yes," said Mrs. Cartmell, smiling ; '' I don't suppose that 
the Ayrshire dairy products are excelled in the whole world. 
The grass is wonderfully sweet, and. the water pure." 

" But here we are ! " said Mr. Cartmell. '■ See, there are 
the real ' twa brigs ' over the river, which Burns wrote about ! 
How charming it all is ! " 

Five minutes more and the family were seated in a stylish 
trap outside the station, ready for the tAvo-mile drive to the 
early home of Burns, and the various places of interest. The 
pretty town itself, as indeed the whole region, was redolent of 
Burns. 

The birthplace, at which they stopped first, was found to 
be a humble wdiitewashed cottage thatched with straw, now 
somewhat enlarged from its original dimensions. It had then 
but two rooms ; and in the kitchen, with its stone floor and 
cavernous fireplace for the burning of peat, the visitors were 
shown the wretched recess where the poet first drew breath. 

jSTot far off was the famous " Kirk-Alloway," mentioned 
in the poem of " Tarn o' Shanter," now wholly roofless, and 
nearly smothered in ivy. The lovely stream of the river 
Doon was but a few minutes walk from the church ; and look- 
ing down into the amber water hurrying on over the pebbles, 
it Avas easy to conjure up Tam's wild ride from the pursuing 
witches. Standing upon the arched bridge, Miss Gray repeated, 
the well-known poem, — 

' ' Ye banks and braes o' bonnie Doon, 
How can ye bloom sae fresh and fair !' " 

The ornamental gardens surrounding the fine Burns monu- 
ment were also visited. 



IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 



67 



'•'Where was Burns buried, Miss Gray?" Morence in- 
quired. 

'■ His mausoleum is in Dumfries. It is a very appropriate 
tomb, — strong, sim- 
ple, and grand in 
style, like Burns him- 
self." 

"Ah," said Mrs. 
Cartmell, as they sped 
back to Glasgow by 
the late afternoon 
train, ''what a de- 
lightful day we have 
had ! The country 
looks even more beau- 
tiful and peaceful 
than it did this morn- 
ing. With how much 
more interest we shall 
read Burns's poems 
now that we have seen 
the very places he 
wrote about ! " 

"Yes, indeed," re- 
plied Mr. Cartmell. " I shall certainly read before I sleep, 
' To a Daisy,' and several others; but the rest of you must go 
to bed early, for to-morrow we start north for an excursion 
among the islands." 




Burns's Mausoleum, Dumfries, Scotland. 



CHAPTER VI 

OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 

When it was decided to visit Fingal's Cave, Mr. French 
offered Mr. Cartmell the use of the Verbena, which was gladly 
accepted, and all went on board soon after breakfast. 

Leaving Glasgow, the party soon found themselves at 
Greenock, near the mouth of the Clyde. Miss Gray called to 
mind that Greenock was the birthplace of James Watt, the 
inventor of the steam-engine, and that Burns's Highland Mary 
was buried in the churchyard. After passing through the 
Crinan Canal, 9 miles long, and up the Firth of Lorn, the 
mountains of the island of Mull came grandly into view ; and 
after a beautiful sail up the Bay of Oban, the Cartmells found 
themselves at the landing pier at Oban. 

The town itself was shut in by hills, and was apparently a 
great rendezvous for tourists, who crowded the hotels to over- 
flowing. It resembled Bar Harbor at Mount Desert. After 
dinner the party walked to the pier to see the Staffa boat 
come in, and watch the sunset, which was a grand spectacle. 

Steaming out of Oban Bay next morning, the travellers 
were in the midst of some of the finest scenery in Scotland. 
The great masses of the Argyllshire hills, the distant peaks of 
Ben Nevis and Glencoe, with the archipelago of lovely islands, 
made a grand picture. 

The captain, who was on deck, entered into conversation 
with the Cartmells, noting their interest. 

" If you please, Captain," broke in Nellie, " Avon't you tell 
us why Scotch mountains are called ' bens,' and the lakes 
' lochs ' ? Is Ben short for Benjamin ? " 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 69 

''They are old Gaelic words," replied the captain pleas- 
antly. "'Ben' means in English a head, peak, or summit. 
' Loch ' you have probably seen spelled also ' lough,' if yoa 
have been in Ireland. If you stop over in the islands, you 
will probably hear some Gaelic spoken yet, though it is far 
from common." 

" A]id is this the Sound of Mull ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. 

" Yes ; and on the shore just there is where Sir Walter Scott 
laid the scene of his ' Lord of the Isles.' We shall be in the 




Fingal's Caue, Staffa, Scotland. 

waters of the Atlantic very shortly, and you will then see 
Staffa, off the western shore of Mull." 

" This western coast is quite different in character from 
the eastern coast of Scotland, is it not ? " asked Mr. Cart- 
mell. 

" Yes; they present a singular contrast. The western 
shore is rocky, broken, and mountainous, with innumerable 
islands, mostly volcanic, and deeply indented fiords or bays. 



70 NORTHERN EUROPE 

The eastern shore has broad sweeps of land in gentle slopes. 
The climate, too, is very different. In winter the Atlantic 
really keeps these islands warm, through the prevailing 
westerly winds. The mountains, however, on the west coast 
make the rainfall much greater than that of the east coast. 
Were it not for our west winds, we should have the climate of 
Greenland. But here we are off Staffa, and the boats will 
be lowered for those who wish to see Fingal's Cave. You 
are fortunate to have a quiet day, for an entrance can be 
effected only when the sea is smooth." 

The strong Scotch oarsmen soon brought the boat of the 
Cartmell party to the shore, and into the cave. It was found 
to be about 200 feet long, with an entrance 40 feet wide, the 
roof 60 feet above the water. The walls were formed of 
great columns of basalt, ranged perpendicularly row behind 
row. The tremendous noise of the swelling tide mingled 
with the deep-toned echoes of the dark vault was not a little 
startling, and a few minutes was found sufficient for most 
visitors. 

" What is basalt, papa ? " asked Florence on their way 
back to the steamer. 

"It is an extremely heavy, hard rock, probably volcanic," 
replied Mr. Cartmell, " and is usually of a black or bluish 
color. It has the singular tendency to split vertically into 
angular columns, thus forming the curious perpendicular 
shafts you noticed here, and at the Giant's Causeway in 
Ireland. Staffa means 'the island of columns,' and there are 
several other smaller caves on the island. The formation 
undoubtedly extends all the way from Ireland here, under 
the sea." 

" Are there basalt columns in any other part of the 
world ? " queried Fred. 

" Yes ; I believe there are some wonderful cliffs of basalt 
in New South Wales and New Zealand." 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 71 

After a sail of thirty minutes, the steamer reached the 
island of lona, the end of the trip. A guide took the passen- 
gers to several interesting places, including the ruins of an 
ancient cathedral, and a curious stone cross, one of over three 
hundred once standing on the island. The guide explained 
that lona was one of the earliest seats of Christianity in 
Europe, a church being founded there in the sixth century. 

By this time the day, which had begun with brilliant sun- 
shine, had become cloudy and dull, and a gray fog began to 
spread its chilly veil over the sea. The steamer passengers 
hastily returned to the ship, which was soon feeling her way 
out among the islands. The cabin was found to be much 
more comfortable than the deck ; and here, ensconced in a 
snug corner, with guide-books and maps, papa began a little 
lecture on Scotland. 

Scotland is about the size of the State of Maine, and has a popula- 
tion in the neighborhood of 4,000,000. The northern portion, called 
the Highlands, is very rugged and mountainous. The southern section 
is called the Lowlands. There are sixty prominent mountains, but 
none of them would be called high in the United States. Scotland has 
no very large rivers. The Forth, the Tay, the Clyde, and the Tweed 
are the largest. Their mouths, or estuaries, are generally very broad, 
and are called firths or friths. There are an immense number of lakes, 
most of them long and narrow, which greatly facilitate travel and busi- 
ness in the interior. The climate is extremely variable, with much 
rain and fog. It is too cool for most fruits, but dairy products are very 
important. Scotland is rich in minerals, and has notable mines of coal, 
iron, and copper, besides fine marble quarries. 

The sail back to Glasgow was without any special inci- 
dent. 

A day's rest after their return from the Oban trip put the 
Cartmell party in the best of condition for further travelling. 
They were now to proceed to Edinburgh by a northerly detour, 
in order to see some of the famous lakes, On arriving at the 



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station where they were to take the train for Balloch, at the 
foot of Loch Lomond, Miss Gray told the children the his- 
tory of Dumbarton Castle, which they could see from the 
train. Mr. Cartmell found an acquaintance from Boston, Mr. 
Montgomery, who was starting on the same trip. Mr. Mont- 
gomery had also recently made the Oban excursion, and was 
enthusiastic over its beauties. He was sorry that the Cart- 
mells could not have extended their tour northward, to see 
the Caledonian Canal and the Highlands of Scotland. 

" How long is this 
canal ? " asked Mr. 
Cartmell, who was 
always interested in 
statistics. 

" It is something 
over 60 miles, of which 
37 are over lakes and 
rivers, the remainder 
being artificial. It is 
the great natural glen, 
or valley, of Scotland." 
"Is the water 
deep ? " asked George. 
"About seventeen 
feet on an average, 
which allows for good- 
sized steamers." 
" I suppose you saw all the northern cities," said Mrs. 
Cartmell, " What sort of a place is Inverness ? " 

" Not particularly interesting in itself," replied Mr. Mont- 
gomery ; " but it is the capital of the Highlands, and the 
vicinity is interesting to students of history. Culloden Moor 
with its battlefield is near by, and also Cawdor Castle, made 
famous by Shakespeare in ^ Macbeth,' Al^erdeep, on the 




Dumbarton Castle. 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 73 

north-east shore, is a fine city, with wealthy residents. Dun- 
dee, at the mouth of the Tay, is noisy, with immense linen 
mills. Perth has also large manufactories. They are all 
busy places." 

" Did you see many Scotch costumes ? " questioned Nellie ; 
"we haven't seen any at all yet." 

" To tell the truth," laughed Mr. Montgomery, " I'm afraid 
you won't see many, except on the soldiers. You will see 
some Scotch Highlanders at Edinburgh, at any rate ; and 
they are very picturesque. I saw a good many near the 
Queen's summer home at Balmoral in the north." 

"I want to ask if you ever went up to the top of Ben 
Nevis?" said George, who delighted in climbing. "I had 
hoped we might make the excursion from Oban." 

" I have done so on a former visit. It is, you know, the 
highest point in the British Isles. On the summit is a weather 
observatory, one of the few high-level observatories in Great 
Britain." 

" The lakes and streams of the Highlands are very beauti- 
ful, are they not ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. 

" Yes ; the lochs number several hundred. The smallest 
are called tarns. They are formed by glacial action, and are 
very interesting to scientists. The valleys, with their central 
stream, when steep-walled and narrow, as in the north, are 
called glens ; in the south, where broader and more open, they 
are termed dales, as Tweeddale, Teviotdale, and Clydesdale." 

The train had now reached Balloch, and the tourists were 
quickly on board the puffing little steamer at the end of the 
pier. Loch Lomond stretched out to the north, closed in by 
mighty hills, its waters fairly dancing in the morning sun- 
shine. Every one congratulated every one else on " such an 
unusually bright day for Scotland." 

" How purple those mountains look ! " exclaimed Florence, 
as they moved out into the lake. 



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" Tliey do, indeed," said Miss Gray, who was looking 
through her glass. " I understand it is the purple heather, 
now in bloom, which gives them a portion of their color. 
"V^Se must each gather some heather before leaving Scotland. 
Thistles and heather are the Scotch national emblems." 



Ben Lomond. 



Boat Pier, Loch Katrine. 




Loch Lomond. 
Scottish Lakes. 



" That highest mountain on the left is Ben Lomond," said 
Mr. Cartmell, who stood just behind them. " See what a 
grand purple shadow it casts away across the lake ! " 

"Yes, nothing could be more beautiful than this lake," 
returned Miss Gray enthusiastically. "It reminds me of our 
own Lake George, though I believe it is not as large." 

'' No ; but it is the largest sheet of fresh water in Great 
Britain," returned Mr. Cartmell. 

At Inversnaid a change was made from the steamer to 
coaches for Loch Katrine. These coaches were gorgeous 
affairs, with red-coated drivers and footmen, and powerful 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 



75 



horses. Mamma remembered that the Falls at Inversnaid 
was the scene of Wordsworth's poem, " The Highland Girl ; " 
so while the coaches were toiling up the hill, papa and the 
boys darted off from the roadway to catch a glimpse of the 
Falls. * 

The coach-driver explained that all this land for many 

miles was the property of the Duke of A , and pointed 

out portions preserved for grouse and pheasants. Later on 
they saw the cottage of Rob Roy's wife, and the ruins of a 
fort once occupied by General Wolfe. The views were very 
fine. 

Loch Katrine was another lovely sheet of water. While 
the travellers were taking a hasty luncheon, the impatient 




Ellen's Isle, Loch Katrine. 



little boat sent out shrill whistles, which echoed over and over 
again among the hills. 

Of the trip across the lake, George wrote as follows : — 



76 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Locli Katrine to most travellers is the most interesting of all the 
Scotch lakes, though perhaps not as beautiful as Loch Lomond or Loch 
Achray. Its association with Scott's "Lady of the Lake" has given it 
a unique and undying charm. Every point has the coloring of poetry 
and romance. The Silver Strand, a stretch of white beach, Ellen's 
Isle, a fairy bit of rocks and greenery, Ben Ledi and Ben Venue, with 
their overhanging purple masses, are all pointed out as the steamer 
passes along, ^or those more practically inclined, the lake is interest- 
ing as supplying the city of Glasgow with water. 




In the Pass of the Trossachs, 
" Where twines the Path." 

The Trossachs. 

After a run of twelve miles, the steamer entered, a small 
inlet Avitli lofty rocks on each side, and made fast to the 
pier, which bore the sign "Trossachs." It was a wild, lonely 
place. 

" I am expecting every moment that Roderick Dhu, the 
fair Ellen, the great Douglas, or Rob Roy himself, will come 
popping out of these woods," said George to Florence, as he 
helped her to mount one of the waiting coaches. 

"Well, I don't believe they will," said his sister; "but 
there's a real Scotch pij^er just iu front of that first coach ! 
Isn't he a picture ? " 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 77 

" He'll play ye a braw tune through the glen, m' ledclie," 
said the jolly driver. " Try him with a shilling." 

Half a mile farther on, Fred, who had been walking 
through the woods, came up with the coach, his hands full 
of ferns, bluebells, and mountain heather. . . ' - 

A drire of seven miles brought the party to Aberfoyle, 
from which place the train carried them quickly into the 
venerable city of Stirling, the end of the long day's journey. 
The lengthy twilight had nearly faded into night when the 
Cartmells drove up to their hotel, and they were all tired 
enough to go to bed as soon as possible. 

The day's sight-seeing in the quaint old city of Stirling 
was arranged to include the castle, once the royal residence 
of the Stuarts of Scotland, and so closely connected with the 
unfortunate Queen Mary ; the Field of Bannockburn, where 
the Scotch fought under Robert Bruce ; the ruins of Cambus- 
kenneth Abbey; and the monument to the Scotch patriot 
William Wallace. 

At the castle, which was situated on an isolated mass of 
rock rising nearly 200 feet above the town, a magnificent 
view was obtained. The castle was garrisoned by a division 
of the celebrated " Black Watch " of Scotland ; and the Cart- 
mells had a line sight of the soldiers in their national cos- 
tume, which included gay plaid kilts, glittering ornaments, tall 
plumed hats, and fur^bags or "sporrans." Within the walls 
the visitors saw many historic treasures. On the plain below, 
the guides showed where the royal tournaments were con- 
ducted in the time of the Jameses. 

After luncheon the party drove out to the Field of Ban- 
nockburn, now a peaceful stretch of rich meadow-land, but 
musical with the same little burn, or brook, which ran red 
with blood on that fateful battle-day in June, 1314, when the 
Scotch won back their independence from England. 

" Was it the same Robert Bruce who learned patience 



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from a spider, who fought here ? " asked Nellie of Miss 
Gray. 

'' The very same," said Miss Gray, laughing ; " but I don't 
think he remembered his lesson long." 

Fred, as they drove back into the town, displayed some 




Forth Bridge. 

brilliant red pebbles he had taken from the historic brook as 
souvenirs of his visit. 

An hour's ride by train in the late afternoon brought the 
Cartmells into Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. 

A few miles before entering the city, Mr. Cartmell let 
down the car windows that a view might be obtained of the 
great bridge across the river Forth, over Avhich the train 
passed. 

" How long is this bridge, papa ? " asked Florence, as 
she looked down at the river through the net-work of iron 
girders. 

" It is a cantilever bridge, and has two immense spans, as 



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you see," said her father, " each about 1,600 feet, I believe. 
The centre rests on that tiny island in the river, and the 
whole structure is 150 feet above the water. The Forth is 
one of the largest rivers in Great Britain, and this is one of 
the remarkable bridges of the worki.:'^ 

" It is not nearly as airy and graceful as the Brooklyn 
suspension bridge at home," said Mrs. Cartmell. 

" No ; but here a bridge must be more firmly built, on 
account of the high tides, and the tremendous winds which, 
blow up the Firth of Forth in the winter." 




General View of Edinburgh. 



On arriving at the Edinburgh station, Mr. Cartmell and 
George hurried off to look up the baggage, which had come 
through in less than one hour from Glasgow. One and all 
the travellers were glad that the next day Avas Sunday, for 
the week's sight-seeing had been fatiguing. 



OTHER FARTS OF SCOTLAND 81 

Mr. Cartmell had arranged to give a week to Edinburgh, 
thinking it none too long to see and study its many interest- 
ing places. As the family gathered around the breakfast- 
table next morning in the needed quiet of another Sunday, 




Scott's Monument. 

Mr. Cartmell took the opportunity to explain something of 
the situation and history of the city. 

"Edinburgh is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, 
and on account of its learning has been called the ' Modern 
Athens,' just as Boston is called the ' Modern Athens ' of 
America. Edinburgh has a population of about 260,000, 
about the size of Pittsburg, Penn., Miss Gray's home. Its 
chief feature is the castle, which you can see from our win- 
dows here. Like the castle at Stirling, it is built on a curious 
isolated crag with three precipitous sides. The city is di- 



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vided into two parts, — the Listoric Old Town on one side of 
a gully or depression which was once the bed of a lake, and 
the New Town, with its fine shops and residences, on the 
other. That fine monument you see down the street is the 
national memorial to Sir Walter Scott. To the left is Calton 
Hill, from which such fine views are seen. Across, beyond 

r-,,, Jlirih. SD-eet and the West Bow. 




Jeanie Deans's Cottage. 

Edinburgh. 



the Old Town, is the hill Arthur's Seat. To the right is the 
castle. To-morrow we will begin our sight-seeing." 

At an early hour Monday the party were snngly packed 
into open carriages for a look at Edinburgh. As they drove 
slowly down the broad Princes Street, not one could repress 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 



83 



an exclamation of delight at the numbers of splendid shops, 
which were absolutely dazzling with rich woollens, silks, and 
jewelry. The carriage pulled up at the Scott monument, to 
let George and Fred climb to the top for a view of the city 
and the distant Forth Bridge. 

Edinburgh Castle was full of interest. Like Stirling, it 
was strongly fortified, and garrisoned with troops. The party 
were taken by guides to all parts of the ancient structure. 
They saw the regalia of the old Scottish kings ; Queen Mary's 
rooms, in one of which James VI. was born ; relics of Robert 
Bruce, and many other things. From the battlements they 




Edinburgh Castle, from the Grassmarket. 



could look down 200 feet into the streets below. West Bow, 
below the castle, is near High Street. In another part of 
the city Miss Gray pointed out Jeauie Deans's cottage, the 
heroine of Scott's " Heart of Mid-Lothian." 

The drive down the steep High Street and Canongate of 



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the Old Town from the castle to Holy rood Palace was full of 
interest. Mr. Cartmell called particular attention to St. Giles 
Church, where John Knox, the Scotch reformer, preached. 
Knox's quaint old house was close by. The Tolbooth, or 




University Quadrangle. 
Edinburgh. 

Court House, was a curious relic, showing what ^dTOtrnrgh 
was in 1591. 

" The Knox house was built a century earlier, in 1490," 
said Miss -G-ray, -" I wonder if Nellie remembers something 
else which happened about that time." 

'•Indeed I do," said Nellie. "You mean the discovery of 
America in 1492. It seems queer, doesn't it, to be looking 
at a house built before Columbus's voyage ? " 



OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 85 

Standing on South Street Bridge, the chiklren looked 
down into Cowgate, which was about 50 feet below, and 
saw the people moving about. Some of the houses on each 
side were several stories high, and occupied by the poorest 
people in the city. 

Cowgate at this point was seen to be very narrow. 

" How is it," asked Fred, "that this street below was made 
so narrow when there is plenty of room in the suburbs for 
expanding ? " 

" Well, you see," answered Mr. Cartmell, " the city was 
once surrounded by a wall for its protection ; and as all the 
houses had to be built within the walls, the space was too 
valuable to allow wider streets, such as we are used to now. 
I don't think any part of this old city wall remains in Edin- 
burgh, but we shall see the remains of one at Chester when 
we go to England." 

Holyrood Palace gave interest, and a subject for reading 
and research next day. The whole morning was given to its 
inspection. The ancient rooms were filled with relics of the 
unhappy Mary, including bedroom furnishings, now dim and 
tattered with age. 

"Mr. Erench, what do you consider the special traits of 
the Scotch people ? " George asked one evening. 

" From what I have seen and read of them, I should reply 
that the wild mountains, the poor soil, the bracing air, have 
all contributed to make them strong, courageous, healthy, 
persevering, industrious, prudent, and deeply attached to their 
country." 



CHAPTER VII 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 

Before leaving Edinburgh the Cartmells spent a pleasant 
afternoon in a short excursion to Roslin Castle and Chapel, a 
few miles south of the city. They found much to see there, 
: ; and they were esi^ecially 

pleased av i t h the chapel, 
which is built entirely of 
stone, most profusely deco- 
rated. Miss Gray was greatly 
pleased with the Prentice 
Pillar. "The master-builder, 
children, had a young man 
working with h i in w h o 
seemed to have great ability. 
He asked permission to mak« 
one of the central pillars in 
this chapel. The request 
was granted. When his pil- 
lar was unveiled it was so 
much more beautiful than 
the others wrought by the 
master-builder, that the lat- 
ter, in shame and despair, 
committed suicide." 
The evening before leaving Edinburgh, Miss Gray read 
aloud from an entertaining life of Scott, and particularly con- 
cerning his life at Abbotsford, near Melrose, which was to be 
the next stopping-place. 

86 




Apprentice Pillar, Roslin Cliapel. 



88 NORTHERN EUROPE 

'' I don't wonder the Scotch almost worship Sir Walter," 
said Mrs. Cartmell ; *' think what he has done for his native 
land ! " 

" Yes, indeed," rejoined her husband ; " it is iScot-\a.iid 
truly. His wonderful pen has immortalized almost every 
foot of ground. All these mountains, glens, and lakes would 
simply interest us as beautiful scenery were it not for Scott's 
writings. That gives them a charm possessed by no other 
part of the world." 

'' Shall we see Melrose Abbey to-morrow, papa ? " asked 
Florence. " I am glad I read about it in the ' Lay of the 
Last Minstrel,' with Miss Gray, on the steamer coming 
over." 

" Yes ; and it is one of the most beautiful ruins you will 
see in all our travels. Melrose is only about 30 miles south- 
east of Edinburgh, so we shall not have a long journey." 

The ride the next morning was much of the way along the 
banks of the Tweed. The ruins of the famous Abbey were so 
near the station that no carriage was needed. 

As Mr. French piloted the way, he told the children that 
Eobert Bruce once rebuilt the abbey, after it had been de- 
stroyed by an English king. They found the ruins were not 
large, but beautiful. The principal part of the choir was 
standing, and showed very slender shafts, richly carved capi- 
tals, and beautiful vaulting. The east window had in it fine 
tracery. They all stood a few moments at the eastern end, 
where the heart of Robert Bruce was buried. They saAV 
several artists about the grounds making j)ictures. Miss 
Gray spoke to one lady, and found that she was from the 
United States. Before leaving, Miss Gray quoted these lines 
from Scott's " Lay of the Last Minstrel." 



•If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
Go visit it by the pale moonlight." 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIYERSTTIES 



89 



From Melrose Abbey the Cartmell party drove the same 
day to Abbotsford. The ride was a rather short one, with 
nothing very important to see till the turreted buildings, form- 
ing an irregular pile, were seen just before reaching them. 








'^^^:Mm' 



Abbotsford, Scott's Home. 



Thej^ noticed that even the entrance-hall was spacious and 
grand. Here they saw, standing near the fireplace, the chest 
in which the unfortunate girl died, who hid herself just be- 
fore her wedding. You can read about this in " The Mistle- 
toe Bough." The roof of this hall has fastened to it several 
armorial shields belonging to Scott's ancestors. 

They next went into the library, where they saw the keys 
of Selkirk jail ; the key of the old Tolbooth, the noted city 
prison of Edinburgh ; the clock which once belonged to Marie 
Antoinette, the Queen of France ; the portal of the same old 
Tolbooth, which was presented to Scott when the historic jail 
was destroyed. This room was very large and handsome. 
The windows commanded a fine view of the river Tweed, 



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Library, Study, and Armory, Abbotsford, Scotland. 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 91 

whicli could be heard rippling over the stones. The guide 
said the library was kept in about the same condition it 
was in when the great poet was living. The ceiling was 
richly ornamented. The books lined the sides of the room. 
There is a striking painting, on one side, of Scott's son 
Walter, as captain in the King's Hussars. 

Miss Gray and Mr. French were most delighted with the 
study. They found it almost exactly as Scott left it. Miss 
Gray sat with deep emotion at the desk, in the large leather- 
covered chair so often occupied by Sir Walter when writing 
his great books. This room was also lined with books. To 
reach those on the upper shelves an iron gallery was provided, 
going round the room about eight feet from the floor. 

The children were especially delighted with the armory. 
Here George found a thumb-screw once used for torture, a 
gag for scolding wives, and many such ancient devices. He 
was also greatly interested in the many different suits of ar- 
mor which are so often described in Scott's writings. Fred 
discovered there the pistol of JSTapoleon I., found in his car- 
riage after the battle of Waterloo, Rob Roy's gun, and many 
other historic weapons. 

The arms were classified, beginning with bows and arrows, 
and Roman spears, and so on, till modern muskets and rifles 
and pistols were reached. 

It was too late to visit Dryburgh Abbey, another ruin, 
where Scott was buried, in 1832. '' Scott's son-in-law, Mr. 
Lockhart," said Mr. French, '' is also buried in the same 
place. He is noted as Scott's biographer." 

An evening train carried them to York, where they were 
glad to find rest in a good hotel. 

" What do we go to see to-morrow, papa ? " Kellie in- 
quired before going to bed. 

" We expect to visit a very good example of a cathedral, 
called York Minster." 



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J^<mdt£aAf 



Houte in England and Wales. 



ARBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 93 



" What is a cathedral, papa ? " 

" The word first meant a seat ; then a church containing a 
bishop's seat or throne ; then a large church built in the form 
of a Latin or Greek cross. The ground plan of this cathedral 
can be seen by you children, if you will examine this guide- 
book. The central part of the west end, you see, is the nave ; 
the east end contains the choir and altar, and in this case the 
lady chapel. One of the entrances is through the ^wrch and 
the south transept. The transepts are, in York Minster, very 
wide ; and from the north 
one the visitor goes into 
the chapter-house. The 
aisles are the lower part 
on each side of nave and 
choir." 

The next morning Mr. 
French suggested that, 
before visiting the great 
church, they make a cir- 
cuit of the city walls, in 
order to see the minster 
as a whole. In this way 
the children obtained sev- 
eral excellent views of 
the sides and front of the 
cathedral. They learned 
that it had three square 
towers, but no spire. The 
central tower and the 
west facade seemed very 

imposing. The front fagade consisted of three arched por- 
tals, which admit into nave and aisles. 

They then entered at the south transept end, and obtained 
fine diagonal views of nave and choir, which they afterwards 




Plan of York Minster. 



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N^ORTHERN EUROPE 



found were finer than the views along the entire length of each 
section. 

The nave seemed both very tall and very broad, notwith- 
standing its great length. Miss Gray and Mrs. Cartinell were 
greatly pleased with the carved oak in the choir ; but they 
were disappointed to learn that the ceilings here were of wood, 
instead of stone, as in many other cathedrals. 

" The choir," Mr. Cartmell told them, " contains the seats 
for the choir boys, and here the officiating ministers conduct 
the service. When the number of worshippers is small, they 
also sit in this part." 

George learned from the verger that the east window was 




Choir Screen, York Minster, made of Stone. 



one of the largest in the world, being 73 feet by 33, and that 
the west window in the nave is considered one of the finest 
examples of the Decorative style to be found in England. 

"Notice, children," said Miss Gray, "how the lines form- 
ing the figure of the window unite to form a most beautiful 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 95 




Front Fagade, York Minster. 



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lace-like effect. It is filled Avitli ancient glass. The promi- 
nent colors, you see, are amethyst and ruby, set in ebony 
lace." 

Mr. French then drew their attention to the screen enclos- 
ing the choir, which he said was one of the most beautiful in 
England, because made of stone, richly carved, and containing 
so many large-sized statues of English kings. 

Then Mr. Cartmell led them to his favorite window, the 
wonderful window in the north transept, called the '^Eive 
Sisters." " See, my friends," he exclaimed, " they are each 
lancet windows, and they rise like arrows to the height of 54 
feet. All the beautiful glass in them is ancient, i.e., made 
between 1200 and 1400 ; and pale green is the general tone of 




Chapter-House, York Minster. 



each window. Can you see another group above these first 
ones, but each of different size, to give variety ? " 

They visited last the chapter-house, and found it to be 
octagonal in shape, with no central pillar. The windows 



98 NORTHERN EUROPE 

were very fine. Miss Gray said she had read somewhere 
that it is considered one of the best in the land. 

Before leaving York, Mr. Cartmell took an excursion to 
see Fountain's Abbey. Florence, Miss Gray, and Mr. French 
went with him. They found these picturesque ruins in the 
grounds of the Marquis of Ripon, and not less than three 




Nave and West Window in Lincoln Cathedral. 

miles from the main public road. These extensive pleasure- 
grounds were elaborately laid out, with trimmed hedges, par- 
terres, ponds, statuary, and small temples. '^ You see here, 
Florence," said Mr. Cartmell, "how the nobility of England 
live." The ruins, when reached at last, were found to be very 
complete, finely preserved, but not as finely ornamented and 
picturesque as some others in other parts of this country. 

. Lincoln came next in order. When they came in sight of 
the cathedral, the children exclaimed, " How much the three 
square towers remind one of York Minster ! " 

They afterwards learned that the central ox rood tower 



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was much higher in the Lincohi Cathedral than in York 
Minster. Miss Gray said, " It is 300 feet high, the highest 
without a spire in all England." At 12 o'clock the Cartmell 
party heard "■ Great Tom " in this tower strike, with a grand 
majestic sound solemn and slow, in the key of A. Looking 
at the eastern side, they saw many gables, doubled buttresses, 
pointed arches, and brackets. Upon the latter stood fine 
statues. 

" I declare," remarked Mrs. Cartmell, " it does seem as if 
these builders could turn stone into airy lace." 

The west side 
was not exactly the 
same, but was very 
beautiful. On en- 
tering, they first 




Lincoln Cathedral. 



walked through the 
nave. Fred was 
pleased to obtain 
an excellent photo- 
graph of this part, 

showing the pointed arches with the clustered columns, the 
aisle on one side, and the clerestory above. The choirs gen- 
erally found in cathedrals are plainly seen in the picture, 
arranged just as Fred found them, in the nave. The roof in 
this cathedral, they learned, was of stone. 



102 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Passing into the transept, Mr. French called their atten- 
tion to the great round windows, one of which he said was 
called the bishop's eye, and the other the dean's eye. The 
latter was a good specimen of an Early English window of 
about 1200. It was a wheel instead of a rose window. It 
showed to perfection plant-tracery. The stone- work was light 
and graceful. The sashes formed an arabesque. The color 
of the glass was fresh, and very rich in ruby, emerald, sap- 
phire, and other tints. 

Miss Gray several times called the children's attention to 
the wonderful carving in wood seen in the chancel and choir. 
She admired the choir screen, but considered it inferior to the 
one at York. 

Half a day was spent in visiting the famous Peterborough 
Cathedral. This building, they learned, was noted for its 
three large Gothic arches in the western portico. They were 
each 80 feet high, supported by flanking towers. Miss Gray 
thought " they had more to do with heaven than earth." The 
nave was very long and narrow, very massive, but plain to 
baldness when compared with the two cathedrals already ex- 
amined. ''This cathedral," said Mr. French, "shows us a 
combination of the four great styles of architecture. The 
walls and apse are plain Norman ; the windows are some of 
them in Early English, or the pointed style, others are Deco- 
rated ; i.e., either flowing or geometric ; while the fan-vaulting, 
which we admired so much in the chapel, is Perpendicular. 
The last three styles, please remember, are subdivisions of the 
Gothic." 

On their way to Cambridge in the afternoon, the Cart- 
mells stopped a few hours to see the cathedral in Ely, noted 
as the most individual and varied architectural church in 
England. 

Miss Gray read what Wolcott says about this Ely Cathe- 
dral : — 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 103 

" The clioir and octagon can never be forgotten. In them we see 
ihe most exquisite copy of nature, the bossy vaulting like a starry, deep 
blue sky, the shafted pillar like the moulded stem, the pointed arch like 
the petals of summer flovirers." 

View on the Cam. 




Old Court, Trinity College, Cambridge. 

As the Cartmells approached Cambridge, they noticed that 
the country became very level, but well timbered. They could 
trace the rivers by the rows of trees on their sides. As this 
was the first university town visited, two or three days were 
spent here. 

In riding about Cambridge, the coachman drove the Cart- 



104 NORTHERN EUROPE 

mells past many interesting buildings, such, as the Senate 
House, King's College, Library, the gateway of Trinity, etc. 

In the market-place he pointed out where Hobson's con- 
duit formerly stood. " Hobson," he said, " was mentioned by 
Milton. He was a carrier, and very kind to his horses. He 
made it a rule that every animal should have an equal portion 
of rest and labor. If a man who came to hire a horse would 
not take the one assigned to him, he had to go without, hence 
the saying, ' Hobson's choice ; ' i.e., this or none." 

In the afternoon the carriage was exchanged for boating 
on the celebrated river, the Cam. They found that it wound 
through the town, and by several of the colleges, with their 
ivied walls, splendid towers and buttresses. Along its banks 
they saw many smooth lawns, shelving to the water under 
venerable trees. Now and then they passed under some gray 
old bridge. 

During the evening, Mr. Cartmell called the children alfeut 
him, and Nellie found her favorite seat on her father's lap. 

" What is a university ? " Fred inquired. 

" Well, my boy, it is in England a collection of colleges, 
just as a county is a collection of towns. A college is like a 
town, a university like a nation ; or the colleges are the dif- 
ferent States, and the university the Union." 

'fWho is this fellow called the senior wrangler?" George 
asked. 

" He is the one who passes the best examinations in 
mathematics. The candidates for examinations meet in the 
Senate House some time in January. The papers, wet from 
the press, are handed to the men, who work on them for three 
days. About the last of January the students assemble in 
the same hall ; a proctor appears with a list of those who 
have gained honors. As soon as the clock strikes, he reads, 
< Senior AVrangler, Strutt of Trinity.' Then the friends shout, 
cheer, and fling up their hats, and some go rushing out upon 



ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 105 

the street calling out ' Strutt, Strutt ! ' When order is re- 
stored, the name of the second wrangler is read. There is 
another burst of cheering and shouting, and so on. Then the 
printed lists are freely scattered about by the proctors from the 
galleries, on the heads of those below. After this follows a great 
rush and scramble, to get possession of one of these lists." 

The following day Miss Gray was anxious to visit the 
college where Milton, Newton, and Bacon graduated. They 
all followed her to Trinity, one of the noblest of colleges. 
Passing beneath the portal, she pointed out to them the statue 
of Henry VIII., and then they came into the most spacious 
quadrangle in the world. On the north side of this interior 
court stood the chapel, with several tall windows ; on the west 
side they saw the master's lodge, and the lofty Gothic hall 
with a high-peaked Flemish roof. The other spaces are filled 
in with dormitories. 

George learned that one single staircase in this court leads 
to six sets of rooms, in which have lived and studied such 
noted men as Newton, Lord Lyndhurst, Macaulay, Thackeray, 
and Tennyson. In the centre of this quadrangle was the 
stone fountain, near which stands a curious sun-dial. The 
lawn was smooth and soft as velvet. 

All the grounds of Trinity College were especially beauti- 
ful. In one place they saw a fine avenue of lime-trees, so 
high and gracefully arched as to suggest Gothic art ; in an- 
other a splendid row of chestnuts. 

Tennyson wrote of his college : — 

" I passed beside the reverend walls 

In which of old I wore the gown ; 
I roamed at random through the town, 
And saw the tumult of the halls." 

They visited the hall where the men are obliged to dine, 
with portraits of noted graduates looking down upon them. 



106 NORTHERN EUROPE 

They also visited the university library, which contains impor- 
tant manuscripts as well as books, and King's College Chapel, 
with the vast nave and soaring roof and colored glass. 

On their way to London Mr. Cartmell told some anec- 
dotes about college honors which interested the children very 
much : — 

Senior wrangler is given almost entirely for successful examina- 
tions in tlie liiglier mathematics. Many noted men have carried off 
this prize, such as Paley, Herschel, and Adams. Martyn, who gained 
the honor at twenty, said, "I obtained my highest wishes, and was sur- 
prised to find that I had grasped a shadow." Another one said that 
the principal element in his satisfaction was the thought of the pleas- 
ure it would give his family and his father. It is said that one senior 
wrangler, upon entering a place of amusement at the same time as 
George IV. and hearing a cheer, rose up and bowed, taking it as a 
compliment to himself. 

In 1845 there were two candidates for senior wrangler; but the 
favorite was Thomson of Peterhouse, a noted scientific man even when 
in college. At last a new man was talked about, and it was thought 
strange that he should have the courage to appear in opposition to 
Thomson. The new man, Parkinson, had been practising in reference 
to speed, or space, for six months. At the trial the latter performed so 
many more problems than the former in the allotted time that he won 
the great honor of senior wrangler. But afterwards Thomson carried 
off the Smith prize, beating Parkinson three to two. 



CHAPTER VI 



LONDON, FROM CHARING CROSS TO 
TEMPLE BAR 

The Cartmells stopped in London at the Metropole, an 
elegant hotel near Charing Cross, in the very centre of the 
great city. In this class of English hotels, there is more of 
style than of home comfort. When Mr. Cartmell led his 

family into the snmptn- 
ous dining-room for the 
»s.|^„ six o'clock tahle-cV hote, 




National Gallery, Trafalgar Square. 



Hotel Metropole. 



he was not surprised 
to find the tables hand- 
somely set with flow- 
ers, glass, and elegant china, the ladies and gentlemen in full 
evening dress as if ready for a ball, the vie?m in French, and 
the servants most obedient and well-trained, while the food 
was of the best quality. 

There were eight courses, and eight changes of dishes, 
lasting one hour and a half. In the evening all the Cart- 
mells gathered together in their private parlor to consult 
maps, and make plans for the morrow. 

107 



108 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



"Now, children," said Mr. French, ''I will give you a 
sketch map of this big city. Let that dot near the centre of 
this piece of paper represent the situation of our hotel, which 
I show by the letter M. A short distance from here flows the 
Thames River, curving away towards the east. The histori- 
cal, commercial, and most interesting part of London is north 
of the river ; the much less important, the portion for resi- 
dence and small industries, is south of the river. 

" The northern part may be subdivided into the East End 
and the AVest End, Temple Bar being the dividing line. Each 



NORTH 1 SIDE 






WEST W^ 




c 


EAST 


END 

Ma 

ffoteL MeA^opoU' // 


^^^^^ 


END 


^ M i 

^^^^^^^^/ SOUTH 1 SI DE 






"""^-^^^^^^.^^^^ 


1 







Sketch Map of London. 



of the Ends is again subdivided so as to make an East Cen- 
tral and a AVest Central part. The East Central is the money- 
rtialzing section, where we shall find the Port, the Docks, the 
Custom House, the Bank, Exchange, etc. The East End con- 
tains A¥hitechapel, Mile End Road, and 'the submerged poor 
of London.' 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 109 

"The western part of London, north of the river, spends 
Tnoney, makes laws, and sets the fashions. Here, within a 
short distance of this room, we shall find Westminster Abbey, 
the Houses of Parliament, Government Offices, the palace of 
the Queen, the clubs, museums, picture-galleries, theatres, the 



VTESr 
END 




Fred's Map of London. 



mansions of the aristocracy, parks, etc. Most of these make 
the part called West Central. The West End is largely the 
home of the wealthy and the nobility." 

Mr. French's simple map helped the children to carry in 
their heads a general idea of this vast city. 

"Now let us find out," said Mr. Cartmell, "some facts 
about London. How large is it, George ? " 

" The guide-book says, that it covers 78,000 acres, or 122 
square miles." 

" What is the population ? " 

" About 5,000,000," replied Nellie. " It is, therefore, the 
largest city in the world." 

"That is about the same number as live in New England," 



110 NORTHERN EUROPE 

said her father. " The annual increase is about 70,000. 
What city is second ? " 

" Greater New York ! " exclaimed Fred. 

'' The third ? " 

" Paris." 

" Who can give some more interesting facts ? " 

" London contains," said Florence, " 800,000 houses ; 
about 14,000 new houses are built every year." 

Fred added, " The streets put end to end would reach 
from London to Boston, 3,000 miles. These streets are 
lighted by a million gas-lamps ; they are guarded by 15,000 
policemen ; the cabmen in the streets number also 15,000." 

"■ I have heard it said," added Mr. French, " that there 
are more Scotchmen in London than in Edinburgh, more 
Irishmen than in Dublin, more Jews than in Palestine, and 
more Catholics than in Rome." 

" What do you propose to do to-morrow ? " asked Miss 
Gray. 

" I believe we shall be be^'t pleased with a ride through 
some of the busy centres and busy streets of this most busy 
city." 

In the morning Mr. Cartmell hired a drag, a long, high, 
four-wheeled carriage, something like an American tally-ho 
coach. Mounted on the top of this vehicle, they could all see 
the scenes in the streets and the buildings on each side. 

A very short ride from the Metropole brought them to the 
first of these busy centres, namely, 

CHARINa CROSS AND TRAFALGAR SQUARE.^ 

" Why is the square so called ? " Nellie asked. 
" Because the name was given in honor of England's great 
hero, Lord Nelson, whose statue you see on the top of that 

1 See page 107. 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR HI 

high column. He gained a great naval victory over the com- 
bined French and Spanish fleets at Trafalgar, off the coast of 
Spain, in 1805." 

They also noticed, near the Nelson column, statues to Gen- 
eral Gordon, who lost his life not many years ago in the 
Soudan, in Central Africa, to Henry Havelock, India's Chris- 
tian hero, and to Sir Charles Napier, a great soldier. 




Whitehall, Looking towards Westminster, 



" What equestrian statue is that ? " asked Florence. 

" That is a statue of George IV.," replied Miss Gray, her 
governess. 

" What is that large building on the north side of the 
square ? " Miss Gray inquired. 

"That is the National Gallery. It contains a very large 
and excellent collection of pictures, which we will visit on the 
first convenient day." 



112 



Northern Europe 



As they made their way southward, the driver pointed out 
tlie exact spot where the Cross in Charing formerly stood. 

" Why is it called Charing Cross ? " Fred asked. 

" In honor of the remains of Eleanor, the beloved wife of 
Edward I.," replied Miss Gray. " She died in the northern 
part of England, and her husband bore the remains to West- 
minster Abbey. Every evening the bier rested in the market- 
place of some town ; and where it rested, Edward erected a 
beautiful cross. The last evening before her burial the bier 
rested in the village of Charing, a place just a little south of 




Horse Guards, London. 



what is now called Trafalgar Square. Here you now see the 
equestrian statue of Charles I." 

'' What became of the original cross ? " 

" It w^as pulled down by the Puritans. A reproduction 
of it can be seen now in front of the Charing Cross Station. 



114 NORTHERN EUROPE 

The regicides who condemned Charles I. were executed on 
this very spot in 1660." 

Passing through Whitehall Street, much of historical inter- 
est was called up by the older members of the party. On the 
left was first noticed the Admiralty Building, where the first 
Lord of the Admiralty lives comfortably on $20,000 a year. 

" This street," said Mr. French, '' passes through the 
palace grounds of Wolsey. After his fall it came into the 
hands of Henry VIII., in 1529. In Shakespeare's ' Henry 
VIII.' you can read all about these events. In this palace the 
king secretly married the beautiful Anne Boleyn. Elizabeth 
lived as queen at Whitehall. James I. rebuilt the Banquet- 
ing Hall. In front of this Charles I. was beheaded. 

''Cromwell lived here, and here he died in 1658. Here 
Charles II. revived, and carried on the grossest festivities. 
Here James II. washed the feet of the poor. In 1698 the 
palace was destroyed by fire, except the beautiful Banqueting 
Hall, which now stands on the east side of the street." 

On the west side of the street they soon saw the building 
known as the Horse Guards. On each side of the entrance 
usually sits a mounted cavalry soldier as guard. 

They were just in season to see the guard relieved, which 
takes place every morning at a quarter to eleven. There 
were many other spectators. The soldiers marched and 
counter-marched, in all their gorgeous military accoutrements, 
through the parks and neighboring streets. 

Beyond the Horse Guards they saw the large Treasury 
Building, containing also the Education Office and Board of 
Trade. Just beyond this building is a short street called 
Downing Street ; on the south side of this street they came to 
the new pile of buildings in the Italian style, called the Gov- 
ernment Offices, where is to be found England's Home Office, 
Foreign Office, Colonial Office, etc. 

" On Downing Street," said Mr. Cartmell, '' is the official 



116 NORTHERN EUROPE 

home of the prime minister. The cabinet room is a hand- 
some, well-lighted apartment, in Avhicli have presided Lord 
North, Pitt, Palmerston, Beaconsfield, Gladstone, and others, 
over deliberations which shaped national legislation, and 
determined the destiny of one of the greatest nations in the 
world." 

Whitehall Street leads into Parliament Street, a very- 
short avenue. aSTew Scotland Yard is on the river side of this 
street. It is the headquarters of the metropolitan police. 
"This system of controlling the city," remarked Mr. French, 
" was established in 1829 by Sir Eobert Peel's government ; 
hence London boys called the police ' Peelers,' or ' Bobbies,' 
after the last and first names of the founder. This place 
is called Scotland Yard because the old building at the head 
of Whitehall Street was a London residence for Scottish 
kings." 

Parliament Street leads to Parliament Square, the 
second centre of life and bustle, and from which the Cartmell 
party saw a number of very interesting buildings. 

Prom pictures seen long before, they recognized first the 
Houses of Parliament. The great clock-tower rose directly 
before them to the height of 320 feet. 

" What sound is that ? " Florence asked. 

" It is Big Ben," said Mr. French ; " the bell near the 
top of the tower, striking the hour. This clock is one of the 
largest and finest in the world. It takes a man ten hours a 
week just to wind it up. The dials of this clock are 22 feet 
in diameter. Big Ben is nine feet and six inches in diame- 
ter, and weighs over fifteen tons." 

Mr. Cartmell now called their attention to a building 
almost exactly west of them, called Westminster Hall. 

" It forms," he said, " a part of the new Parliament Build- 
ings, and is used as a grand passageway to the interior of 
the Houses of Parliament. You are looking at the eastern 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 117 

end, and notice that there is a large window flanked by square 
towers. 

"There is apparently nothing more of especial interest 
about the interior of the hall. Please look up to the edge of 
that sharp gable. On it were fastened for thirty years three 




The Strand, London. 



human heads often mentioned in history; viz., the head of 
Ireton, the son-in-law of Cromwell, that of Bradshaw, president 
of the court of justice which condemned to death Charles I., 
and between them the head of Cromwell himself." 

Moving to the front of St. Margaret's Church, they saw 
for the first time a side view of Westminster Abbey. It was 
not necessary to tell even Nellie what building it was, as the 
whole party recognizee!, it from the pictures previously seen 
and studied. The appearance at first of this noble edifice 



118 NORTHERN EUROPE 

was rather disappointing, but Mr. French told them to sus- 
pend judgment till they had seen the front faqade. 

In order to obtain a better view of the Parliament Houses, 
they drove across Westminster Bridge, turned, and slowly 
came back. The view from this point is always satisfactory, 
as the building stretches along the river for 940 feet. 

Returning to Charing Cross, the Cartmells turned towards 
the east, and entered the Strand, one of the busiest thorough- 
fares in the world. It is crowded from early morning until 
past midnight. It is the locality of the principal London 
theatres, of the law courts, the Inland Eevenue Departments, 
of many newspaper offices, and numerous shops. 

The first thing they noticed on the right was the Char- 
ing Cross Station, and hotel situated over the station, an 
arrangement quite common in Europe. In front of this build- 
ing Miss Gray pointed out the cross, which is supposed to be 
a copy of the original one erected to Queen Eleanor by 
Edward I. 

The Golden Cross Hotel, on the opposite side of the street, 
was once a noted hostelry ; and Dickens describes how Mr. 
Pickwick was assailed here by a hackney coachman, and pro- 
tected by Mr. Jingle. 

" Why is this street called the Strand ? " Nellie asked in 
her usual inquiring way. 

" Because," replied Mr. French, " this was the road nearest 
to, or following, the shore, or strand, of the Thames River. 
Between this street and the river formerly stood the town 
houses of the bishops, the ambassadors, and the powerful 
nobility. Beautiful gardens surrounded them, and against 
the walls of gardens and houses flowed the silver waters of 
the Thames. Most of these fine buildings have been de- 
stroyed, and only the names are left in streets and courts. 
Northumberland House was. the last of these grand mansions 
to be torn down. On its site now stands the Grand Hotel, 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 119 



opposite where we are staying. We just passed Craven 
Street, where Franklin lived when in London.'' 

As the carriage slowly passed along, Mrs. Cartmell called 
the attention of the young people to the variety of faces to be 
seen in this street, not merely the faces of different nationali- 
ties, but faces showing by the expression so many different 
grades of life. 

'' At one time I see faces which indicate high social stand- 
ing, manly culture, and great business ability on the part of 
the men, beauty and luxury on the part of the women ; then, 
beside these, I see many faces which bear the appearance of 
loneliness, anxiety, sorrow, and poverty. By them are hurry- 
ing past faces bearing upon them the marks of vice, shame, 
and wickedness." 

George and Fred 
were more interested 
in the different vehi- 
cles, such as hansom 
cabs, omnibuses, etc. 

Villiers, Bucking- 
ham, George, and Bed- 
ford Streets reminded 
Miss Gray of many 
historical facts. Soon 
they turned to the left, 
and visited Co vent 

Garden Market, which derived its name from Convent Gar- 
den of Westminster. The present market-house was built in 
1830. Mr. Cartmell said the best time to see the place was 
about six o'clock in the morning. At that time the display 
of fruit and flowers was very remarkable, as fully described 
by Dickens in " Old Curiosity Shop." 

The party then drove through Russell Street, and by the 
site of the coffee-house in which Addison, Johnson, Garrick, 




Hansom Cab, in London. 



120 NORTHERN EUROPE 

and other great Englislimeu, frequently met for conversation. 
Returning to the Strand, they passed Exeter Hall, which has 
been so often referred to in the papers as the place for great 
mass-meetings. 

" Wellington Street," said the driver, " leads to Waterloo 
Bridge." 

On the right-hand side of the Strand they next found the 




The New Law Courts, on the left. 

celebrated Somerset House, once a palace occupied by the wives 
of several kings, by Charles I., etc. They found the present 
building was very beautiful on the outside, in pure Italian 
style. The building is now occupied by several government 
offices, especially by the office of wills and probate. Here 
Mr. Cartmell showed his children the original wills of Shake- 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 121 

speare, Dr. Johnson, Sir Isaac Newton, and some other great 
men. 

Eeturning to the Strand, the party soon came to a church 
standing in the centre of the street, and called St. Mary's. 
" It occupies the site," said Miss Gray, "of the famous May- 
pole, which was destroyed in the time of the Commonwealth 
as a remnant of heathenism. The Maypole was afterwards 
replaced, and four thousand school-children sang a hymn as 
Queen Anne passed in procession." 

A little farther on in the street is another church, called 
the Church of St. Clement Danes. It has one of Wren's 
characteristic spires. "To this church," Mr. French said, 
" Dr. Johnson regularly came, and read the responses with 
great energy." 

" What great building is that ? " Florence asked, as soon 
as they passed the church. 

"That," said Mr. Cartmell, "is the Royal Courts of 
Justice. It was opened by Queen Victoria in 1882. The 
cost of the land and the building was about eleven million 
dollars. The size of the building may be judged, when I tell 
you that it contains a large central hall, nineteen court-rooms, 
and eleven hundred chambers or apartments." 

"Why do they have so many chambers ? " 

" To accommodate the lawyers, and students of law, who 
live in the building, as persons live in a college." 

" The extension of the Strand," said Miss G-ray, " is called 
Fleet Street, named after the creek Fleet, which formerly 
flowed into the Thames at this point." 

" A part of this little river," added George, " I learned 
from my guide-book, is now arched over, and forms one of 
the main sewers of the city." 

" AVhere is ' Temple Bar ' ? " Florence inquired. 

" It stood just where we are now passing," replied her 
father ; " at the point where the Strand ended and the new 



122 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



street began. It was an old city landmark, stone, or bar, 
which separated the city of London from the city of West- 
minster." 

" I don't see anything like a gate or bar ! " exclaimed 
Nellie. 

" Of course not ; for it was torn down in 1878 because it 




Temple Bar, 1877. 



blocked up the highway. I will show you a picture of it 
when we return. 

" But the persistent English set up this Memorial of 



FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 123 



Temple Bar in 1880, wliich obstructs travel about as much 
as the original and historical gate." 

" Why do you call the Bar so historical ? " inquired Fred. 

" Because it is so often mentioned in English history and 
literature. When the sovereign of the kingdom approached 
the city of London the bar was closed, and a herald knocked 
at the gates, asking for admission ; after a short delay the 
gates were thrown open, and a sword and the keys of the city 
were presented to the sovereign. Queens Elizabeth, Anne, 
Victoria, and other 
sovereigns have thus 
knocked for admis- 
sion. Queen Victoria 
knocked at the Me- 
morial in June, 1897, 
during Jubilee Week. 

"It was on this 
bar that the heads 
and bodies of con- 
spirators and rebels 
were exposed. By 
this bar Daniel De 

Foe sat in a pillory on account of his writings against the 
government, and the people showed their sympathy for him 
by covering him with flowers." 

The party then returned to their hotel for luncheon, stop- 
ping on the way to visit Dickens's famous Old Curiosity 
Shop, now occupied by a ''job stationer." 




Old Curiosity Slwp. 



CHAPTER iX 

FROM TEMPLE BAR ROUND TO 
CHARING CROSS 

After luncheon, while the older people rested a short 
period, Miss Gray and the children drew on sheets of paper 
a progressive map of Points of Interest in London seen 
by the Cartmell family. It was enlarged and filled in, as far 
as they had gone, from Mr. French's map. Each day some 




Fleet Street and St. Dunstan's, London. 



new places of interest were added. Each of the children had 
a copy. Fred's is shown on page 109 as it appeared when 
completed. 

124 



126 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Then they drove back through the Strand to Temple Bar. 

"This is the street," said Miss Gray, referring to Meet 
Street, " which was loved so much both by Charles Lamb and 
Dr. Johnson. The latter lived here, or in courts leading from 
the street, most of his life." 

" Here is Chancery Lane," said Mr. Cartmell, " where so 
many of the legal profession still live. At the corner once 
lived Iza,ak Walton, who loved to go a-fishing." 

" What church is that on the left ? " 

" It is St. Duustan's," said the driver. 

" Baxter used to preach there," added Miss Gray. 

"What a funny name the next street has. Fetter Lane!" 
exclaimed Fred. 

" The name comes," said his father, " from faitors, or beg- 
gars, who formerly infested this quarter. Near here once 
lived Praise God Barebone and his son Damned Dr. Barebone. 
The father was a leather-dresser, and leading member of the 
Parliament under Cromwell, which is often called Barebone's 
Parliament. 

" ' Shoe Lane ' commemorates the trade once so common 
there. 

"This wider street is Farringdon, which shoAvs exactly 
where Fleet Creek flowed towards the Thames. On Farring- 
don Street, not far away, stood the famous Fleet Prison, 
whither victims of the Star Chamber were sent. Afterwards 
it was used as a prison for debtors. Above its entrance was 
the figure ' 9 ; ' hence a polite way of addressing persons in 
prison was to ' No. 9 Fleet Street.' " 

" This prison," added Miss Gray, " is vividly described by 
Dickens in his 'Pickwick Papers.'" 

" The crossing of Farringdon and Fleet Streets," said Mr. 
French, " is called ' Ludgate Circus.' The latter word is com- 
mon in London for such places. One of the six city gates 
stood here." 



128 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Here the party obtained their first view of St. Paul's, 
more or less obscured by the railway bridge aud the slender 
steeple of St. Martin's. Passing under the bridge, they as- 
cended a slight elevation called Ludgate Hill, and reached the 
noble cathedral. 

" How high are those two towers ? " inquired Nellie. 

" As high as Bunker Hill Monument," replied Mr. French. 




Choir in St. Paul's Cathedral, London. 



" How high is the cross over the dome ? " 

" About the same as the height of the dome in our Capitol 
at Washington, 370 feet." 

"This place," said Mr. Cartmell, "is the third centre of 
bus)/ life seen to-day." 

They left the carriage here for a short time, both to rest 
and also to see the interior of the great ciiurch. They found 
this part very imposing, on account of its size. Mrs. Cart- 
mell Avas disappointed because it was not more beautiful, like 
the other Gothic cathedrals which they had seen the week 



TO CHAKTNG CROSS 

before. Some one quoted from Carlyle, 
" This is the only edifice which strikes 
me witli a proper sense of grandeur." 

Fred had found out its greatest 
length as 650 feet. 

" I am surprised," exclaimed Miss 
Gray, "to find so many statues in the 
interior." 

The children discovered statues to 
English heroes, such as Henry How- 
ard, Lord Howe, Sir John Moore, Sir 
William Napier, General Gordon, and 
the Duke of Wellington. 

Florence asked, " Who built it, 
papa ? " 

'' Sir Christopher Wren, between 
1675 and 1710, a period of thirty-five 
years. It was built under one archi- 
tect, one master-mason, and one bishop. 
Wren received for his services $1,000 
a year. For this sum he was content 
to be hoisted in a basket, at great risk, 
to the top of the church, three times a 
week." 

They found his tomb in , 

the vault of the church. The 
epitaph is as follows: ''Read- 
er, if you seek his monument, 
look around." 

From St. Paul's the Cart- 
mells noAV proceeded east- 
ward through Cannon Street, 
which is said to be a cor- 
ruption of Candlewick Street, 




129 




130 NORTHERN EUROPE 

and in which the wax-chandlers once dwelt who supplied 
the Catholic churches with tapers, etc. 

"Where is the London Stone, driver?" inquired Mr. 
French. 

''It is now placed in the south end of St. Swithin's, the 
church yonder, opposite the railroad station." 

"The poet Dryden was married in that church," added 
Miss Gray. 

" For what was the stone noted ? " inquired George. 

"It has been for centuries the central stone in London, 
from which all distances were measured. If a town or city 
in the empire was so many miles from London, it always 
meant from this stone. For a thousand years it has marked 
off distances. It was formerly on the ground near by, and 
was affixed to the side of the church to preserve it." 

A short ride from Cannon Street brought them to the 
monument which Avas erected to the memory of the great 
lire of 1666. The children and Mr. French went to the top 
for the view. On account of the smoke hanging over the city, 
they could not see very far. The Thames River was the most 
conspicuous object. 

Upon reaching the summit of the monument, they found 
themselves completely wired in. Noticing their wonder, Mr. 
French explained, " A few years ago so many persons com- 
mitted suicide by throwing themselves from this place, the 
officials had to erect this screen to prevent their insane 
acts." 

As they descended and returned to the carriage, George in- 
formed his sisters that the great fire began in Pudding Lane, 
and after burning over many acres, and destroying 13,000 
houses, ended at Pye Corner. 

" Now for London Bridge ! ^ " exclaimed Florence.. 

"That will be," said Fred, "the next great centre of 
interest." i see Frontispiece. 



FROM TEMPLE BAR TO CHARING CROSS 131 

"You are riglit, my boy ! " exclaimed his father. 

In a few minutes tliey joined the vast crowd crossing and 
recrossiiig tliis oldest and most used of all the bridges over 
the Thames. 

" George, can you give us the facts about this bridge ? " 
Miss Gray asked. 

" It was built and opened in 1831. It consists of five 
arches, each of quite a long span. There is no draw in the 




The Bank of England. — Royal Exchange on Right. 

bridge. More than 25,000 vehicles and over 150,000 people 
cross it every twenty-four hours." 

After riding about a short time on the south or Surrey side 
of the river, they recrossed the bridge, noticing on their 
return the vast amount of shipping below the bridge, in 
"the Pool" as it is called, and the interesting view of the 
river above the bridge. 

King William Street, and its statue of William IV., in- 



132 NORTHERN EUROPE 

terested them as tliey moved rapidly by to the fifth point of 
life and bustle, the square in front of 

THE BANK OF ENGLAND. 

Near the corner of King William Street, and about oppo- 
site the great bank, they saw an imjDosing house. 

"That is the Lord Mayor's official mansion," Mr. French 
informed them. " He receives as much salary as our presi- 
dent, and his dutes are equally onerous. A recent Lord 
Mayor, in one year, was present at 130 dinners and 85 balls 
and receptions, attended 365 meetings, made 1,100 speeches, 
and answered 5,000 letters." 

Driving through the terrible throng of vehicles, especially 
omnibuses, the Cartmells finally reached the other side, and 
all alighted, the better to examine the greatest banking insti- 
tution in the Avorld. They found it was built of granite, in 
the Corinthian style. The outer walls are very thick, and con- 
tain no windows, to give greater security. The rooms, they 
found, were lighted from open courts and skylights. The 
building occupies from three to four acres of ground. 

Mr. French gave the children some interesting facts as 
they walked about, — 

''This institution is called 'The Old Lady of Thread- 
needle Street ' because it faces the latter street. The busi- 
ness done here in a day amounts to $10,000,000. In the 
vaults are always found from ten to twenty million sterling 
in gold and silver." 

".What do you mean by sterling ? " Fred asked. 

"Up to the value established by the English Government, 
full value." 

"Please tell us more about the bank." 

"This bank has out a very small value in bank-notes, most 
of the money being gold and silver, which the English people 



FROM TEMPLE BAR TO CHARING CROSS 133 

prefer to paper. Tlie smallest English bank-note is one for 
£5, or f 25. These paper bills are very simple in appearance, 
but very difficult to counterfeit. Every note which comes into 
the bank is at once cancelled, but registered and preserved. 




Mansion House, London. 



A new note, with a new number, takes its place in circu- 
lation. 

''When the riots of 1780 occurred, so graphically de- 
scribed by Dickens in ' Barnaby Rudge,' an order was given 
that a military guard be stationed in the bank every night 
until the order was revoked. The officer of the guard and 
his friends are supplied by the bank with a good dinner. 
The order has not yet been revoked. Several officers of the 
bank have residences inside. As there are a number of open 
courts here, it is not an unpleasant place in which to live. 
Besides the guard, there are a certain number of clerks from 



134 NORTHERN EUROPE 

the 900 needed to carry on the work, who sit up nightly to 
watch and patrol the building." 

Leaving the bank, Mr. Cartmell led the way across Thread- 
needle Street to the large building opposite, known as the 
Royal Exchange.^ In front of it they saw a line equestrian 
statue of the Duke of Wellington, at the east end, one of Mr. 
Peabody, the American multi-millionaire, and at the south 
side of the building another, in honor of Rowland Hill, who 
did so much to introduce cheap postage. 

Mr. French called their attention to the portico, or porch, 
on the west front. ''This is considered superior to anything 
of the kind in England. You can count seventeen large 
figures in the pediment. They represent Commerce, the Lord 
Mayor, and merchants of different nationalities. Beneath you 
read, 'The earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof.'" 

" Every afternoon," added Mr. Cartmell, "the rich bankers, 
like Mr. Rothschild and others, come here to transact busi- 
ness in millions." 

Mr. Cartmell then conducted them into a room in the in- 
terior of the building known as Lloyd's Subscription Rooms. 
" This is the greatest firm iu the world," he explained, " for 
shipping news, shipping business, and marine insurance." 

" All the underwriters," added Mr. French, " and every- 
body engaged in extensive shipping business, is a member or 
subscriber of Lloyd's. This firm is respected in every port. 
Its register classifies ships according to age, build, and sea- 
worthiness. A ship can be no better named than to be en- 
tered A 1 at Lloyd's." 

Re-entering the carriage, the Cartmells turned their faces 
westward, and rode slowly through Poultry Street, where 
Thomas Hood was born, into the better-known Cheapside, 
which means, the guide-book said, Market-Side. From this 
street they noticed several streets running to left and right, 

1 See p. 131. 



FROM TEMPLE BAR TO CHARING CROSS 135 



named after the dealers by whom each was occupied, as 
Bread, Milk, Wood, Honey, Poultry Streets, etc. 

A little way down King Street they found Guildhall, 
which dates from 1411. 
Here they saw those 
hideous giants, Gog and 
Magog, which were 
carved in 1708, and 
formerly were carried 
in city processions. 
There were also many 
statues to England's 
heroes. 

"Here," said Mr. 
French, "are held the 
Lord Mayor's annual 
banquets." 

" In this hall," said 
Miss Gray, " many per- 
sons have been tried and 
convicted of high trea- 
son. Among these were 
Lady Jane Grey, those 
connected with the 
Gunpowder Plot, etc." 

"Cheapside, you 
see," said Mr. Cart- 
mell, "is now a noted 
place for stores, or 
' shops ' as the British 
always call them. In 
the olden time the 

north side was not built up, and the land beyond was the 
scene of many festivities. Jliots often occijrred here, Wat 




St. Mary-le-Bow, Clieapside. 



136 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Tyler's mob beheaded many people in that open space. Here 
Jack Cade shed the blood of Lord Saye and Sale." 

"This street," said Miss Gray, "should remind the chil- 
dren of John Gilpin's famous tale. One verse reads : — 

"'Smack went the whip, round went the wheels, 
Were never folk so glad ; 
The stones did rattle underneath 
As if Cheapside were mad.' " 

The children also learned that Milk Street was famous 
as the birthplace of Sir Thomas More, who wrote " Utopia," 
and succeeded Wolsey as cardinal in the time of Henry 
VIII. ; and Bread Street looked upon the little baby boy who 
afterwards became John Milton. Eeaching the end of Cheap- 
side, the party were pleased to gaze once more upon the fine 
outline of St. Paul's Cathedral. From the same place they 
could look down Paternoster Eow, which has long been cele- 
brated as a centre and fount of English literature. Here are 
such firms as Bagster's, Blackwood's, Longman's, Nelson's, 
Chambers's, etc. 

" The first edition of ' Robinson Crusoe ' was published in 
that street, children," said Mr. French. 

One of the largest post-offices in the world is near this 
same part of London. 

The next street was Newgate, on the north side of which 
they saw Christ's Hospital, fenced in by tall iron gates and 
palings. Through these they saw some of the Blue-Coat 
boys. Mr. French surprised them by telling that many very 
noted English writers, as Charles Lamb, Coleridge, and Leigh 
Hunt, had been educated in that strange school. 

Mr. Cartmell then directed the driver to take them a few 
blocks to the north to see Smithfield, which was once outside 
of the city, and the place for tournaments, fairs, and the 
like. 



FROM TEMPLE BAR TO CHARING CROSS 13T 

<<Here," said Miss Gray, ''Avere burned the martyrs in tlie 
time of Queen Mary. The Mayor of London here slew Wat 
Tyler; and here were executed such men as Mortimer, who 
caused the death of Edward II., and Sir William AVallace the 
Scottish hero." 

The party found this place now covered over by a great 
market. 

Eeturning to Newgate Street, the Cartmells joined the 
great westward procession over Holborn Viaduct, which was 




Bolborn Viaduct- 



High Holborn. 



London. 



built in 1867 to bridge a deep valley. One side of the valley 
was called Snow Hill. 

" The poor and criminal," said Mr. Cartmell, " formerly 
lived in great numbers in this part of the city. Dichens 
described it in 'Oliver Twist' as the home of 'Fagan' and 
his class of pickpockets." 



138 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Did not the Saracen's Head Inn, mentioned several times 
in ' Nicholas Nickleby/ stand near this viaduct ? " asked 
Mrs. Cartmell. 

" Yes. It was the headquarters of Squeers when he came 
to London. It has been rebuilt since these improvements in 
the street have been made." 

In one place they noticed that a wide street ran under the 




Oxford Street, London. 



viaduct. Just beyond they entered Holborn Circus, where 
there is a good statue of the late Prince Consort. High Hol- 
born ^ is the name of the long and wide street extending still 
farther westward. 

" Let us now turn to the left," said Mr. Cartmell, " and 
visit Lincoln's Inn Fields, where years ago Lord William 
Russell was beheaded. Just before his execution, as he be- 

1 See p. 137. 



FROM TEMPLE BAR TO CHARING CROSS 139 

held the great crowd of people, he said, ' 1 hope I shall soon 
see a larger and better assembly.' " 

They found here now many large buildings, such as the 
Royal College of Surgeons, medical museums, libraries, etc. 
In one part of the Fields they saw many houses with outer 
staircases leading from the interior of the quadrangle to the 
different sets of chambers. 

" Papa, why is this place called ' Inn ' ? " ashed Florence. 

" Because the masters formerly received here pupils to 
study law, and these pupils resided and boarded Avith their 
law-teachers. One inn would often have a hundred students." 

Proceeding a little farther, and turning away to the right, 
brought the Cartmell party to a view of the British Museum, 
containing one of the largest and most valuable collections in 
the world. 

They did not stop to look at the endless treasures kept 
therein, but drove along through Ncav Oxford Street and the 
rookery of St. Giles, long known as one of the worst parts of 
London. 

" This dense mass of poor houses was cleared away when 
New Oxford Street was made," explained Mr. French. "■ A 
part of the same neighborhood," he continued, '' is '■ Seven 
Dials^' ' through which we are now passing. They were 
planned and built for wealthy tenants in the time of Charles 
II., but the number of clock faces is now reduced to two." 

The people seen on the streets were only those belonging 
to the very poorest sections, as shown by their faces and 
dress. 

The Cartmells returned home through Shaftsbury Street 
and Charing Cross Road. They found these to be newly 
opened and very wide thoroughfares, to accommodate the im- 
mense traffic northward from the river in this part of Lon- 
don. The boys pointed out several theatres on these streets, 
1 See p. 137. 



140 NORTHERN EUROPE 

and Mr. French showed them the handsome Palace Music 
Hall and a much-used public library. 

" What large building is that ? " asked Nellie. 

" That is one end of the National Gallery ; and we are 
once again at Trafalgar Square, and the loop route through 
some of the principal streets of London is complete." 



CHAPTER X 

"WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE 
PARLIAMENT HOUSES 

While the Cartmells were eating their breakfast in the 
Metropole the next inorning-r^Mr. French introduced Mr. Fors- 
ter, a member of the National School Board, to them, and 
the following conversation took place : — 

" Will you tell us, please, Mr. Forster, something about 
your system of education." 

" Certainly, with pleasure. The government supports 
about 40^ of the schools, and the churches about 60%." 

" Why, how difterent that arrangement is from the system 
in the States, where the private and parochial schools only 
amount to 10%." 

'•' In many places in England one-half the money is con- 
tributed by the general government ; the rest is raised by 
local taxes, and the pennies brought each week by the chil- 
dren." 

" How do you determine how much money to give any 
one school ? " 

" The amount of money per head depends upon the age, 
the studies taken, and the merit obtained. Seventeen shil- 
lings a year is the maximum amount granted in infant or 
primary schools. The inspectors decide on the merit of each 
school." 

" How does he do this ? " 

'' He visits the school, and examines the results of the 
work." 

'* Does he pay attention to the methods ? " 

141 



142 NORTHERN EUROPE 

'' None at all. He judges by the results of the oral 
and written examinations as given by a majority of the 
jDupils." 

" Does not this system lead to cramming ? " 

" Most certainly ; but most Englishmen like the idea of 
' payment by results ; ' it brings up the poor schools, and is 
very just and fair. Children go to school here very young. 
They know a good deal at five and six years of age. After 
this we have seven standards. Standard one meaning usually 
those between seven and eight, standard two those between 
eight and nine. All children must go to school here between 
five and thirteen, unless they pass the standards before. Par- 
ents are fined if their children do not attend regularly be- 
tween these ages." 

" What do you claim as the benefits of your system ? " 

" Painstaking drill, steady plodding, repetition, thorough- 
ness, and accuracy." 

"What can you tell me about the noted endowment 
schools ? " 

'' Eton, Rugby, Harrow, and Winchester are four great 
preparatory schools. They are strong in developing charac- 
ter and physical growth. The boys of the highest classes 
are monitors. The younger boys, those in the lower classes, 
wait or serve the elder students ; this is called fag (/in fj. Each 
of these schools is a boarding-school, with from 400 to 1,000 
pupils. Three-fourths of the time is still spent in Latin and 
Greek. 

"Men of wealth send their sons to Eton, where a mod- 
erate degree of scholarship will satisfy. Yet such men as 
Chatham, Fox, Peel, and Gladstone graduated there. Win- 
chester is patronized by the gentry, clergy, and professional 
men. A high degree of scholarship is required. Rugby, 
under the influence of Dr. Arnold's life, still makes prominent 
character, self-control, and a feeling of responsibility. 'The 




Westminster Abbey, Front View. 



144 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Sixth Porm ' boys are considered responsible for the conduct 
of the school." 

Mr. Cartmell thanked him for the information given, and 
he soon went to his place of business. 

After breakfast was finished the Cartmells voted not to 
ride, but to see some point of interest near their London home. 
Mrs. Cartmell desired first to visit her beloved abbey, and 
thither they all walked from the hotel. Mr, French advised 
them to approach the front of the edifice. 

"■ This view," said Mrs. Cartmell, " is much more satisfac- 
tory than the side view which we saw yesterday." 

As the Cartmells entered the sacred enclosure through 
the north transept, from the crowded and noisy streets sur- 
rounding the approaches, they could not help noticing the 
contrast. It seemed as if they had entered another world. 

Miss Gray repeated in hushed tones Kingsley's words, — 



"'All without is mean and small, 
All within is vast and tall ; 
All without is harsh and shrill, 
All within is hushed and still." 



Looking at their ground plan in the guide-book, the chil- 
dren soon identified the principal parts of the building, ^ — 
the nave, the choir, the transepts surrounded by aisles. 

'' Where is the usual east window, papa ? " Florence in- 
quired. 

" There is none. Its place is taken by the grand Chapel 
of Henry VII. ; but there is, you see, a fine western window." 

Passing to the right, Mrs. Cartmell pointed out to the 
children the many beauties and points of interest in this 
celebrated edifice. All admired in a general way the carved 
stalls, the clustered pillars, the pointed arches, and the 
vaulted roof. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PARLIAMENT HOUSES 145 

George was surprised to find so many statues in different 
parts of the interior. In one part he saw statues in honor of 
Cobden and Palmerston ; in another those in honor of Living- 
stone the traveller, and Sir John Herschel the great astrono- 
mer, besides many other noted Englishmen. 

Near the soutliwest corner of the nave Mr. Cartmell 




The Choir, Westminster. 

found an old oaken door, through which he led his wife. Miss 
Gray, and Mr. French, into the Jericho Chamber, and from 
that into the next room called the " Jerusalem Chamber." 
" It is so called," said Mr. Cartmell, " because the tapes- 
tries on the walls represent scenes in Jerusalem, and the 
cedar wainscot came from the Holy Land. This simple rec- 
tangular room, my friends, is very noted. From it was borne 
the body of Addison, at dead of night, to its last resting-place 
in the chapel of Henry VII. The body of Sir Isaac Newton 
was also carried from this room to the grave. Henry IV. 
died here. 



146 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" But this chamber is still more noted as the place where 
the common version of the Bible, called King James's version, 
was made. The revised version was also prepared here." 

" Is not this the room," asked Mrs. Cartmell, " where the 
sessions of the Westminster Assembly of divines have always 
been held ? " 

•' Yes. And this body of divines gave to the world the 
great Confession of Faith, and the Longer and Shorter Cate- 
chisms." 

The children were delighted to find in the south transept 
the Poets' Corner; about which thej^ had read so much before 
their visit to England. Here they saw many other visitors 
besides themselves. Florence soon discovered the tomb of 
Chaucer, "the father of English poetry," and beside it the 
grave of Spenser. They also discovered memorials to many 
noted men who were buried elsewhere. 

" Oh ! here is my dear Longfellow," said Nellie. 

" An American poet here ! " exclaimed Fred. 

" Yes," said Miss Gray. " He was and is extensively 
read in England, just as English poets are read in America." 

The children also found memorials in honor of Shakespeare, 
Milton, Goldsmith, Dr. Johnson, Thackeray, and Macaulay. 

" I thought Dickens was buried here," said George, after a 
fruitless search for his tomb. 

" He is," said Mr. French ; " I will show you his grave. 
Here it is, next to Addison's." 

A little farther on and they came to the eastern portion of 
the building. 

" See, there is the beautiful shrine of Edward the Con- 
fessor ! " exclaimed Mrs. Cartmell. 

Florence soon found where Eleanor the beloved wife of 
Edward I. was buried. Others discovered the graves of 
" Good Queen Maud," and several kings. 

Miss Gray led the children to where stands the noted Cor- 



148 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



ouation Chair of Edward III., wliicli contains the " Stone of 
Scone." 

'' Seated in this chair," she said, " all the sovereigns of 
England since Edward's day have been crowned." 

■ Then Mrs. Cartmell and Miss Gray, arm in arm, led the 
way into the most beantiful part of Westminster Abbey, 
namely, the Chapel of Henry VII. The walls are covered 
with tracery, and made into niches containing the statues of 
saints and martyrs. The ceiling shows what is called " fan 

tracery," which they had ad- 
mired in other buildings. 

"In this chapel," said 
Mrs. Cartmell, " stone has 
been deprived of its weight 
and density by the cunning 
hand of the workman, and 
suspended above as if by 
some magic force. Look at 
its airiness, elegance, and 
richness. Such beauty can 
never be overpraised ! " 

Much admiration was ex- 
pressed over the tomb of 
Henry VII., made of black 
marble, beautifully carved 
by an Italian artist. The 
effigies of the king and 
queen, said to be good 
portraits, in gilt bronze, 
recline upon the tomb. 

The children found 

many other royal tombs. 

They were especially interested in those to the memory of 

James I., Mary Tudor and Elizabeth, and Charles II. The 




Coronation Chair, Vt'estininster Abbey. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PARLIAMENT HOUSES 149 



two queens are buried together. George translated the Latin 
inscription as follows : " Consorts in reign and in sepulture, 
we sisters, Elizabeth and Mary, are sleeping in hope of the 
resurrection." 

Miss Gray pointed 
out the tomb of Eliza- 
beth's cousin, the beau- 
tiful Mary Queen of 
Scots, and told the 
reasons of her death. 
Mr. Cartmell and Mr. 
French had anecdotes 
to relate about many 
of the queens, princes, 
countesses, and the like, 
who are buried in this 
grand mausoleum. Mr. 
French told the story 
about Princess Anne, 
daughter of Charles I. 
" As she was dying, at 
four years of age, she 
was told to i^ray for 
those about her. 'I am 
not able to say my long 
prayer [the Lord's 
Prayer], but I will say 

my short one. " Lighten mine eyes, Lord, least I sleep the 
sleep of death."' This done, the little one gave up the ghost." 

From the Abbey Mr. Cartmell conducted his friends into 
the next building, Westminster Hall.^ This forms the grand 
entrance to the Houses of Parliament. It is often called the 
great hall of William Rufus, by whom the first hall was built. 

1 See p. 150. 




Chapel of Henry VII., Westminster Abbey. 



150 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Mr. Cartmell, in speaking about the history of the place, 
tokl his chihlren, — 

" Since the time of William Rufus, all the sovereigns of 
England were crowned here until after the reign of the last 
of the Georges, who gave in this hall, at the time of his cor- 
onation, one of the grandest banquets ever given in England. 

" This hall has been the scene of many noted trials. Sir 
William Wallace was tried and condemned here ; Sir Thomas 
More, the famous wit and statesman, here received his sen- 
tence of death. But the most noted trial was that of King 
Charles I. in 1649 : noted because for the first time a sov- 




Westminster Hall, the Entrance to the Houses of Parliament. 



ereign was tried and condemned in the same manner as if a 
common man." 

'' Why, I read about that in my French reader," said 
Florence. 

" This room was the scene," continued her father, '< of the 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PARLIAMENT HOUSES 151 

trial of Warren Hastings, so brilliantly pictured by Macaulay. 
Here Oliver Cromwell Avas inaugurated." 

Then the children began to examine this celebrated ban- 
queting-hall with new interest. They learned that it was 
very large, being 300 feet long and 70 Avide. It is thus one 
of the largest halls in tlie world, having a wooden ceiling Avith- 
out any supporting columns. The Avood in the roof is finely 
carved. Fred Avas interested in the statues of several kings 
found on one side. 

Turning to the left, our party passed into St. Stephen's 
Hall, lined with statues of celebrated English statesmen, and 
then into the Central Hall, Avhich separates the House of 
Commons from the House of Peers. 

While Avaiting here for their tickets to visit the two 
houses, Mr. French furnished some interesting facts about 
the Houses of Parliament. 

" This pile of buildings covers about eight acres of ground. 
Besides the Parliament chambers, Avhich Ave are soon to see, 
there are several official dwellings, eleven open courts, one 
hundred staircases, and eleven hundred apartments. This 
new palace is built of stone, in Avhat is called the ' Perpen- 
dicular' Gothic style. It was finished in 1840. 

"You remember there are three toAvers to the building. 
The clock-tower we have seen and considered. We are noAv 
standing under the central toAver, Avhich is much smaller, and 
someAvhat lower. At the end opposite the clock-tower is the 
large, beautiful square tower called the * Victoria tower,' con- 
taining the royal entrance, through Avhich the Queen passes 
Avhen she visits Parliament. 

" Through the robing-room she enters the royal gallery, 
the long sides of which are covered with great historic paint- 
ings, the ceilings panelled and gilded, and the floors richly 
paved in mosaics. From the latter room the Queen passes 
into the House of Peers to the throne Avhenever she opens or 



152 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



prorogues Parliament. This grand ceremony, however, does 
not take place very often." 

Mr. Cartmell having obtained the necessary tickets for his 
party, followed the guide first into the House of Commons. 
All were greatly sur- 
prised at its small size. 
Mr. French explained 
that the reason for that 
was the desire of the 




architect to make 
a room where 
everybody could 

House of Lords. hear. 

"It is not 
nearly as large as our House of Representatives at Washing- 
ton ! " exclaimed Miss Gray. 

"No," replied Mr. French; "but you can hear so much 
better in this room for that very reason. As only about three 
hundred members attend at one time, it answers fairly well 
for size." 

" Where do the spectators sit ? " 

" In that little gallery on your right." 

" What is that screen for ? " inquired Florence. 

"The women are allowed to sit behind it, and listen to the 
debates." 

This strange ciistom created considerable amusement. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PARLIAMENT HOUSES 153 

From their guide they learned that this room is lighted by 
gas-jets above the glass ceiling, and heated by warm air, 
"which comes in through the grated iron floor. The building 
is supposed to be fire-proof. The children noticed that the 
walls were panelled with oak two-thirds the way up. The oak 
is carved with armorial shields, pendants, etc. The speaker's 
chair is at the north end. Over it the reporters' gallery is 
situated. 

Mr. French explained what the members do when there is 
a "division in the House." 

" Those who vote ' Aye ' on the question put by the 
speaker pass out into the west lobby, and are counted as 
they go out ; and those who vote ' No ' go into the east 
lobby." 

" Please tell us, Mr. Guide," asked George, " how the 
parties sit ? " 

" Those in favor of the government sit on the right of 
the speaker, and those opposed on the left. The ministers 
sit on tliis front bench on the right." 

George was surprised to find that the members are not 
provided with desks, as is the case in Congress. Mr. Cart- 
mell told of his sitting once in the spectators' gallery, and 
listening to a discussion in the House. 

'•' I sat in the front middle part of the gallery. The 
speaker, with his wig on, sat in that chair. Mr. Gladstone, 
then prime minister, sat where I am sitting now, holding his 
hat on his knee. I saw him write a note with a pencil on 
a piece of paper placed on top of the hat. His son made a 
short speech. Then a member, who Avas evidently a confirmed 
bore, attempted to speak on some question in relation to 
Spain. His few friends near him cheered him on with cries 
of ' Hear ! Hear ! ' Most of the members tried to ' cough him 
down,' as we say. They groaned, cried, made all kinds of 
noises, like schoolboys, till the poor man was obliged to sit 



154 N^ORTHEKN EUROPE 

down, and put his hat on ; for most of the members when not 
addressing tlie speaker wear their hats in the House." 

Returning to the Central Hall, the Cartmells next entered 
the House of Peers, which they learned occupied about the 
southern half of the "New Palace," as the Houses of Parlia- 
ment are sometimes called. 

Fred looked up the dimensions in the guide-book, and 
learned that the room was somewhat larger than the House 
of Commons, being 90 feet long by 45 feet wide, and 45 feet 
in height. 

" Why, that makes a double cube ! " George exclaimed. 

This room is finished in oak, gold, and leather. The 
devices, armorial shields, and figures represent, in most cases, 
something connected with the kings and queens of the past. 
The floor, the guide pointed out, is divided into three parts, 
running from east to west. The upper or southern division 
is the " throne " for the sovereign to occupy when he or she 
prorogues Parliament in person. The chair of state resem- 
bles in outline the " coronation chair ; " but it is richly orna- 
mented with beautiful panels, bars, and sprays of roses, 
shamrocks, and thistles, and many other devices. Over the 
chair is a large and grand canopy. There are state chairs 
also for the Prince of Wales and Prince Consort. 

In the central part are placed on each side, on ascending 
steps, five lines of benches, covered with scarlet morocco 
leather, for the exclusive use of the peers. The northern or 
lower part is called the " bar." Here the speaker, members 
of the House of Commons, and the peers stand when sum- 
moned to attend her Majesty, as when the Queen's speech is 
read, or at prorogation. 

" At such times," said Mr. Cartmell, " the members of the 
House come in with a rush, in order to get good places. The 
Queen has often been amused with this spirited race." 

The bar is nothing but a dwarf screen. Before it culprits 
stand, and counsel plead. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. PARLIAMENT HOUSES 155 

The twelve lofty windows the children noticed were filled 
with painted glass, representing whole length figures of former 
sovereigns,, the ceiling being perfectly flat, and most profusely 
decorated with monograms, devices, symbols, etc., among which 
they could see tlie lion passant of England, the lion rampant 
of Scotland, and the harp of Ireland. 



CHAPTER XI 

AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 

Ix the evening the Cartmells were discussing the day's 
adventures, and talking about to-morrow's sight-seeing. 

'" Shall we ride or walk to-morrow ? " asked Mr. Cartmell. 
All were in favor of riding, so the drag Avas again ordered. 

" Where are you going, papa ? " Xellie inquired, as she 
stood holding his hand. 

" I think we will visit the parks, my dear. Did you know 
that they are called the ' drawing-rooms of the poor ' ? " 

Miss Gray thought a better name would be " day nurse- 
ries," or "• play-rooms." 

Mr. French said that in the heart of the East End a dis- 
used churchyard had been made into a park, and devoted to 
the enjoyment of the poor. The trees, fountains, ferneries, 
and flowers make it a place of living beauty. There are 
about three acres in it, and the poor people of the neighbor- 
hood are glad to visit such a place. The healthy influence of 
these parks and open places upon the people are only second 
to that of the public schools. 

A short ride carried the Cartmells from Hotel Metropole 
to Charing Cross, and then into the Mall, a wide street with 
several rows of trees. On the left they could see St. James's 
Park, south of the old palace. 

'' In this brick building Charles I. slept the night before 
his execution," said Miss Gray. 

" This place," said Mr. Cartmell, " was once a marshy 
meadow. Henry VIII. caused the marsh to be drained, sur- 
rounded by a wall, and changed into a deer-park." 

15G 



AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 



157 



Through the trees they caught glimpses of the strip of 
water sometimes called a "canal." Miss Gray told the chil- 
dren that the shortest way from the Mall to Westminster 
Abbey is to cross the little bridge over this so-called canal. 

"What is that large building, Mr. French, in front of us, 
up the Mall ? " inquired Fred. 

" That is Buckingham Palace. This Avide street leads 
from the government offices and many fashionable clubs to 
this recent palace. 

On levee and draw- 

ing-room days the i 

street is thronged ; 

with gay carriages, | 

whose occupants are \ 

proceeding to pay 
their respects to roy- 
alty. The hour for J^"^ 
this performance is I ^. 
from one to two 
o'clock P.M." 

The Cartmells had now driven directly in front of the 
palace. As they sat looking at the building. Miss Gray re- 
minded the children that this was the early and happy town 
home of Queen Victoria. Here were born the princess royal 
and the Prince of Wales. 

" The palace now forms," said Mr. Cartmell, " after the 
additions in 1846, a large quadrangle. The Queen's rooms 
are on the north side, overlooking Green Park. The first 
floor contains several noted rooms, such as the Green Draw- 
ing-Room, Throne Room, Grand Saloon, State Ball-R-oom, 
Picture Gallery, etc. These rooms are finished in satin and 
gilding, with richly decorated ceilings ; and on the walls are 
hung many fine pictures by noted masters." 

"Since the death of Prince Albert in 1861," added Mr. 




Buchingliaiii Palace. 



158 KORTHERX EUROPE 

French, ''the drawing-rooms have been held at Buckingham 
Palace instead of at St. James's Palace." 

" What do you mean by a drawing-room ? " inquired 
Florence. 

" Oh ! Miss Gray can tell you better than I can." 

" What is it, Miss Gray ? " 

" A young lady of the higher ranks is not considered as 
having been properly introduced into society till she has been 
presented at Court. This takes place at one of these august 
ceremonies called the ' Queen's Drawing-Room.' After that 
she enters on a round of balls, concerts, and other gayeties, in 
the fashionable world. In a ' drawing-room ' will be seen 
members of the Queen's family, richly dressed ladies, gentle- 
men magnificent in gold-laced uniforms, noted officials, lack- 
eys in rich liveries, etc." 

Mr. Cartmell, during this conversation, had been riding 
slowly by the vast buildings which make up Buckingham 
Palace, and along beside Green Park. The latter consists 
largely of greensward, with some fine trees and flower-beds 
in the northwestern corner. The street through which the 
party were now passing rises somewhat, and is called " Con- 
stitution Hill." 

"Here," said Miss Gray, "three attempts have been made 
by crazy persons to shoot the Queen." 

The Cartmells soon arrived at " Hyde Park Corner," or 
the southeast corner of Hyde Park. Passing under the 
handsome gateway, they were ushered at once into this famous 
parade-ground of aristocracy and democracy. They were for- 
tunate in reaching the place a little after twelve o'clock, when 
the fashionable people take their morning airing. On the 
southern side of the park is a wide street called Rotten Row, 
leading to one of the southern gates, about a mile away. As 
this road is only used by those on horseback, the Cartmells 
alighted from their carriage, and occupied, under the trees, 



AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 159 

some of the chairs, to rent at one penny apiece. They soon 
had the pleasure of seeing many ladies and gentlemen go by 
on high-bred, spirited horses. 

Mr. Cartmell suggested that they walk out to this place 
next Sunday after church, and see what is called the '• Church 
Parade," where many persons take a promenade, and there is 
a great display of dress and fashion. 

" Why do we not see more carriages in the park ? " in- 
quired Florence. 

" Because," replied Mr. French, " the time for carriages 
here, as in Saratoga and Newport, is later in the afternoon." 

" Let us, then, go on, and return in season for the car- 
riages," suggested Mrs. Cartmell. 

They rode through the drive called " Ladies' Mile," on 




On the Serpentine, Hyde Park, London. 

the north of the lake. On the way they noticed first a very 
large monument in honor of the "Iron Duke," as Wellington 
is often called. In this part of the park were many flowers, 
shrubs, and fine trees. 

''Where do they have the great mass-meetings, papa?" 
asked George. 



160 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



'• At this corner we have the rich and contented. At the 
corner north of us, nearest the city, the poor and discontented 
people hold their big meetings, and express their ideas with 
great freedom." 




Albert Memorial, 

After crossing the " Serpentine," a lake in Hyde Park, the 
Cartmells came to the edge of Kensington Gardens. These 
gardens are a continuation of Hyde Park. In order to see 
them better, all left the carriage, and walked across the en- 
closure. 



AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 161 

" Oh, what lovely flowers ! " was the repeated exclamation 
of young and old. Mr. Cartmell said that he supposed Eng- 
lish landscape-gardening here reached its climax of beauty. 
Miss Gray asked if any nation excelled the English in this 
art. No one knew of such a people. The surface here is 
not so level as in the other parks, and hence presents more 
variety. All admired the very beautiful foliage on the trees. 
For much of the way the paths pass under leafy arches, be- 
side the shores of lovely lakes, or out into open spaces with 
rich velvet lawns. 

Mr. Cartmell and his friends soon came to the Kensington 
palace on the western side. 

''Eor what is that noted ? " asked Nellie. 

" It is the place where Queen Victoria was born," replied 
Mrs. Cartmell. 

" Yes," added Miss Gray, " here she lived in her child- 
hood and youth, and here she heard the news of the death of 
William IV. It is said that she received the messengers 
telling of her uncle's death just as she left her bedroom, 
in a loose nightgown and shawl, her hair flowing down her 
shoulders, her feet in slippers, and tears in her eyes. But 
she was perfectly dignified and collected as became a royal 
sovereign." 

The next place of interest was the Albert Memorial, a 
little Avay to the south of the palace and gardens. 

" I consider this," said Mr. Cartmell, " the finest monu- 
ment I have ever seen. Please examine it carefully." 

George thought it ought to be one of the best, for few mon- 
uments cost as much, — $600,000. He admired the spacious 
platform, and the reliefs in marble. Nellie and Ered liked 
best the wonderful groups at each corner, representing the 
great continents of the world. Florence noticed especially 
the profusion of bronzes, statues, colored stones, and mosaics. 
All liked the heroic bronze-gilt figure of Prince Albert, sitting 



162 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



under the beautiful Gothic canopy. Fred found out in some 
way that the cross over the canopy is 175 feet above the 
ground. 

"What large building is that?" George inquired. 

" That is another memorial to the Queen's husband, the 
late Prince Consort. It is a vast concert-hall like a great 




Albert Hall, as seen from Albert Memorial. 



amphitheatre, and will seat nearly 10,000 persons. It con- 
tains one of the largest organs in the world." 

The Cartmells then spent about two hours in the South 
Kensington Museum, which is not far away. After lunch in 
the refreshment-room, they divided up into groups, and each 
went directly to the part in which he was most interested. 
Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell spent much of their time in the Archi- 
tectural Court, and admired the many copies of monuments, 
parts of cathedrals, church doors, choir screens, pulpits, chim- 
neys, etc. 

Mr. French took Miss Gray to see the collection of foreign 
furniture, tapestries, and paintings. Many of the latter are 
portraits by celebrated artists. They spent some time in 
looking at the great Raphael cartoons, which Mr. French said 
were considered by many judges among the best of his works. 



AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 163 

George hurried the other children from one curiosity to 
another, till they were tired of looking at such a variety of 
beautiful things. 

At the end of the two hours in the museum all were ready 
to ride again, and the party proceeded northward to Regent's 
Park. In going, Mr. Cartmell directed the driver to pass 
along the northern side of Hyde Park, through a part of 
Edgware Road, which follows the old Roman Road. Just 
before turning from Hyde Park into this road, Mr. French 
pointed out where the famous " Tyburn Tree " once stood. 

" What does that mean ? " Fred asked. 

'"The Tyburn Tree,'" replied Mr. French, ''was some- 
times called the 'Three-Legged Mare,' beca,use it was a tri- 
angle on three legs. It was where the public executions took 
place before 1783. It was selected because it was so remote 
from London." 

" What does the name mean ? " 

" Tyburn means Tye Brook. The brook rose near here 
on a hill." 

"Dryden says," added Miss Gray, "in one of his pro- 
logues, — 

" ' Thief and parson in a Tyburn cart.' 

The condemned were brought here in a cart from the New- 
gate Prison, and each prisoner carried an immense nosegay. 
Many noted persons were executed here, among them Jack 
Sheppard." 

The driver, upon reaching the park, turned to the left, 
and entered the broad drive called the " Outer Circle." On 
the right the children saw a large lake with many boats upon 
it, and beyond various buildings, which they learned were 
those of the Royal Botanic Society. The ride was quite like 
one in the country, as the thorns, lilacs, and many other 
trees were frequently seen. In a short time they came to 



164 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



the noted Zoological Gardens, where they left the carriage, 
or drag. 

" These gardens, children," said Mr. Cartniell, " are among 
the oldest and largest in the world. They were founded in 
in 1826 by Sir Humphry Davy, a noted scientific man. We 
are fortunate in being here about the time the animals are 
fed, when they are most active. During the middle of the 




Regent Street, London. 



day most of them conceal themselves in holes and dens, 
under water, or among the shrubbery." 

The Cartmells here separated into three parties, in order 
that each might visit the animals in which he was most inter- 
ested. They all met later in the refreshment-rooms. AVliat an 
exchange of adventures and views took place around that table ! 

In returning to their hotel, the Cartmells passed by the 
large building jiist south of Regent's Park, containing Madame 
Tussaud's well-known waxwork exhibition. The children 
wished to stop and visit it at that time ; but Mr. Trench 



AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 1G5 

advised them to go in tlie evening, and see the exhibit under 
the glare of gas-lights. 

"What great building is that on the other side of the 
street ? " George asked. 

<'It is the Marylebone Workhouse, where so many of Lon- 
don's poor are cared for." 

They then drove through the rich West End of London, 
through Portman Square, containing the town residence of 
the Duke of Fife, through Berkeley Square, with its plane- 
trees, in which Lord Rosebery has his town home, and then 
into and through Grosvenor Square, which for a century 




l/iew from Richmond Hill, near London. 

and a half has maintained the position of being the most 
fashionable place of residence in London. 

The party again reached Hyde Park in season to see 
some of the fashionable driving. They were greatly inter- 
ested in the powdered lackeys, the sleek coachmen, the high- 
bred horses, and the elegant equipages, containing the most 



166 NORTHERN EUROPE 

handsomely dressed and most beautiful women and the most 
refined men to be seen perhaps in the world. They returned 
through Oxford and Regent Streets. AVlien they reached 
their hotel, even the children were well satisfied with that 
day's work, and tired enough to go to bed, after a light lunch. 

" We must have a ride down the Thames before Ave leave 
England," said Mr. French one day to Mr. Cartmell. 

^' It would be delightful. How can we best accomplish it ? " 

" Leave that to me, please." 

A few days after Mr. Prench invited them all to a river 
excursion. 

Fred thus describes it, in a letter to his cousin, — 

London, July 12, 1897. 
Dear Cousin Arthur, — 

Our friend Mr. French has given us to-day a most enjoyable river 
outing. We went by rail early in the morning to Reading, and tlien we 
boarded a fine steam-launch which carried us down to Henley in time 
to see the great Royal Regatta. Here we stayed a large part of the 
day, watching the races and the people. Picked crews from all the 
principal English clubs took part, and it was very exciting. The boats 
passed very near our launch, which Avas anchored near the bank. Late 
in the afternoon we dropped down to Great Marlow, a noted fishing- 
place, and tied up to the bank for the night, sleeping very comfortably 
on board. The next day we steamed slowly on past Maidenhead, 
where Ave saw many young peoi)le canoeing and picuiclcing. In this 
vicinity are many houseboats beside tlie banks, in Avhich the nicest 
families live for several weeks, to get away from the noise and dirt of 
the great city. 

Windsor Castle never looked more magnificent than Avlien seen from 
the river. Papa, mamma, and Miss Gray left the boat at Hampton 
Court to visit the old cardinal's palace; but Mr. French and the rest of 
us preferred to go farther down and see Richmond Hill, which we 
climbed, and from Avhich we had a -fine view of the river and country. 
We also spent a little time in the Avell-knqwn Kcav Gardens. It was a 
grand excursion, and I Avish you had been with us. 

Your travelling cousin, 

Fred. 



CHAPTER Xil 

TO THE TOWER AND TC^A^ER BRIDGE 

" Now, papa, can we ride to-day ? " inquired Nellie. 
<' Yes. And each one may select his kind of vehicle." 
The selections were written down upon pieces of paper, 
and Mr. Cartmell examined them. The result was, that Fred 
and George rode together in a hansom cab ; Miss Gray, 




Victoria or Thames Embankment 



Nellie, and Mr. French went in a landau ; and Florence, 
with her parents, saw the views from an open barouche. 
''Where shall we go to-day ? " asked Fred. 

167 



168 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



'' First over the Victoria Embankment, eastward." 

As they slowly passed through this magnificent boulevard, 
Mr. French began to talk to his carriage companions about 
this wonderful street. 

'' It is often called the Thames Embankment," he said. 

" When was it completed, Mr. French ? " Miss Gray 
asked. 

" In 1870." 

Then he told Miss Gray other interesting facts, — 

" This embankment consists of a solid granite wall, 8 
feet thick, 40 feet high, and 7,000 
feet long, extending from Black- , . . _ 

friars Bridge to Westminster 1 

Bridge. The roadway is 100 f, 

feet wide; the footways on 




Victoria Embanhment Gardens. 



each side are planted with trees. Much of the land included 
in this great improvement has been reclaimed from the river." 
The ride was very different from the previous one through 
the noisy and crowded streets of London. Here there seemed 
to be plenty of room to breathe and think. The trees gave 
considerable shade, especially upon the wide sidewalk next to 
the river. 



TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 169 

They saw many statues; and the boys stopped to study 
carefully the one erected in honor of Tyndale, the first trans- 
lator of the Bible into the English language. 

Passing Charing Cross Bridge, they saw a public garden 
with statvies of the two great Roberts, — Robert Raikes, the 
founder of Sunday-schools, and Robert Burns, the great 
Scotch poet. 

The occupants of all the three carriages stopped to ad- 
mire the Egyptian obelisk, often called ''Cleopatra's Needle." 

Florence thought it looked very small ; and her father told 
her that the reddish granite shaft was only about seventy feet 
high, and was dwarfed in appearance because many buildings 
within sight were much higher. 

The party soon came to a massive structure, Waterloo 
Bridge. Beneath this section, are several tunnels, used for 
the underground railroad, for water and gas pipes, and sewers. 
Through the iron ventilators come now and then puffs of 
steam and smoke, showing that life is going on below as well 
as above the surface. 

As they passed beyond this bridge, Mr. French and Miss 
Gray both remarked upon the beauty of the long terraces in 
front of Somerset House. They called ISTellie's attention to 
the Venetian style of this house, with its many rich columns, 
pediments, and corridors. 

" See those big lions ! " exclaimed Nellie. 

They were carved lions reclining on their pedestals to 
guard the place, and are considered very fine. 

The boys noticed the tasteful office of the London School 
Board, in front of which stands a statue of W. E. Eorster, 
who did so much for the cause of education in England. 

Mrs. Cartmell enjoyed the view of the Temple Gardens ; 
and back of them she saw the old Temple itself, in the Eng- 
lish Gothic style, which she greatly admires. 

Near the end of the embankment Mr. Cartmell pointed 



170 NORTHERN EUROPE 

out to Florence Hotel Royal, forming quite a sharp curve, 
and resembling, in its general appearance, a building in Paris. 

While riding through Upper Thames Street, which was 
very crowded, Mr. French stopped a few moments before 
Fishmongers' Hall, one of the richest and oldest guilds in 
London, having an income of $100,000 per annum. Inside 
is the dagger with which Wat Tyler was slain. 

Below London Bridge each carriage stopped in Billings- 
gate, the chief fish-market of London. The fish are brought 
here in boats, landed in baskets or boxes, and sold first to 
the wholesale and then to the retail dealers. 

"■ How do you buy the different kinds of fish ? " George 
asked a dealer. 

"We always buy oysters and shellfish by measure, salmon 
by weight, and the other kinds by number." 

The boys also learned that five o'clock in the morning is 
the market-hour. As the approaches to this market are not 
very commodious, blocks in the travel at this early hour are 
not uncommon. When they happen, dialogues between the 
drivers take place wliich are not fit for ears polite. Hence 
to talk "billingsgate" is to iise language which is not very 
flattering to the person addressed, or vulgar, abusive lan- 
guage. 

A short ride farther east, through Lower Thames Street, 
carried them all to the noted Tower. They entered these his- 
toric grounds at the corner near the river. Here a guide, a 
warden who is frequently called a " beefeater," escorted them 
through the buildings. These men are retired soldiers. 

He told them how old this great fortress and gloomy 
prison was. The buildings were surrounded by a moat and 
battlemented wall. The moat has been drained, but the wall 
remains. It has thirteen towers, each having a historical 
name. They passed through one of these towers which the 
guide said was called the " Bloody Tower," because the sons 



172 NORTHERN EUROPE 

of Edward IV., '' the two princes," were murdered here. The 
guide pointed out the old portcidUs by which the entrance 
was secured. 

" Please show us the ' Traitor's Gate,' Mr. Warden," 
George requested. 

So he led them below St. Thomas's Tower, and showed 
them the entrance from the river, which has always been 




Traitor's Gate, Tower. 

called the Traitor's Gate, because political prisoners were so 
often taken to the Tower in this way. 

"It has closed behind queens, noble ladies, peers of the 
realm, bishops, besides thousands of humble men and women," 
said Mr. Cartmell. 

The guide next took them into the principal building, or 
Jceej), usually called the " White Tower," and which is so 
plainly seen in all pictures of this place. 

" Here were imprisoned and afterwards executed," said 
the guide, " such noted persons as Sir Thomas More, W^illiam 
Tyndale, the Duke of Buckingham, Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane 
Grey, Thomas Cromwell, Catharine Howard, Sir John Eliot, 




Tower Bridge, London. 



174 NORTHERN EUROPE 

Stratford, Laud, and many others whose names are closely 
connected with English history." 

When he pointed out the little room in which the good 
Jane Grey was locked up, several Cartmells dropped a tear 
in memory of the loved character. Miss Gray and George 
were interested in the rooms occupied by Sir Walter Raleigh 
when he wrote his " History of the World." 

The Cartmell boys were pleased to see the many suits 
of armor, the various stacks of modern rifles, and other less 
death-dealing weapons. 

All were deeply interested in the regalia, or crown jewels, 
now kept in the Wakefield Tower. Saint Edward's cross, the 
guide said, was once stolen, but recovered. 

" In Queen Victoria's crown are nearly three thousand 
diamonds." 

" Is that the real Koh-i-noor ? " 

" No. It is only a model. The real ' Mountain of Light ' 
is kept at Windsor Castle." 

The crown of the Prince of Wales was of pure gold with- 
out any jewels. 

The guide finally led the Cartmells to the little church of 
" St. Peter-in-Chains," which stood in one corner of the inner 
ward. Here he told them are buried many noted persons, 
such as " the Earl of Essex, first the favorite, then the victim, 
of' Elizabeth ; the Duke of Norfolk, who in seeking the hand 
of Mary Queen of Scots found a scaffold and then a grave ; 
the Duke of Monmouth, ' the bad son of a bad father.' " 

Erom the Tower they drove across the Thames over Tower 
Bridge. 

'• This is a new kind of bridge," Mr. Erench explained. 
" It consists of three spans. The roadway in the central 
span presents, as you now see, a broad expanse of wooden 
blocks 200 feet long and 50 feet wide. Beneath this road- 
way is a span 30 feet high, sufficient for small river craft. 



TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 



175 



When a larger vessel conies along, vehicles must stop, and 
the road-bed will part in the middle, and each leaf, or half, 
rise to a vertical position, being counterpoised on its inner 
end. It takes only one minute to do this." 

" Do the foot-passengers have to wait ? " 

" No ; they can enter a ' lift ' in the Tower, and be carried 
up to the high-level footways 112 feet above us. All the 
machinery for operating the bridge is hydraulic. It took 




London Hospital, Whitechapel. 



eight years to build the bridge, and it cost six million dollars 
and seven lives." 

Recrossing the bridge again, Mr. Cartmell took his family 
to see the East Side of London, where the poorer people live, 
on Whitechapel Road and Mile End. They found some good 
buildings here, such as the London Hospital, Toynbee Hall, 
named after a young man who died while trying to help those 
poor people. 

They also visited the People's Palace, a large institution 



176 NORTHERN EUROPE 

for the recreation, amusement, and advancement of the vast 
population here. Florence said she read all about it in 
Walter Besant's "All Sorts and Conditions of Men." 

On the way home the leading characteristics of the Eng- 
lish formed a topic of lively discussion. Mr. Cartmell said 
that he had noticed that the men in England usually dress 
soberly and quietly. They are neat and tidy. An English- 
man rarely comes to breakfast in slippers and dressing-gown, 
but in a regular suit, coat buttoned up, and polished shoes. 

Mrs. Cartmell said that she could not say as much for the 
women, who seem oftentimes to lack good taste in dressing; 
in fact, to be almost color blind. For instance, colors are often 
worn when quite inappropriate. A good-looking dress is 
spoiled by putting on too much jewelry, or some other unne- 
cessary ornament. 

Miss Gray agreed with Mrs. Cartmell ; but she believed 
English women to be highly cultivated, and to show the effect 
of true education. They are very modest and womanly. If 
they are not as beautiful as American women, they are more 
lovely. 

Mr. French added his observations. " The English are 
sturdy, faithful, truthful, and honest. They are sincere ; their 
actions and words correspond. Tlie men and women look 
very much like men. and women in the same condition in the 
United States. The English face may have more color ; the 
average weights may be greater, than; that' of Americans. 
The real 'John Bull' of the pictures is just as scarce as 
our ' Jonathans.' " 

■ ''Are the English great eaters ?" George asked. 

" They do not eat as much meat in a day as the average 
Yankee, because they do not often , eat meat at breakfast. 
There is no such variety of food served in restaurants and 
hotels as in America. The Englishman likes a large joint, 
well cooked, and juicy. If he has meat in the morning he 



TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 177 

prefers the joint to beefsteak. In Loudou restaurants can 
often be seen about noon the notice, 'A hot joint at two 
o'clock.' English mutton is far superior to their beef. ' It 
is mutton which is mutton without being muttony.' 

" The English make the dinner very formal ; with the 
upper classes everybody must appear in full evening dress. 
You have all noticed this, even in the Hotel Metropole. Per- 
sons are sometimes invited to a dinner to talk on some favo- 
rite subject." 

Florence had noticed hov/" ooft and pleasant the voices of 
the women usually are. They speak with gentle modulation. 
When the mistress of the house speaks to her maid, both talk 
in sweet, clear, and low tones. It is rare to hear an English 
woman raise her voice. 



CHAPTER XIII 

THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 
BY CARRIAGE 

The Cartmells decided after several experiences to em- 
ploy the drag for their long trips, as it proved to be very- 
comfortable in the drives through the city. 

Bright and early Monday morning they started for Wind- 
sor Castle. 

They drove from Charing Cross over a part of the gj^me 




The Long Walk, Windsor. 

route taken in Lesson XI. Beyond Kensington they soon 
came to the small town of Hammersmith. A few miles be- 
yond this town they saw the Thames River; but this river 
was not seen again for a long distance, as it curves away to 

178 



180 Js^ORTHERN EUROPE 

the south. Just before reaching Windsor Park the Thames 
was crossed by a fine bridge. 

This park is fourteen miles in circumference, and contains 
two thousand acres, laid out with all the skill of English 
landscape gardeners, whose powers to beautify the earth are 
unequalled by any other nationality. The Cartmells were 
ready to concede this honor Avhen they reached Virginia 
Water, an artificial lake, faultless in its gentle beauty. About 
the lake they saw pheasants, Avhich are raised here for the 
royal table. Not far from the lake Miss Gray found a ruined 
temple, brought from the East. Its broken arch, stained pil- 
lar, and shattered column were covered with ivy and moss. 

At different points are secluded lodges half-hidden in fo- 
liage, where members of the royal race reside in summer. 
George III. occupied one of these in his last days of mental 
darkness. Not far away was found a fine equestrian statue 
of this same king, standing on its massive pedestal of natural 
rock. 

" This section of the park," Mr. Cartmell said, " is 
called Snow Hill. Erom this point, you notice, begins the 
Long Walk, a perfectly straight road to the castle." 

In the distance rose the castle in its strength and beauty. 
They drove through this highway, and found it for three miles 
embowered with double rows of splendid oaks and elms. At 
one point they saw the mausoleum in which lie the remains 
of the Prince Consort, the Queen's much-mourned husband. 

The magnificent castle now appeared before them in all 
its stately grandeur. Turning to the left, they passed round 
the castle and to their hotel. 

Mr. French suggested that a whole day be given to ex- 
amining the castle, lest they all become like Humboldt's 
friend, of whom he said, " He has gone farther and seen 
less than any one I know." 

As they all walked the next morning from their hotel up 



THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 



181 



towards the castle, Mr. Cartmell reminded the children that 
they were '' about to see," as some one says, " a very beau- 
ideal of a feudal stronghold, which was founded by William 
the Conqueror as a mere fortress or hunting-post. Since then 
his successors have added to it, till it has become one of 
the most important royal palaces in existence." 

They first climbed to the top of the round tower, which is 




Quadrangle, Eton College. 



the oldest part. They next noticed that the castle consisted 
of two quadrangles, which George said were called the loiver 
ward and the tipper ivarcl. Looking farther away they noticed 
the garden beneath beautifully arranged, and adorned with 
statues in marble and bronze. Beyond was the great park 
through which they rode the day before. Then, turning 
towards the east, they saw the Thames for many miles in its 
course. 

The antique towers of Eton, a celebrated preparatory 
school, rise just over the river, towards the north. 



182 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



''Remember," said Miss Gray, "that many of England's 
noted men liave begun their education under the roof of that 
school. This was told you by Mr. Forster." 

Nearly in the same direction, in the dim distance, can be 
seen the tower of the church of Stoke Pogis, to be visited and 
described farther on in this lesson. 

At eleven o'clock the Cartmells, with other visitors, were 
shown through the State Apartments. They first entered the 
Queen's Audience Chamber. The walls of this room they 
noticed were hung with French tapestry, representing the 
story of Esther and Mordecai. The ceiling was beautifully 
painted. In the next room they saw more tapestry continu- 




The Round Tower, Windsor. 



ing the same biblical story. In the Guard Chamber they 
found suits of old armor, a bust of ISTelson, and busts of other 
great English fighting heroes. The children were greatly 
pleased with the long and very wide dining-table in one of 
the rooms. More of this exquisite tapestry was seen in the 



THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 



183 



Grand Reception Room. In other rooms Miss Gray called 
the attention of the children to the noted pictures by Rubens, 
Van Dyck, and other celebrated masters. 

After making the circuit, led in a hurried manner by a 
disobliging official, they all visited St. George's Chapel, where 
so many English kings are buried, and then looked into Albert 




St. George's Chapel, Windsor. 



The Throne Room. 



Chapel, the royal memorial restored by the Queen in honor of 
Prince Albert. The latter was considered by the older 
members of the party to be the result of all that money and 
modern art could produce. 

''No wife," said Mrs. Cartmell, '' ever erected to the honor 
of her deceased husband a more magnificent memorial." 

Mr. French took the children off to see the Royal Mews, 
or stables, where they saw many very fine horses, kept in a 
stable which cost $350,000. 

Windsor Castle is about thirty miles directly west of 
London. Windsor means " winding shore," referring to the 
winding of the Thames. Upon leaving the place the next 
day, the Cartmells turned their faces towards the north, and 
rode for days in that direction through the centre cf England. 

They stopped for a few moments in the little town of 



181 NOKTHEKN EUROPE 

Slough. While resting, the landlady informed them that Sir 
William Herschel, the celebrated astronomer, built his great 
telescope in the garden of that house, in which he then lived. 
Of course they had to go out and examine the garden. 

From Slough to the next village was only two miles. At 
j&rst the road was quite tame, and only became at all interest- 
ing by the views behind them of the great castle. Afterwards 
they turned into a long avenue of beautiful fir-trees, whose 
low, wide-spreading branches swept the ground. This led 
them to a stone lodge buried in flowers. Near this lodge was 
a straight path, on each side of which grew rose-trees to the 
door of Stoke Pogis Church, with its "ivy-mantled tower." 

''In this little village," said Miss Gray to Kellie, "lived, 
years ago, a poet by the name of Thomas Gray, who wrote 
the 'Elegy in a Country Churchyard,' a part of which you 
have heard us repeat on several occasions. 

" 'The curfew tolls the knell of parting day, 

The lowing herd winds slowly o'er the lea, 
The ploughman homeward plods his weary way, 
And leaves the world to darkness and to me. 

" ' Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight, 
And all the air a solemn stillness holds, 
Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, 
And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds : 

" ' Save that, from yonder ivy-mantled tower, 

The moping owl does to the moon complain, 
Of such as wandering near her secret bower. 
Molest her ancient solitary reign.' " 

The children were pleased to hear Miss Gray repeat the 
first part of the poem after they entered tlie churchyard. 
All were impressed Avith the words, and with the beauty, still- 
ness, and peace of the scene. The churchyard seemed to be 
a fitting frame to the ideas of the words. 

Mr. French called their attention to the grave of Mrs. 



THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 185 

Gray, the poet's mother, on which grave the children found 
these words : — 

HERE SLEEP THE REMAINS OF 

DOROTHY GRAY, WIDOW, 

THE CAREFUL, TENDER MOTHER OF MANY CHILDREN, ONE OF 
WHOM ALONE HAD THE MISFORTUNE TO SURVIVE HER. 




Stoke Pogis. where Gray is buried. 



" Why is this place called by such a strange name, 
papa ? " Florence inquired. 



186 XORTHERJ^" KIJROPE 

" It gets its namo from two families wliich were united 
in marriage liere back in the tliirteenth century. The inte- 
resting story of tliis marriage is given in Gray's poem, ' The 
Long Story.' I may add that Queen Elizabetli was once 
grandly entertained here, and King Charles I. was impris- 
oned in this little village." 

'' I can relate something more interesting to the children 
than all that," said Miss Gray, as they walked into the little 
church. 

" The family of William Penn of Philadelphia renown 
was once the great folk of this place. Here in the nave you 
can find their armorial bearings. They did not enter the 
church by the common door, as we did just now, but by this 
private door directly to their pew, which you see is large 
enough for about twenty chairs."' 

George soon found on the walls of the church an inscrip- 
tion : — 

IN MEMORY OF 

A SON OF WILLIAM PENN, 

THE FOUNDER OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In a short time, as the journey was resumed, the party 
came to one of nature's beauty-spots, a bridge over the 
Thames. To the right were the wooded heights of Cliefden, 
a very slope of sunny greenery. Below the bridge the river 
seemed a shimmering mass of silver, and yet made up of 
varying tints. 

Passing on from the bridge over a long hill, Mr. French 
called their attention to the loveliness of English lanes, 
through one of Avhich they happened then to be riding. 

"jSTotice the beautiful turns and twists in them; the end- 
less varieties of plants, flowers, and trees which compose the 
hedges on both sides ; the birds which build and sing in their 
recesses. Here you can see the fragrant hawthorn all snow- 
Avhite in summer and red with berries in Avinter, the sweet- 



188 ?\^0"RTHER^ EUROPE 

scented honey suckle, the dog-rose, the sweet-brier, wild hops, 
ground iv}-, and countless other plants." 

By and by Great Marlow came in sight, the steeple of its 
church being seen at quite a distance. Here the Cartmells 
stopped for the noon-day lunch, which they had served to 
them in the garden, on a beautiful lawn shaded by trees. 

While eating they heard from the sky above them such a 
flood of heavenly music as to astonish them. All gazed up- 
ward in search of the musician, but the tiny songster was 
nowhere to be seen. The flood of song still poured forth, 
the mystery increased ; at last a small black speck came into 
sight, a skylark floated to earth. 

Nellie exclaimed, — 

*' How small to see ! How great to hear ! -' 

Miss Gray repeated Wordsworth's tribute, — 

" ' Type of the wise, who soar but never roam, 

True to the kindred points of Heaven and Home.' " 

In a little while after leaving Great Marlow, the valley 
of the Thames was reached ; and for hours the road traversed 
was near that lovely river. 

This part of England was so beautiful as to call forth 
from Mrs. Cartmell the exclamation, — 

" ' If there be a paradise upon eartli 
It is here, it is here! ' " 

As evening approached, the sun's last rays rested lovingly 
upon the wooded heights ahead. The tall elms near by were 
all resplendent with golden light, and the windows of house 
or cottage gave back the glow of the sky. The bellowing of 
distant cattle, the tinkling of far-off sheep-bells, the calling 
of the workmen returning from toil, gradually ceased as they 
approached Oxford. 



THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 189 

The world was almost still when out of the hawthorn 
hedges the nightingale poured forth his wonderful song. It 
was difficult for the children to decide which to admire the 
most, the noon-day songster, the skylark, or this new competi- 
tor for musical honors, with his piercnig, passionate strains, 
and long-drawn, dying cadences. 

Glimpses of the Thames were frequently seen as they 




Christ Church, Oxford, from the Meadows. 

hurried on and into Oxford, crossing in the town the Isis 
Elver, and stopping on High Street at the Clarendon. 

The next day the Cartmells spent a most delightful day 
in roaming about this picturesque old university town. They 
visited several of the old colleges, and admired the wealth of 
weather-stained stonework, the quaintly shaped gable roofs, 
and the mullioned windows of warm gray and often crum- 
bling stone. luside they saw the many treasures of carved 
oak and stained glass and pictures. 

" What makes all the college buildings look so old, 
papa?" Pred asked. 

" Because this stone is a fragile sandstone, and shows 



190 NORTHERN EUROPE 

quickly the effect of tlie weather. Some of the buildings 
are very old, having stood here for over 600 years." 

In the afternoon they first visited the tower of the Shel- 
donian Theatre, and looked down upon the city of colleges. 
All were ready to acknowledge that Oxford is one of the most 
beautiful cities m the world. Mr. French said that he con- 
sidered High Street, the pride of Oxford, one of the finest 
streets in the world. 

" Why ? " asked Florence. 

" Because of the great and rich variety of the buildings — • 
colleges and churches mingling with modern shops and old- 
fashioned dwellings ; also because of the different styles of 
architecture, and the pleasant curving of the street." 

Miss Gray quoted from one of the poets, — 

" ' The stream-like windings of that glorious street.' " 

"Walter Scott," said Mrs. Cartmell, "compares this street 
with his own High Street in Edinburgh." 

In the evening each one mentioned some point which in- 
terested him in the day's ramble. 

Nellie liked the lovely flower-beds and the matchless, 
smooth-shaven lawns seen in so many of the quadrangles, 
especially in Magdalen College. 

Fred was quite carried away with " Mighty Tom," the 
big bell hanging in the dome of Christ Church College. It 
is so large the clapper weighs nearly 350 pounds. 

"Every night," said Fred, "Tom tolls 101 times, that 
being the number of students this college had the first year. 
At the sound most of the gates are closed. I wonder what 
the students do when they are locked out ? " 

" You remember, Fred, how much you were interested 
to-day," said Mr. French, "in the great kitchen in this col- 
lege. It was built by Cardinal Wolsey about 1530 ; and you 



THROUGH THE HEAKT OF ENGLAND 191 



saw the great fireplaces and arrangements of those days for 
cooking, for no changes have ever been made. Some of you 
remember the dining-room called the ' Hall/ where the peor 
pie connected with the college dine. I once saw them in 
term-time. The magnates sat in state on the dais, the mas- 
ters and bachelors at the side tables, and the under-gradu- 
ates at the lower end. Nearly all wore their college robes. 
How much more democratic is the view of 1,000 students 



eating in Memorial Hall 
the tables are equal in 
order and decorum 
what interested you, 

" I was pleased to 
women attend all the 
on terms of equality 
for women have been 
and Cambridge; and 
grees, but they receive 
a degree. I liked the 
lege. I noticed the 
eral places. The view in 
the Mertonfield — the 
trees, and the stretch 
one of the loveliest I 

Mrs. Cartmell said 
so much as the 
morial, which 
where they 
but 7iear the 
people now be- 
exact spot is 




The Martyrs' Memorial, Oxford. 



at Harvard, where all 
rank. In both places 
reign supreme. But 
Florence ? " 

see and learn that 
courses of instruction 
with men. Colleges 
founded at both Oxford 
they can study for de- 
a certificate instead of 
looks of Merton Col- 
massive tower from sev- 
front of this college of 
Broad Walk of fine elm- 
of meadow beyond — is 
have seen in Oxford." 
nothing interested her 
Martyrs' Me- 
is situated, not 
were burned, 
spot. " Most 
lieve that the 
where we saw 



the cross in the street opposite Baliol College. Cranmer, I 
learned to-day, witnessed the death of his brother bishops, 
Ridley and Latimer, from the summit of a high tower. Lati- 



192 NORTHERN EUROPE 

mer is my hero ; for lie called out from the burning fagots 
to his colleague, ' Be of good comfort, Master E,idley, and 
play the man : we shall this day light such a caudle, by God's 
grace, in England, as I trust shall never be put out.' " 

'' AVell, George, what has interested you, my boy ? " 

'' I have been interested in many things, papa. I walked 
out to the Thames, about two miles, to see the boats, boat- 
houses, and some part of the course where the great university 
races take place. I found a good vicAV of Oxford near this 
point. I also went to the ' Union,' where some students spend 
most of their time. The luxurious rooms are well furnished 
with books, newspapers, periodicals, and lounges. The weekly 
debate here has a world-wide reputation. Oxford students 
not only take to boating, but to cricket, lawn-tennis, etc. 

'' I also learned that a young man after entering has to 
pass through two examinations, known as the ' little go ' and 
' great go,' before he can be admitted to the privilege of a 
degree. If he is successful he becomes B.A., and then pro- 
ceeds to A.M., and so on. Each degree has its distinctive 
dress. The M.A. wears a gown of ' prince's stuff,' with two 
long sleeves terminating in a semicircle ; the D.D., in full 
dress, a gown of crimson or scarlet, with black velvet sleeves. 
Undergraduates wear a black gown with square cap called a 
'mortar-board.' On Sundays and festivals the Cambridge 
students wear white surplices instead of the black gowns ; 
and Christ Church College here has the same custom. At 
Harvard the students put on the black gowns only when or 
just before they graduate." 

" Oxford and Cambridge," remarked Mr. Cartmell, " are 
both real universities, because they consist of a large num- 
ber of separate, independent colleges united under one head. 
Oxford has twenty-three and Cambridge nineteen colleges 
and halls. The principal executive officer, corresponding to 
an American president of a college, is here called the chan- 



THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND 193 

cellor, and is always a person of royal blood or a nobleman ; 
his office is for life, :but he always acts by his vice-chancellor, 
who is the real executive. In discipline he is assisted by 
'proctors.' The tutors and fellows are called <dons.' 

" In all these colleges at Oxford, there are only a few more 
students than at Harvard. Oxford has more students than 
Cambridge ; its expenses are greater. Oxford is more noted 
for boating, Cambridge for hard study. Oxford gives a grand 
education in ancient history and philosophy, Cambridge in 
mathematics. Some say Oxford educates, Cambridge in- 
structs. 

" In both colleges lectures are given by the professors, 
but much of the educational work is done by private tutors ; 
examinations are held at least every term. If a student fail 
eight times he cannot compete for honors again. The vaca- 
tions are so frequent and so long that reading parties, under 
a private tutor, or ' coach,' are common during the vacation, 
away from college." 

"Well, Miss Gray," asked Mr. Cartmell, ''you have long 
been silent. What have you to say ? " 

" Oxford to me is a most lovely town. The elm-shaded 
Cherwell and the clear, broad Isis flow through a fair and his- 
torical landscape. Never shall I forget the beauties of these 
grand public buildings, the stately libraries, the chapels like 
cathedrals, the armorial gateways, the time-worn towers, the 
embattled walls, the spacious gardens and walks, the smooth 
lawns, and the wilderness of spires and pinnacles. 

" The poet Wordsworth recognized here a ' presence ' 
which 'overpowered the soberness of reason.' I have been 
impressed with the antiquity of the edifices, and the youth of 
the students who in term-time must pass through these en- 
trancing quadrangles. The general course of English history 
is almost spelt out in these buildings ; sermons may, indeed, 
be read in the stones of these edifices. 



194 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" Oxford is connected with much that is great and noble 
in the world. King Alfred was its founder, Wolsey its early 
builder. Many kings and queens have honored it with their 
presence. Queen Elizabeth spent an entire week here. Many 
of England's greatest men have been educated in this uni- 
versity. Dr. Johnson for want of means had to leave his 
college without a degree. Both his wit and poverty were then 
well known. A friend put a pair of new boots at his door ; 
the great scholar was so proud, that when he found them, 
he threw them out of the window. Oxford has had in its col- 
leges such men as Wycliffe, first translator of the Bible into 
English ; Cardinal Wolsey ; Bodley, who founded the great 
library; Wren, the architect; Taylor and Wesley and White- 
field, the great preachers ; Sir Philip Sidney, the gentleman ; 
the Earl of Chatham, the friend of America; William Pitt, 
his son, orator and prime minister ; Sir Robert Peel, another 
noted prime minister ; Wilberforce, who banished slavery 
from English soil ; Blackstone, Southey, Addison, and a host 
of others hardly less noted." 



CHAPTER XIV 

CLASSIC GROUND 

Starting quite early in tlie morning, tlie Cartmells rode 
up the valley of the Cherwell. A pleasant drive of eight 
miles brought them to the once royal town of Woodstock. 
Alfred had his palace here ; but it is better known as the 
scene of one of Scott's novels, and the place of Fair Rosa- 
mond's bower. Mr. Cartmell directed the coachman to pro- 
ceed at once to Blenheim Park, on the edge of the town. 

"This magnificent estate," said Mr. Cartmell, "twelve 
miles in circumference, Avas given to the first Duke of Marl- 
borough in memory of the famous victory which he won over 
the French near the village of Blenheim, on the Danube, in 
the reign of Queen Anne. Parliament also gave him two 
million dollars with which to build a residence. We Ameri- 
cans are interested in the place because Miss Vanderbilt of 
New York has recently become the present Duchess of 
Marlborough." 

They found the park well stocked with deei-, and heavily 
wooded ; there were many lovely lakes, and it was all very 
attractive as a natural summer resort. The hunting here is 
said to be good enough for royalty to enjoy. The palace was 
seen among the trees. Florence called the four hundred feet 
facade "grand." G-eorge preferred "massive." Mrs. Cart- 
mell thought a better phrase would be " a pile of stone." 
For the architect some one proposed this epitaph : — 

" ' Lie heavy upon him, O Earth, for he 

Hath laid many a heavy weight on thee.' " 
195 



196 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Mr. Erench said, — 

'' In this building was once one of the largest private 
libraries in England, and a very large and valuable collec- 
tion of paintings, both of which have been sold to raise ready 
money ; but the interior is still adorned with fine tapestry 
and painted, ceilings, and many valuable pictures. There are 
several broad marble staircases, great halls, and a magnifi- 
cent organ, which in size would grace a cathedral." 

In the afternoon the riding-party made a steady drive 
northward, through a very quiet section of England, in some 

Stratford Church. 



^"-c^ 





Lhirileii, rear of Shakespeare's Home. Shakespeare's Home. 

Stratford-on-Auon. 



places densely wooded, and everywhere showing hedges in 
perfection. About four o'clock they passed through the quiet 
town of Deddington, where they noticed rolling hill and dale, 
and fine valleys with many trees. There were villages to the 
right and villages to the left, and mansions peeping from the 
woods wherever they turned the eye. 

In one place all were especially impressed with a broad, 
flat meadow, where cattle were wading more than ankle-deep 



CLASSIC GROUND 197 

in buttercups and grass. On the other side of the road tlie 
haymakers, including several women, were very busy getting 
in the hay. 

Soon after this, Mr. Cartmell began to repeat : — 

" ' Kide a cock-horse to Banbury Cross, 

To see a fine lady ride on a white horse ; 
With rings on her fingers, and bells on her toes, 
She shall have music wherever she goes.' " 

''What is the matter with papa?" asked Nellie. 

" I feel young again," said the traveller. 

"Why did you say that jingle here ? " inquired Fred. 

" Because in a few moments we reach Banbury, and shall 
see the Cross, and can have some cakes." 

At Banbury a stop was made for the night. They didn't 
see the old lady of the nursery rhyme, and the Cross was 
very new, and altogether too nice to suit Miss Gray's love 
for the antique ; but the cakes, made of rich paste with a fill- 
ing of Zante currants and other fruits, were pronounced " deli- 
cious " by old and young. 

The next day they proceeded to Stratford-on-Avon, passing 
through a very quiet, beautiful, open, well-cultivated country. 

Of course the Cartmells put up at the Red Horse, where 
Washington Irving stopped. Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell, in fact, 
occupied the room next to the one used by the famous author 
of the " Sketch-Book " in 1817. 

"This inn is a great favorite with Americans," said Mr. 
Cartmell ; " I learn this from the register." 

The following day was the Sabbath, and all was quiet and 
peaceful in Stratford. Everybody seemed to be going to 
church. The Cartmells went first to New Place, where 
Shakespeare lived, and walked from there through the same 
streets that he followed in going from his home to Holy 
Trinity Church. While passing along they heard the peal of 



198 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



the very bells which had said to him, "Come hither, come 
hither ! " 

This church which he attended, and where he was buried, 
stands on the banks of the Avon. The Cartmell party noticed 
the lime-trees on each side of the avenue of approach, and the 
beautiful central tower and slim spire. The interior is cathe- 
dral-like in shape and appearance. The Cartmell s were shown 
to good seats, and listened to the usual Episcopal service and 
a good sermon. 

After the sermon they waited, and with others looked 




The Church where Shakespeare is buried, Stratford-on-Auon. 



about. There were many monuments, especially in the north 
aisle ; but none were of interest except Shakespeare's. 

The children soon found it in the chancel. A simple slab 
placed horizontally, as a part of the floor. His wife and 
favorite daughter lie beside him. 

Mr. French secured the children's attention at once, when 
he said, — 



CLASSIC GROUND 



199 



'^Please notice the bust of Shakespeare just above his 
grave, and fastened to the walL It was made by his friend 
Mr. Johnson, a native stone-cutter. The window above it 
was given by Shakespeare's admirers in America. It repre- 
sents the poet's ' Seven Ages.' " 

Going home they passed by 
the fountain in Rother Square, 
presented by George W. Childs 
of Philadelphia. 

The next morning the party 
went out after breakfast to see 
this celebrated town. They soon 
found that High Street, running 
nearly north and south, was 
crossed by Bridge and Wood 
Streets, running nearly west and 
east, thus making a cross. This 
intersection is near the centre of 
the town. The market-house is 
near, and the old stone bridge, 
with its fourteen arches, over the Avon, not far away. 

A short Avalk westAvard brought them to Henly Street, 
where they soon found, from pictures, the house in which 
Shakespeare is said to have been born.^ 

The cottage stands near the street; and the Cartmells 
entered through a little porch, and came at once into a low- 
ceilinged, flag-stoned room, with its wide fireplace, so often 
seen in pictures. Florence soon discovered the seat within 
the fireplace. 

" I wonder if Shakespeare ever sat there on winter nights, 
and gazed into the fire and built air-castles ? " 

In the room above, the poet is said to have been born. 

"Why, see the names written everywhere!" exclaimed 
Nellie. } See p. 196: 




Memorial Window. 
Shaliespeare's Grave and Bust. 



200 IfORTHERN EUROPE 

Surely enough, every inch of the plaster bore marks of the 
pencil. Hundreds of names were written very close together 
on the chimney-piece, on the ceiling, on the great beams, and 
on the walls. The little panes of glass showed many names 
written with diamonds. Miss Gray soon found W. Scott 
among the number. George found Byron ; Fred, Dickens ; 
and Mrs. Cartmell discovered Thackeray. 

In the Shakespearian Museum on the ground floor, Mr. 
Cartmell called the attention of his children to the old school- 
desk from the ancient grammar school at which Shakespeare 
may have studied " small Latin and less Greek." He showed 
them a seal ring, on which, engraved, appear the letters W. S. 
It was found in a field near Stratford Church, and many per- 
sons think that it once belonged to Shakespeare. 

In the garden at the back of the house Mr. French and 
Mi-ss Gray found growing pansies, rosemary, fennel, colum- 
bine, rue, daisies, violets, and other flowers mentioned in 
Shakespeare's writings. 

"Where is New Place ?" Mrs. Cartmell inquired. 

Mr. Cartmell answered by directing the questioner and 
the others to the place. 

" Why are we going there, papa ? " Florence inquired. 

" Because it was the home of Shakespeare at the time of 
his mature manhood and when he died." 

" But where is the house ? " Nellie asked when New 
Place was reached. 

" The house was owned over one hundred years later by 
one Rev. Mr. Gastrell, who became so provoked at the many 
strangers who would come and sit in his garden under Shake- 
speare's old mulberry-tree, he cut this precious tree down. 
The villagers took their revenge by breaking his windows. 
He then pulled the house down, and moved away. Here you 
can see a few of the stones which were the foundations of the 
old house." 



202 NORTHERN EUROPE 

The garden to the house was not very large. The lawn 
was perfect ; mulberry and other trees grew there ; roses filfed 
the air with rich perfume. The square tower of the Chapel 
of the Holy Guild looked down upon the scene, as it did three 
hundred years before, in Shakespeare's life. 

'^ It is believed," said Miss Gray, "that 'The Tempest,' 
' The Winter's Tale,' and ' Henry the Eighth ' were written 
in this place." 

In the afternoon the Cartmells all walked over the foot- 
path through the fields to Shottery, about a mile distant. 
Here, beneath the elms, and surrounded by roses and vines, 
they saAV the cottage where young Shakespeare wooed and 
won his bride, Anne HathaAvay. This cottage is covered 
now, as then, with a thatch roof. 

Entering the parlor they saw a stone floor, a wide fire- 
place, and near it an old wooden settle. George and Elor- 
ence sat on the settle, and imagined themselves William 
Shakespeare and Anne Hathaway. 

Mr. Cartmell asked how many knew the ages of these 
noted lovers when married. 

Miss G ray said, — 

''I believe Anne was much older." 

" Yes ; she was twenty-six, and Will Shakespeare only 
eighteen, a boy lover." 

'^ To this room," said Mr. French, '' the poet may often 
have come home from his labors in London ; for here proba- 
bly his wife lived when Shakespeare was seeking his fortune 
as player and writer in the great city." 



CHAPTER XV 

IN THE CENTRAL. PART OF ENGLAND 

It Avas a delightful trip of about eight miles along the 
eastern bank of the Avon to Warwick. Mr. Cartmell drove 
very slowly in order that his family might enjoy the lovely 




Riuer Front and Ferry, Warwick Castle. 



scenes ever presenting themselves. Long before Warwick 
was reached, the tall spire of the principal church was seen 
high above the roofs of the houses. The best view of tho 

203 



204 NORTHERN EUROPE 

castle is from the bridge over the Avon, where it can be seen 
from turret to foundation-stone. 

Coming nearer to the ancient building, the Cartmells 
noticed that the huge pile had been erected at various dates. 
One side overhangs the Avon River, and the other opens upon 
a courtyard. This courtyard communicates with the town by 
an embattled gateway, with a well-preserved portcullis. 

All the party went into a good-sized room in the gateway, 
to see such relics as the sword carried by Guy of Warwick, 
his shield, breastplate, helmet, and walking-staff. 

" He must have been a big ^d strong man, judging from 
these articles," said Pred. ^ ^ ^ ^ 

" Yes," said his father ; " this breastplate alone must have 
weighed fifty pounds." 

" He and his friends were great drinkers," added the 
guide ; '•' for this punch-bowl of Guy's held one hundred 
gallons." 

The children at once rushed up a flight of stone steps 
leading to the top of Guy's tower. From this vantage ground 
they saw glimpses of the river, and beyond large stretches of 
greensward shaded by trees. In the courtyard grew Lebanon 
cedars and lime-trees. 

Mrs. Cartmell and the others cared more to see the inside 
of the different rooms. A mechanical-voiced ^ide rushed 
them through the cedar drawing-room, the red one, and finally 
the gilt room. All of these were very stately and uncomfort- 
able. In one was seen a handsome inlaid table, in others 
paintings, busts, and vases. The portrait of Charles I., by 
Van Dyck, is conspicuous, and was particularly noticed by 
Miss Gray and Florence. 

"These buildings," said Mrs. Cartmell, "seem to muse 
upon the centuries over which they have watched, and to 
be full of knowledge and thought." 

In the afternoon Mr. Cartmell ordered the carriage : and 



m THE CENTRAL Pv^RT OF EXGLAXD 



205 



he and his family drove on to Kenilworth, five miles distant. 
!Nearly all the way they rode over a perfect carriage-way, 
through a country of sweet solemnity and repose, past fertile 
fields full of wild-flowers and waving grain, by endless hedge- 
rows, and under handsome trees. It was a quiet English farm 




Keniluiortli Castte, 



country, dotted with cosey cottages covered with ivy, and 
under over-Jj.anging trees. 

" It strikes me," remarked Mr. Cartmell, " that these peo- 
ple are contented, and ready to stay here Avhile life lasts." 

On the way a stop was made at Guy's Cliff, named after 
Guy, Earl of Warwick, who killed the Dun Cow. The road 
passes over Blacklow Hill, and then descends into the strag- 
gling town of Kenilworth. 

A mile beyond, and they came to the ruins of the castle. 

Leaving the drag, the Cartmells entered by a small gate, 
and soon came in full view of the main part of the building. 

"That part on the right," said the guide, " is the Norman 
Keep ; it seems to have been three or four stories high. The 



206 NORTHERN EUROPE 

walls, you notice, are fifteen feet thick. Let us now cross 
this open place where the kitchen stood,- and look at the 
strong tower, which was built by John of Gaunt." 

'' Where, Mr. Guide, was Amy E/Obsart's chamber ? " 
Florence asked. 

" Scott places it in that small octangular chamber on the 
second floor. It overlooked this orchard and vegetable gar- 
den, which was then the ' pleasance.' " 

"What was this part?" Fred inquired, pointing to the 
next section. 

" That was the Banqueting Hall. Notice the tAvo fine 
oriels at its southern end." 

In this inner court were a number of other rooms partly 
preserved. Several remains of the outer line of defence may 
be traced. 

Mrs. Cartmell was charmed Avith the picturesqueness of 
the ruins, due to the ivy which covers them so beautifully, 
and to the general aspect of the crumbling arches. 

Miss Gray remarked, as they were about to leave, — 

" How can one look upon these old halls, these mullioned 
windows, these lofty towers around which rooks fly and 
ravens croak, and not feel his heart throb ? Here I seem to 
hear again the trumpets of brave Simon de Montfort, to clasp 
the gauntleted hand of old John of Gaunt, and to see Eliza- 
beth in all the pride of her imperious womanhood. Lieces- 
ter passes before me in his pride of place, Amy Eobsart weeps 
in yonder tower, as the moon falls on her white bosom and 
her great black eyes, while she waits for her lover. What a 
procession of historical persons do I see of those who lived, 
triumphed, suffered, sinned, and loved beneath the lofty 
battlements of Kenilworth ! Silence and ruin are here alike 
eloquent and awful." 

About four o'clock in the afternoon the carriage appeared, 
and Mr. Cartmell proposed a short ride to Coventry. It was a 



m THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND 207 

sweet, cool, and perfect afternoon. The sky was a pale blue, 
here and there dotted with soft white clouds; the grass on 
either side of the road was like emerald velvet, and starred 
with wild-flowers, such as forget-me-nots, buttercups, and scar- 
let poppies. The road, nearly straight, was bordered most 
of the way by two rows of stately sycamores. The hedge- 
rows, a tangle of bloom and verdure, called forth many ex- 
clamations of surprise and pleasure. Many low, brown, and 
moss-grown cottages were seen glistening in the descending 
sun. 

Mr. French soon called the attention of the children to 
the three tall spires before them in the distance. 

'^ Those are all in Coventry, and are fine specimens of the 
Perpendicular style." 

Pleasant accommodations for the night were found at the 
Queen's Hotel. In the evening Miss Gray told the children 
the well-known legend of Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom. 
But she added, — 

" This town is more noted for its connection with one of 
the greatest novelists of modern times." 

" Whom do you mean ? " 

" George Eliot was born, and lived much of her life, in 
and near this town. I will take you to-morrow to see the 
little schoolroom Avhere she learned her first lessons." 

After visiting the schoolroom, and being introduced to a 
person, who taught George Eliot, and who said that he knew 
" the strange little thing well," the Cartmells drove directly 
east to visit far-famed Rugby. 

At the head of High Street they found the famous school 
standing in its green close. 

" How much it looks like the descriptions in ' Tom 
Brown,' " remarked George, as he gazed upon the bright 
green turf, the oriel Avindows above, the drooping elms, the 
chapel, and the schoolhouse. 



208 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



A young man approached, and gave tliem permission to go 
over the place. They first went into tlie sclioolhouse hall, 
and saw there the great fireplaces and the two long tables 
running from end to end ; they also saw the boys' rooms, 
small in size, and filled with all kinds of boyish articles. 

" Where is the 
' Sixth Form ' 
room so often 
spoken of in 'Tom 
Brown ' ? " Flor- 
ence asked. 

T he young 
guide showed 
them, and the 
children saAV the 
benches and long 
desks where many 
noted British 
statesmen and 
writers had sat 
when they were 
young lads. 

The children 
asked to see the 
rooms occupied 
by ToTTi Brown, 
East, Arthur, and 
Old Brooke ; but 
this was too much for the guide, who could not recall these 
names in his day. 

"How funny," exclaimed George, "that he has never 
read Hughes's 'Tom Brown'!" 

They then all visited the chapel where Dr. Arnold, the 
great teacher and divine, preached so often to the young. 



^■v. 










*^. 








^^^* 


r ' tHIM 


H 








1 


^^ff 


1 j'JHk 


Rnipffif 


m. 




i1 ■ 


^^^ 


_. 



Dr. Arnold's Home, Rugby. 



m THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND 209 

eager souls that looked up to him as one inspired. He lies 
buried just in front of the chancel rails. 

" Dr. Arnold," remarked Mr. Cartmell, as they returned to 
their hotel by the house in which he once lived, " made this 
school famous all over England. He taught his boys that for 
the good name of Rugby they must do their best, both in 
lessons and in games. They must always set their faces 
against mean, underhanded ways. He had such a personal 
influence over the boys that they soon began to think that 
wrong-doing was a disgrace, and well-doing a credit. You 
remember Mr. Forster spoke of this same characteristic as 
true here to-day." 

After a day or two of rest the Cartmells began the third 
iveek of their northward trip. Early Monday morning they 
started for the lake regions in Westmoreland. 

" Is it true, that there are forty counties in England ? " 

" Yes, Nellie ; and each one more important in certain 
ways than forty States ; but in area each county is so small 
that Ave can easily drive through any one of them in a day." 

" In what county are we now ? " Fred inquired. 

" This is Warwickshire still, where we have been for sev- 
eral days. It is one of the most important inland counties." 

During the week they passed into or through Stafford- 
shir6, Derbyshire, and Lancashire. 

In the western part of Warwickshire they rode for some 
time in a coal region. They saw plenty of tall chimneys, 
engine-houses, and wheels over the pits. Around these wheels 
were roofs for drawing up the coal. White clouds of steam 
were seen everywhere. ]SI"ow and then they came to places 
where the pits and buildings had been deserted. In some 
sections the land had sunk in where it had been excavated, 
causing houses and even churches to tip partly over. 

" These buildings look as if they were drunk ! " said 
George. 



210 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



In the southern part of Staffordshire, north of Birming- 
ham, they journeyed through what is very appropriately 
called the "Black Country," because there is so much black 
smoke and dust from the extensive manufacture of iron. 
This metal is found here lying in seams among the coal 
needed to work it. Riding a short distance in the evening, 
they seemed to be passing near small volcanoes, from fifty to 
seventy feet high, with sheets of flame breaking out from the 
top of each. Black figures were seen flitting about in the 
dark caverns below, lighted by a lurid glare. The din of 




The Vale of Ciomford. 

clanging hammers showed the visitors that they were in the 
midst of extensive metal-works. 

One night was spent in the valley town of Lichfield. A 
visit to the cathedral in this place repaid each one by the 
sight of a wonderful monument by Chantry, of two girls lying 
asleep in such a soft and natural way that the gazer forgets 
he is looking upon cold marble, and is ready to kiss the 
sleepers. 



IN THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND 211 

In Derbyshire the Cartmells found a county more hilly 
than those passed through previously. On the uplands the 
air from the sea was very invigorating. 

''At certain seasons of the year," said Mr. French, ''this 
is a noted place for fox-hunting." 

Again they heard here the thrilling song of the lark in 
the deep blue above. George reported that he had noticed 
here also "blackbirds, thrushes, bultinches, rooks, and swal- 
lows." The river Dove, a branch of the Trent, they found to 
be very attractive. In some places the cliffs overhung the 
river, making dark, deep-looking pools ; in others the woods 
curved down to the water's brink, and the stream gurgled 
over the bowlders at the bottom. Sometimes the river was 
wide, then again very narrow. Near Matlock the party 
passed for several miles through a narrow valley called the 
vale of Cromf ord. Here they saw, on both sides, sloping hills, 
covered with various kinds of trees. In several instances the 
tops of the hills were bare rocks. Purple moorlands could be 
seen in the distance. Through this valley flows the Derwent, 
another branch of the Trent, and as lovely a river as artist 
or angler could desire. In one place there was not rOom for 
the river, the road, a sleepy canaf, and the railroad. As the 
railroad came along last, it had to bury itself iii. the sides of 
the cliff. 

" I miss the hedges," remarked Miss Gray. 

Then it occurred to all the others that they had seen 
nothing but stone walls in that part of England. In the 
western part of Yorkshire the road for a long distance became 
very wild, traversing as it did bleak, swampy moorlandSo 
The hills sometimes became mountains two thousand feet 
high. The land here was quite barren. There was hardly 
a sign of life; not a solitary sheep nor a wandering bird 
was seen for many a dreary mile, but the air was most 
bracinsr. 



212 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Now let us try," suggested Mr. French, '< to find as 
many signs of life on these moors as we can.'' 

Each one did so, and soon discovered heather and gorse 
in bloom, bright yellow mosses, and bilberry plants, with their 
delicate green leaves and purple, wine-stained fruit. 

" There is a grouse ! " cried Fred ; " I heard his whir-r-r-r ! " 




On the Moors. 

The houses on the moors are built of gray stone. They 
are square, plain structures, without even vines about them. 
The children ran about shabbily dressed, with tangled hair, 
but possessing healthy-looking and ruddy complexions. 

"How these children seem to enjoy life ! " exclaimed Mi'S. 
Cartmell. 

One night was spent at Sheffield, a place right in the 
midst of this moorland country. It was in a basin of delight 
and beauty. Noble slopes and valleys, watered by rivers and 
brooks, surrounded the city. 

As they drove through the streets of this place to their 
hotel, each one noticed and felt the contrast between the 



m THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND 213 

country and the city. The streets were narrow ; on every 
side they heard the hissing of steam, the din of hammers, the 
roar of blast furnaces, the thump of machinery, and tlie grat- 
ing sound of grinding wheels. 

Miss Gray was moved to quote a part of Charles Reade's 
description of the city : — 

'•'Though built on one of the loveliest sites in England, 
it is perhaps the most hideous town in creation.' " 

"AH true enough," said Mr. Cartmell; "but if you travel 
in India or Australia, you will probably move over Sheffield 
rails. Wherever you eat your dinner, Sheffield cutlery will 
be placed by your plate. If you watch the harvest in some 
foreign country, very likely the scythes employed were made 
near this hotel. When we go back to America across the 
Atlantic, the steamer will be encased in Sheffield plates. If 
you boys wish a good knife, or you girls a good pair of scis- 
sors, buy one made in Sheffield from Swedish steel." 

The Cartmells also rode through many cloth-making towns 
in the western part of Yorkshire. 

"I have no doubt," said Mr. French, "that the broadcloth 
in my coat came from some of these woollen mills." 

In Lancashire the moors, dreary and bleak, continued for 
many a mile. ISTow and then broad meadows and pasture- 
fields were noticed, with cattle and sheep in them. In the 
river valleys, such as the Ribble and Mersey, crops of wheat, 
oats, and potatoes were frequently seen. But the great dif- 
ference between this county and the previous one Avas that 
the mills here were making cotton goods for the most part 
instead of woollen. 

The end of the week found the party in Lancaster, on the 
northwestern side of England. Here they rested over Sun- 
day. The services in the church were very much enjoj'cd. 
In the afternoon a walk Avas taken around the noted castle. 

" The greater part of this castle," said Mr. Cartmell, " was 



214 NORTHERN EUROPE 

built by John of Gaunt. This magnificent gateway, flanked 
by these two high octagonal turrets, and surrounded by 
■watch-towers, is his work. Notice this full-length statue of 
John, in the costume of his day." 

'' For what do they use the castle now ?" George asked. 

" Sad to say, it is now used for a prison." 



CHAPTER XVI 

THE EISTGLISH LAKES 

The Cartmells entered upon the fourth week of their 
coaching-trip fresh, and full of pleasant anticipations. Good 
weather had blessed them. Only two days had been lost on 
account of storm. 

Crossing the Lune after leaving Lancaster, the first day's 
trip was around Morecambe Bay, or tlie great crooked baij, full 
of varied charms. 

" The tide," said Mr. Erench, " comes up this bay with a 
rush, and work or play upon the sands at low tide is usually 
very dangerous. People who get their living folloAving the 
sands rarely die in bed." 

"I have read frequently," said Mr. Cartmell, ''of the 
Over-Sands route from Lancaster." 

On the landward side every mile brought a new picture. 
The light-hued limestone rock was rich in exquisite beauty of 
form and color. The Avoods were peculiarly charming. The 
road was over hill and dale, across rivers, and by many a 
delightful tarn or pond. 

The first noon-day rest was spent at the charming little 
village of Grange, a cluster of gardens and limestone houses 
scattered about the lower slopes of a craggy wooded height, 
which fills the background. Strolling about this English 
summer resort after dinner, they concluded that it made no 
difference where you put your house in Grange, it was sure 
to have a pleasant outlook. 

Erom Grange to the foot of Windermere, the largest of 
the English Lakes, is only six miles ; but Miss Gray was very 

215 



216 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



anxious to visit Furness Abbey, and so the driver was directed 
to proceed from Cartmel, a very old town, to Ulverston for 
the night. In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell visited 
Swarthmoor Hall, the residence for many years of George 
Eox, the founder of the Quakers, or Society of Friends. They 
went into the place, and saw his study, and the window from 




Scene at Grange, near English Lakes. 

which he sometimes preached to his friends in the garden 
below. From here, they learned, he was carried to Lancaster 
Castle, and imprisoned for a long time on account of his re- 
ligion. 

Starting early the next morning, a short drive of six miles 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 



21T 



brought the Cartmells to the lovely glen in which stood the 
magnificent ruins of Furness Abbey. 

At the first view Miss Gray exclaimed, — 

" Oh, how lovely, how exquisite ! Not so large as Foun- 
tain's in Yorkshire, but more beautiful ! " 

All were delighted with the great beauty of the walls, the 




Furness Abbey, Nave looking East. 



nave, transepts, and chancel of the church ; also its pointed 
arches and clustered columns. Miss Gray was especially de- 
lighted with the east window of -the choir, nearly fifty feet in 
height. 

Mr. French and Mrs. Cartniell thought the chapter-house, 
with its arches and lancet windows, slender, clustered shafts 
and arcades, one of the best examples of Early English archi- 
tecture in the country. The roofs have, in all cases, fallen 
in. The ivy covers the walls with great beauty. 



218 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Papa, when were these buildings erected ? and by 
whom ? '• Florence inquired. 

" By monks who came from Normandy, France, about 
1150. It is said that many French words are now used by 
the common people about hme. This famous abbey was 
endowed with great wealth and power. Its prelates were 
princes, ruling over a district as large as the Isle of Man." 

After a hasty lunch at the Furness Hotel, the party 
mounted the drag, and proceeded northward towards Lake 




English Lake District. 



Windermere. They found the road full of interesting variety. 
A part of the way is near the river Leven, which brings down 
the waters of Windermere to the sea. Many hills were 
crossed, several picturesque villages passed. The last few 
miles were through a delightful woodland scene between the 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 219 

hills, with the river shining and singing all the way over its 
bed of mossy rocks. 

When they reached Newby Bridge, at the foot of the 
lake, Mr. Cartmell remarked, — 

*' We are now at the very doorstep of that beautiful region 
of England called the Lake Country." 

Miss Gray added, — ■ 

" 'All that creation's varying mass assmnes 
Of grand or lovely here aspires and blooms; 
Bold rise the mountains, rich the gardens glow, 
Bright lakes expand, and conquering rivers flow.' " 

" Which do you prefer, children," asked their father, " a 
ride on the drag around the lake, or a sail on the lake in this 
pretty steamer ? " 

In chorus they answered, ''The steamer." So the driver 
was directed to meet them the next day at the head of the 
lake with the drag, and all gladly followed the children on 
board the dainty boat. 

They saw that the lower part of the lake was well tim- 
bered, and fine residences appeared on both sides. 

" What mountains are those, Mr. French ? " 

" Those up the lake ? " 

''Yes." 

" They are the lofty peaks between these lakes and Der- 
wentwater. The highest is Helvellyn, a little over three 
thousand feet in height." The steamer passed about half-way 
up on its left a large island, and then stopped at Bowness, a 
charming little village in the heart of an enchanted land. 

As the party proceeded on their way from the above- 
mentioned village, after the sun had gone behind the hills. 
Miss Gray called the children around her in the bow of the 
steamer, and said to them, — 

" Notice the winding shores coming down wooded to the 



220 NORTHERN EUROPE 

very water's edge. Now we pass a trio of valleys, vying in 
beauty, but distinct in style; the lower hills, you see, are 
covered to their summits with copse-wood and bracken ; be- 
yond them see the mountains bathed in the bright sunshine, 
while we are in the deeper shade. What a combination of 
matchless beauty ! 

" ISTow we are in the widest part of the lake, about one 
mile. To our right is the landing-place for the village of 
Windermere. I see we shall not stop there. Near that 
village my friend Christopher North once lived in a quiet 
cottage." 

" Who was he ? " 

"His real name was Professor Wilson ; and he wrote books 
of poems, sketches, and many articles which came out in 
Blackwood'' s Magazine. For thirty years he was a professor 
in the University of Edinburgh. His writings have been 
widely read." 

"What mountains are those. Miss Gray? " 

"Directly in front of our course rise Wansfell, and back 
of that Red Screes ; while away across the lake to our left 
Langdale Pikes are very prominent, although not so high as 
peaks farther away." 

After passing Wray Castle on the left, a modern building 
with tower and battlement, the steamer stopped on the east- 
ern side of the lake. 

" What place is this, Miss Gray ? " 

" This is Low Wood Hotel, a favorite resort, I have heard, 
for newly married people, who come to this quiet place to 
spend their honeymoon. 

" See, children, that villa peering out of the wooded slope 
on the right. That was once the home of Mrs. Hemans, who 
wrote ' The Landing of the Pilgrims ' you have heard so often, 
and hundreds of other poems. The poem most appropriate 
to this place and time is one entitled — • 



222 NORTHERN EUROPE 

' THE HOMES OP ENGLAND.' " 

" Please repeat it, Miss Gray ? " Nellie asked. 
" The first stanza is, — 

" ' The stately homes of England, 

How beautiful they stand! 
Amidst their tall ancestral trees, 

O'er all the pleasant land; 
The deer across their greensward bound 

Through shade and sunny gleam, 
And the swan glides past them with the sound 

Of some rejoicing stream.' " 

The steamer soon reached its pier at the head of the lake ; 
and the Cartmells went at once to the Queen's Hotel in Am- 
bleside, about a mile distant. At this comfortable inn the 
driver of the drag found them the next morning all ready, 
after a good night's sleep and a good breakfast, to take an 
excursion aboiit the neighborhood. 

" Where do you wish to go, Mrs. Cartmell ? " asked Mr. 
Cartmell. 

'' To Grasmere, of course." 

" How shall we go ? " 

" By Eed Bank," replied Miss Gray. 

" And back by Eydal Water," added Mr. French. 

The road wound westward round the head of the lake, in 
and out among rustic cottages, then ascended a steep hill, 
past Loughrigg Tarn, shining far down in the heart of a 
green vale on the right. As they ascended, matchless views 
of Windermere were seen whenever they looked backward. 
About a mile beyond the tarn, or little pond, they came to the 
brow of a steep, tree-shaded place called '^ Eed Bank," from 
whence suddenly the whole vale of Grasmere, with its village 
and its lake, and the chain of guardian mountains that folded 
it from the noisy world, burst upon the view. 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 



99?. 



" How beautiful ! " exclaimed the children as they gazed 
vipon the mirror-like lake, every inch of whose shores could 
be plainly seen three hundred feet beloAv. 

The tranquillity of the scene caused Mrs. Cartmell to 
exclaim, - — • 

"'If there's i^eace to be found in this world, 

The heart that is liunible may liope for it liere.' " 



They rode rapidly down the steep hill, among gardens 
and orchards, around the 
west side of the lake to 
the parish church, upon 
the bank of the river 
Eothay. 

"Why do you get 
out here, papa ? " Fred 
asked. 

" To see something, 
my son." 

All followed Mr. 
Cartmell to a corner of 
the churchyard, where 
he showed them the 
grave of WordsAvorth, 
" the great high-priest worsdworWs Gmve. 

of nature, who lies at 
rest, lulled by the murmurs of the stream he loved and sang." 

The door of the little church was open, and they entered 
and looked around. 

Mr. French referred to Wordsworth's description, which 
says : — 

" Not raised in nice proportions was the pile, 
But large and massy, for duration built; 
With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld 




224 NORTHERN EUROPE 

By naked rafters intricately crossed, 

Like leafless nnderbouglis 'mid some tliick grove, 

All withered by the dej)tli of shade above." 

After dinner at the Prince of Wales Hotel, Mr. Cartmell 
and. Florence went a short distance to see the cottage called 
Allan Bank, in which Wordsworth took up his abode imme- 
diately after his marriage. They found it a substantial old- 
fashioned house in good condition, with clean windows and 
potted flowers. 

" Afterwards De Quincey lived here," said Mr. Cartmell. 

Mr. "French, Fred, and George took a boat-ride aroimd the 
Lake of Grasmere. The boatman was a very amusing fellow, 
who could sing a good song, or tell a good story. 

" What's the name of that island ? " George asked. 

^' It is called Emerald Island," he replied, " on account of 
its greenness. W^hen the Prince of Wales was about six- 
teen years old, he came to stop at this hotel with a friend. 
One day they got upon this island, and began in fun to chase 
the sheep. The sheep belonged to an old woman who lived 
in yonder white house. She came down to the water-side, 
and shouted for them to let the sheep alone, but they took 
no notice. She called them all kinds of names. Some one 
finally told her that it was the Prince of Wales and young 
Lord Cadogan. ' I care nowt whae they are ! ' said she ; 
' they're badly-brout-up bairns, an' they'd dew wel' brokkin- 
strop puttin' on a bit; an' if aa could leet o' their mudders, 
aa'd tell 'em sae.' " 

After dinner the Cartmells mounted the drag, and pro- 
ceeded slowly back to Ambleside, down the valley of the 
Rothay, a distance of about four miles. 

The first part of the drive was through a wooded gorge. 
In one place they caught a fine view of the lovely lake, 
Eydal Water, with its green islets and its picturesque shores, 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 



225 



sleeping calmly in its bosky nest at the foot of the wild 
mountains. Passing close to this body of water, Mr. Cart- 
mell pointed out, wlien half-way along, a neat little ivied 
cottage. 

" This is Nab Cottage, which was for several years the 
home of Coleridge, who wrote the ' Ancient Mariner.' He 
died here in 1849." 

The cottage stood in a garden, close to the road, with the 
lake in front. Not far beyond Mr. French pointed out an 
isolated rock, crested 
with trees, and having 
a seat on its summit. 

" That is known as 
Wordsworth's Seat, for 
he wrote much of his 
poetry there ; perhaps 
his ' Ode on Immortal- 
ity ' was composed while 
looking over this won- 
derful scene." 

At the end of the 
little lake a road turned off to the left ; and the carriage fol- 
lowing this shaded lane soon brought them to Rydal Mount, 
where all, out of respect, left the carriage. 

" In this lovely cottage," said Mr. French to the children, 
" hidden by these roses and ivy, William Wordsworth, the 
poet-laui-eate, lived tlie last thirty-seven years of his life, — 

" ' 'Twas here he lived ; and here at length he died, 
And, in his dying, left a lute unstrung. 
Say, who shall toxich the chords he laid aside. 

Or hope to give a voice to songs he left unsung ? ' " 

The house was occupied as a private residence, and they 
could not enter, 




Wordsworth's Seat at Rydal Water. 



226 



N^ORTHERN EUROPE 



Miss Gray quoted, as they came away, this poem about 
the cottage : — 

"'Low and white, yet scarcely seen 
Are its walls for mantling green; 
IS'ot a window lets in light 
But through flowers clustering bright ; 
Not a glance may wander there 
But it falls on something fair.' " 




Rydal Mount, Wordsworth's House. 



lu returning to Ambleside the Cartmells followed the 
Hotliay, and passed on the right, among the trees. Fox Gill, 
where Mr. Forster, the author of the Education Bill of 1870, 
formerly lived, and soon after Fox How, the former summer 
residence of Dr. Arnold, the master of Rugby. 

In the evening Mr. French and Miss Gray walked a short 
distance from the hotel to the Knoll, where Miss Martineau 
once lived. 

The next day Mr. Cartmell and his party started early for 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 227 

Keswick. From Ambleside they first drove back to Grasmere 
the way they journeyed from that place the day before, up 
the Kothay Valley ; then on northward by a constantly rising 
road, till the summit of Dunmail Kaise was reached. Looking 
backward, each one took a farewell view of Grasmere Lake. 
Soon after Thirlmere Lake appeared, embosomed between Hel- 
vellyn and the rocky crags on the west. Before reaching the 
lake a tiny church was passed, said to be the smallest church 
in England. Near it they saw several pedestrians begin their 
climb to the top of Helvellyn. 

''■ I am very sorry we have not time to go with them," said 
Mr. Cartmell, '' for the view to-day of this lake region from 
the summit must be magnificent." 

They rode quite a distance beside Thirlmere, and found 
the lake so narrow as to look like a river. Tlie opposite 
shores were fringed with wood, diversified with rocky knolls. 

Mr. "French called the attention of the others to the " rock 
of names " by the roadside, on which Wordsworth, Sauthey, 
and Coleridge carved their initials. Little of interest was 
noticed till they reached the ascent of Castlerigg, the ridge 
between Ambleside and Keswick, when there burst suddenly 
upon them a vision of so much loveliness, that every one 
involuntarily rose to his feet, with exclamations of delight. 

Low down in front, the Vale of Keswick, wide, flat, and 
fertile, filled up the space between the two lakes, Derwent- 
water and Bassenthwaite. These lakes are hemmed in by 
a series of fells, or mountain peaks, forming a magnificent 
panorama. Skiddaw, the highest peak, three thousand feet, 
is seen from head to foot. 

After dinner at the Keswick Hotel, the largest house in 
the lake region, Mr. French, George, and Miss Gray engaged 
ponies and climbed Skiddaw. It was a very easy climb to 
make. The best views were from the lower part of the 
mountain. At one place Derwentwater exhibited its full 



228 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



beauty in the foreground, and usually the surrounding fells 
made up a varied, and at the same time harmonious whole. 

Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell and the other children spent a 
happy afternoon on Derwentwater. Their boatman rowed 




Derwenttvater, English Lakes. 



them among the many islands, and told them many interest- 
ing incidents connected with each. 

"A thousand years ago," he said, "Lady Derwentwater 
hurried away from her home over there on Lord's Island, and 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 229 

rushed to London, bent on purchasing, with tears and family 
jewels, the life of her rebel lord and husband." 

The view of Skiddaw and Saddleback is excellent from 
any part of the lake. 

"Mr. Boatman, where are the Lodore Falls?" Mrs. Cart- 
mell asked. 

" They are not far from the southern end, madam." 

" I would like to see them." 

The boatman rowed directly to the landing, and after 
fastening his boat, led the way to the celebrated waterfall. 

Mrs. Cartmell quoted a part of Southey's poem as they 
walked througli the woods to the falls : — 

" ' From its sources which well 
In the tarn on tlie fell : 
From its fountains 
In the mountains, 
Its rills and its gills ; 
Through moss and through brake 
It runs and it creeps 
For a while, till it sleeps 
In its own little lake.' " 

" I thought, papa," said Nellie, " that it would be as told 
in the poem : — 

" ' Rising and leaping, 
Sinking and creeping, 
Swelling and sweeping, 
Showering and springing, 
Flying and flinging, 
Writhing and wringing, 
Eddying and whisking, 
Spouting and frisking, 
Turning and twisting, 
Around and around 
With endless rebound.' 

But it is very quiet, and there is very little water to see." 



230 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



''The trouble, Nellie, is, it has not rained much for sev- 
eral weeks, and the water is very low. If we could come here 
after a long rain, I believe the action of the water would 
justify the wonderful language of 'The Cataract of Lodore.' " 







Greta Hall, Keswich, English Lakes. 



In the evening Mr. Cartmell invited them all to a short 
walk about Keswick, a village of one wide street. He led 
them past one of the large pencil factories to a slight emi- 
nence, and pointed out Greta Hall. 

"Who lived here, papa ? " 

" This large house is as noted perhaps as Rydal Mount. 
The poet Coleridge once lived here ; and also, at the same 
time, Robert Southey, who wrote about the falls, and many 
other noted poems and books. For two years both families 
lived happily together, and the poets worked in literature. 
Then Coleridge went off, and left his family here for kind- 
hearted Southey to look after. Southey, who came here at 
first for a short time, remained forty years ; dying here in 
1843." 



TPIE ENGLISH LAKES 



231 



Keswick kept tlie Cartmells another day, when they all 
enjoyed a picnic excursion to Bassenthwaite Lake. Much of 
the way the route was through beautiful Avoods, full of pheas- 
ants and rabbits. Lunch was eaten at the upper end of the 
lake, from which a fine water and mountain view was ob- 
tained. 

" Now what shall we do, papa ? " 

''Well, we have one more lake, my impatient young 
traveller." 

" What one ? " 

" Ulls water." 

So Saturday morning they started early for this famous 
body of water. Through lovely valleys, over rushing streams, 
up steep hills, across elevated moors, down rapid descents, 
they rode, till the blue waters of this rival lake were seen. 




Ullswater, English Lakes. 



^' Which is the most beautiful of these English lakes ? " 
Mrs. Cartmell asked. 

" That is a hard question to answer. Each has a beauty 
of its own." 



232 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" I think," said Mr. French, " we had better drive along 
the shore of Ullswater, and ride up the lake from the lower 
end. We shall then see its three reaches in the right order." 

In doing as Mr. French advised, they found the first part 
tame, the second part quite picturesque, as the overlapping 




Upper End of Ullswater, English Lakes. 



ranges of fells assume a more imposing appearance, and the 
third part the shortest, but the grandest. 

" It seems to me," said Miss G-ray, " that this upper part, 
in its own peculiar style, both rich and severe, is the finest 
view we have yet seen in the whole lake district; and yet 
something is lacking." 

'' What is it. Miss Gray ? " 

" I have seen no Dove's Nest, no Eydal Mount, no Greta 
Hall." 

Sunday was spent in quiet rest in the little red sandstone 
town of Penrith. In the afternoon Mr. French, Miss Gray, 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 233 

and the children ascended the Beacon behind tlae town, and 
obtained tlieir last view of Ullswater. 

The Cartmells thus linished a month's coaching through 
the heart of England and the lake region. They fully agreed 
that it was an ideal way to travel when time was of little 
account; but they were obliged to go back to steam, because 
so much more could be accomplished in a given period. 



CHAPTER XVII 

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 

A FEW hours' ride from the lake country, and all that is 
quiet and delightful in nature, brought the Cai'tniell party 
to Preston, a typical English cotton manufacturing place, 
somewhat like Manchester, only much smaller. They left the 




liifirmarij, Manchester, 

train, and took lunch in the great hotel near the station, and 
then rode for two hours through the principal streets, and 
to Miller Park, a very beautiful recreation ground on the 
banks of the Ribble. Miss Gray and Florence greatly ad- 
mired the design of the Town Hall. The other children 

234 



236 NORTHERN EUROPE 

were much excited to see the many operatives come from 
the cotton-mills at noon, and hasten home for lunch. Some 
of them wore " sabots," or wooden shoes, which made much 
noise on the sidewalks. Mr. Cartmell remarked as they re- 
turned to the train, — 

" I never see the name of Preston without thinking of 
that great inventor of the spinning-jenny, Richard Arkwright, 
who was born here. His parents were too poor to educate 
him ; but he died a knight, and worth over $2,000,000. Here 
also began the great temperance movement in England called 
the 'Teetotal Movement.'" 

Thirty miles from Preston is the great city of Manchester, 
noted the world over for its cotton manufacturing. Starting 
out from the Queen's Hotel, near the centre of the town, the 
Cartmells drove through some of the most interesting streets, 
and by the most celebrated buildings. Their hotel stood on 
Piccadilly, one of the chief streets ; and near by they passed 
the Royal Infirmary, adorned as usual with statues of great 
men, James Watt, the inventor of the steam-engine, being one 
of them. 

They next saw the Exchange, a massive structure with a 
Corinthian portico. 

" What is this building for, papa ? " 

''On cotton-market days, from one to two o'clock, it is 
crowded with buyers and sellers from all parts of Lanca- 
shire. It then presents a scene of great bustle and apparent 
confusion." 

The streets in the older parts of the city, about the im- 
posing Town Hall, were quite narrow, and contained many 
ordinary blocks. But in the suburbs many fine residences 
were to be seen. 

Miss Gray thought that the finest building in the city was 
the Assize Courts, because it was so large, and built of differ- 
ent kinds of stone, exhibiting many harmonious colors. Mrs. 



INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 



237 



Cartmell greatly admired the slender, pointed tower, rising 
to a great height from the centre of the building. In riding 
about the city they frequently saw various canals, and the 
river Irwell, which is crossed by numerous bridges. Many 
huge and homely cotton-mills were seen, for this city is one 
of the largest cotton-making places in the world. 

" Did you know," asked Mr. Cartmell, " that Manchester 
is the home of free trade ? Bright and Cobden were great 




Ship Canal, Manchester. 



leaders in this movement. The former was twice elected to 
Parliament from Manchester." 

" Now, driver, take us to see the canal." 

" What do you know about this canal, papa ? " Fred 
asked. 

" I know, my son, that it is considered to be one of the 
biggest and most costly canal experiments ever made. It 
reaches 36 miles from this city to near Liverpool on the 
Mersey. It is 20 feet deep and 120 feet wide ; so that ships 



238 NORTHERN EUROPE 

from America with cotton on board can pass through the 
canal, and carry their loads almost to the very doors of these 
great mills. Chicago's great drainage canal is, however, a 
greater enterprise. In one sense we can now call Manchester 
a seaport." 

They saw the Manchester end of the great artificial river, 
and one of the five great locks needed in bringing ships 
up from Liverpool. These locks are huge stone structures. 
They saw a large cotton-laden vessel pass through the lock 
nearest Manchester. 

" Here we are, children," said Mr. Cartmell, " at Liver- 
pool." 

"Where do you intend to stop, papa?" Florence asked, 
as the porter opened the side doors for them to get out. 

" Up-stairs, my dear." 

'' Up-stairs ! and we are in a railroad station ! How ab- 
surd, papa ! " 

" This way. Let us take the lift." 

They all did so, and found themselves in the office of the 
Great Western Hotel, right over the station ; and soon after, 
in their elegant suite of rooms, they found themselves able to 
look out upon the great central square of the city. 

Mr. French, Miss Gray, and the children immediately went 
out to walk and to explore. The great building opposite their 
windows in the hotel they learned was St. George's Hall, 
looking like a Greek temple, with its massive colonnades of 
sixteen columns, and the many emblematic figures above. 
On the farther side of St. George's Square stood the im- 
posing buildings called Brown's Free Library and Museum. 
While the buildings facing this square are very large and 
fine, they found, not far away, several very inferior structures 
covered with advertisements in large letters. These incon- 
gruities are frequent in foreign cities. 

Mr. French next led them through a fine-looking and very 



240 NOKTHERN EUROPE 

busy street, called Lord Street, towards the river. Coming 
to a large building, he passed through into a quadrangle, and 
pointed out, on the opposite side, the Exchange Building, 
where the cotton brokers meet. 

*' The newsroom in this building," Mr. French said, "is 
large and very handsome." 

Noticing men standing about the quadrangle in groups, 
and very earnestly talking, George asked Mr. French what it 
meant. 

''They are probably cotton brokers buying and selling 
cotton and cotton ' margins ' in the street, on the '' flags,' 
rather than under cover." 

" We will go now to another busy place in this busy 
city." 

"Where is that?"' 

" At Pier Head, opposite the landing-stage." 

Reaching this centre by a short walk from the Exchange 
Building, Mr. French pointed out to the children some of the 
great enclosed docks, and this unusual arrangement of a land- 
ing-stage, both made necessary because the tide here rises 
and falls about fifteen feet. 

They Avere now standing near the floating bridge which 
leads to the landing-stage. On their right was Princes' Dock, 
on the left George's Dock, back of them a great broad thor- 
oughfare leading by most of the docks, and connecting with 
important streets." 

" This^ landing-stage," said Mr. French, " is built upon 
pontoons, like a floating bridge. Pontoons aud stage both 
rise and fall with the tide. It is used by the steam ferries, 
by the coastwise steamers, and from one end passengers em- 
bark on board the great ocean steamships." 

Walking up the broad street a little distance, they saw a 
crowd on the landing-stage,^ and the Lucania of the Cunard 

1 See p. 241, 



INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 



241 



line, with steara up, taking on some freight and many pas- 
sengers. 

Nellie almost wished that she were going home on that 
steamer, but the other children were not yet ready to return. 
Hailing a cab, Mr. French told Fred he could sit with the 
driver, and the others found room inside, and in time were 
driven back to the Great Western. 

Landing- Stage. 




Alexander Dock. 



Waterloo Dock and Grain Warehouses. 



Liuerpool. 



In the evening Mr. Cartmell asked the children what they 
had seen. 

" We saw St. George's Square." 

'^And the Town Hall." 

" And some of the docks." 

" I saw a Cnnarder starting for ISTew York." 

" George," said Miss Gray, " for what is Liverpool noted ? " 

"For its commerce." 

''Is there any city in the world whose commerce excels 
Liverpool's ? " 

''I think not." 



t" 




NORTHERN EUROPE 243 

"You are mistaken, my dear boy. There is another one 
very near here." 

"What, London?" 

" Yes ; London still leads as the greatest commercial city 
in the world. These two cities have two and two-thirds as 
much commerce as our great seaport, New York. Both Liv- 
erpool and Manchester have grown through the development 
of the cotton industry. Woollen manufacturing in England 
has also helped to build up this city. Liverpool imports a 
vast amount of raw material from the United States and from 
the English colonies. She sends out in return to these places 
manufactures of cotton, wool, and iron. 

'• If you children will look on a globe, or on a commercial 
map of the world, you will notice that Liverpool and England 
are very centrally situated iu reference to the great land 
masses of the world. This favorable situation, and the enter- 
prise and foresight of its noble men and merchants, have 
made Great Britain the greatest commercial and industrial 
nation on the face of the earth. It has been till lately the 
richest. It is now exceeded only by the United States." 

"London," added Mr. Erench, "keeps a little ahead of 
Liverpool in commerce, because she is herself so large, and 
needs so much to support her own population. She has 
greater commercial advantages also, beca.use the Thames can 
be ascended so far into the interior of the country by large 
ocean steamers, and because her position is nearer to the Con- 
tinent, and to trade through the Suez Canal, or round the Cape 
of Good Hope." 

" Great Britain with her colonies," continued Mr. Cartmell, 
"owns to-day half the merchant service of the world. There 
is hardly a nation that does not employ her ships for the 
transport of their goods. She has just twice as many sailing- 
vessels and steamships as the United States." 

The next day the Cartmells took a ride on the overhead 



244 NORTHERN EUROPE 

electric railway for a long distance beside the docks. On the 
left they passed these great water basins crowded with ves- 
sels flying every flag under the sun. The children learned 
that some docks were for vessels bringing " corn," i.e., all 
kinds of grain, as the word is used in England; another dock 
received vessels which carried lumber only ; another cotton, 
and many miscellaneous articles. 

" Papa, what are those brick buildings on the right ? " 

" Those are most of them bonded warehouses, in which 
are stored the goods brought here to be reshipped to another 
part of the world." 

It was a very lively scene upon which they gazed as they 
moved up and down this great thoroughfare. They saw mul- 
titudes of busy men constantly moving in and out of the 
sheds connected with each dock ; great vans and different 
kinds of wagons and drays went back and forth, carrying all 
kinds of produce^ cotton-bales, ores, piece goods, cases of every 
size and description, and the thousand and one articles of 
home, colonial, and foreign produce. They also saw trains 
of freight-cars being loaded and unloaded. 

'' George, can you tell us any facts about these docks ? " 
Miss Gray asked. 

'' Yes. The grain is carried from some of the docks to 
the huge elevators, or storehouses, one-fourth of a mile dis- 
tant, by means of endless revolving belts in subways. The 
names of the docks are interesting. The largest one, cover- 
ing forty-four acres, is called Alexandra. The lumber is re- 
ceived at the Canadian Dock. Grain is taken to Waterloo 
Basin. Albert Dock is used by vessels from India. Salis- 
bury Dock has an illuminated clock-tower. Other names 
are Wellington, Prince, George, Queen, King, Victoria, and 
Langton. 

"■ These docks extend along the Mersey for about seven 
miles. There are now more than fifty in number in Liver- 



INDUSTKIES AND COMMERCE 



245 



pool. Birkenhead, on tlie opposite side of tlie Mersey, has 
many more docks, and one called 'The Great Float,' which 
covers 120 acres. In both cities the docks cover about 550 
acres, and afford quay accommodations 35 miles long." 

Wednesday the Cartmells proceeded to Chester, almost 
directly south of Liverpool. They found the ancient city 
a pleasant one. 

The party" first walked^. through several of the principal 
streets. In doing this they found evidence that the city was 
really once a Roman camp, as the name indicates. 

" The four chief streets, you notice," said Mr. Cartmell 




Chester Cathedral. 



" run north, south, east, and west ; they all branch out from 
the same open space, and each street ends in an arched gate- 
way." 

But what interested them more than this great regularity 



246 NORTHERN EUROPE 

in the streets was the so-called " Eows." These are galleries 
wherein passers-by can walk safely in all weathers, and enjoy 
the shop windows without coming out into the streets. These 
roivs are made by cutting away the fronts of the first-floor 
rooms. The floors of these rooms become the sidewalks. 
Steps lead up to the rows from the streets. The Cartmells 
found that they could walk under shelter by many of the 
best shops of the city. 

''Is this small place a city, Mr. French ? " Fred asked. 

" Yes. In the English sense and use of the word, because 
a bishop lives here." 

The next place of interest was the ancient walls. Pass- 
ing up the steps at the east gate, our friends found them- 
selves on an elevated walk from four to six feet wide. From 
this Avalk they had a fine view of the cathedral, the bishop's 
palace, the old castle, and numerous busy streets. They 
learned that the walls form a rectangle, and are built of red 
sandstone on the lines made by the Romans when the place 
was a fortified camp. Towers or turrets are erected at the 
corners, and gates are opened in the centre of each side. 

"Now let us go and see the cathedral," said Mrs. Cart- 
mell. 

The others were quite willing, and soon they stood at the 
south doorway. Entering, they were pleased with the rich, 
warm color of the stone. They found out from the guide 
that the cathedral had been recently restored ; and they could, 
in many cases, see by the color the ancient and the modern 
part. 

"Now we will ride," said Mr. Cartmell on the following 
morning. 

"Where are you going, papa?" 

" We will first drive over to Eaton Hall." 

When they reached the place, about three miles south of 
Chester, they found that this great estate, belonging to the 



INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 247 

Duke of Westm luster, was fiuely situated on the river Dee. 
The mansion was a magnificent pile of buildings in the Gothic 

style. 

" Can we go inside the house, Mr. Guide ? " Miss Gray, 

asked. 

" Yes. The family are away for the summer."' 

They saw once more how the nobility of England live, 
surrounded by royal luxuries, in a home adorned with all the 
resources of modern art, and filled up with lavish expendi- 
ture. 

'•England," said Miss Gray, ''has probably more such 
grand homes than any other country in the world. Just 
compare these regal rooms with the bare walls and homely 
ceilings of the White House at Washington, considered good 
enough for our presidents." 

" Who would like to go to Wales ? " 

Everybody, of course, desired the pleasure. 

" AVell, driver, how far is it to Ha warden ? " 

" About four miles." 

" Can we get a lunch near there ? '*' 

" Yes. At the Glynne Arms.'' 

After lunch the Cartmells drove through the fine park 
owned by Mr. Gladstone, "the Grand Old Man" of Eng- 
land. 

A short ride brought them to the ruins of the old castle, 
which stood upon a lofty eminence, guarded on one side by a 
steep ravine. JSTear by is the modern residence, a large ^castle 
in the Norman style, surrounded by trees and flower-beds. 

"Notice how beautifully the ivy covers certain parts of 
the castle," said Miss Gray to the children, as they were 
about to drive on. 

" Do you know anything about the interior ? " Elorence 
inquired. 

"I have read that the library contains 20,000 books. 



248 NORTHERN EUROPE 

These are held in shelves which stand out into the room at 
right angles to the walls. There are three writing-tables in 
the study. At one Mr. Gladstone sits when busy in political 
work ; the second is used in his literary labors ; the third is 
Mrs. Gladstone's." 




Hawarden Castle, Gladstone's Home. 

The park was well supplied with noble trees, especially 
beeches, sycamores, oaks, and chestnuts. Rhododendrons 
seemed to be favorite shrubs. 

Late in the afternoon the Cartmells returned to Chester, 
and the next day proceeded to Birmingham. 

" For what is this place noted, papa ? " 

" It is, my daughter, the chief centre of the manufacture 
of anything and everything made of metal." 

" I remember," added Mr. French, " that Burke spoke of 
it as 'the toy-shop of Europe.'" 



INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 249 

" Birmingham lias also been noted as a centre of liberality 
and freedom of thought." 

'' Was it not here, Mr. Cartmell/' Miss Gray asked, " that 
the trades unions used all their influence to prevent the 
introduction of machinery ? " 

" Yes. And to-day the effect is still seen in the many 
kinds of business carried on which require a great amount 
of manual labor." 

Mr. Prench, Mrs. Cartmell, and Miss Gray drove about the 
city to find and see the best streets and the best buildings. 
Not far from the hotel they found the Town Hall, which 
reminded Mr. French in style of Girard College in Phila- 
delphia. In the large hall is a fine organ, and here are given 
concerts attended by musical people from various parts of 
England. 

Near by they found the Council House, recently erected in 
the Grecian style, and costing an immense amount of money. 
Colleges, free libraries, and museums are all located near the 
Town Hall. They drove through Calmore Kow to Snow Hill, 
past many fine buildings, banks, hotels, and churches. 

Mr. Cartmell and the children drove through quite differ- 
ent parts of the city to learn about the industries. First they 
went to the great establishment of Messrs. Gillott & Son, 
and "watched how the pens are made which they had so 
often used in the United States. Then they passed a num- 
ber of great button factories on their way to one of the gun 
manufactories. 

" Birmingham has been long noted for its excellent rifles," 
said Mr. Cartmell. " In the Civil War they sent to our coun- 
try nearly 800,000 rifles." 

In riding about among the tall chimneys, and talking Avith 
people, they learned furthermore that this city makes mil- 
lions and millions of screws and pins. All kinds of jeAvelry, 
from the cheapest to the best grades, are made here. Sewing- 



250 NORTHERN EUROPE 

machines, edge-tools, and bicycles are turned out by the thou- 
sands. Brass and copper and tin works were frequently seen. 
The last place visited was where stained glass for church 
windows is made. 

In the evening Mr. Cartmell read to the party Burritt's 
lively account of the i:)eople all over the world using things 
made in Birmingham. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

TO LAND'S END THROUGH THE SOUTH 
OF ENGLAND 

The Cartmells spent the winter partly in London and 
partly in the southern part of England. In the various trips 
back and forth they became very well acquainted with the 
counties, and many of the towns and places of interest. 
They rode in their carriage over much of the ground. In 
these trips Miss Gray often called the attention of the chil- 
dren to the wonderful variety of scenery to be found in dif- 
ferent parts of England. 

The mountainous parts are not so great as to become 
monotonous, the plains are not too extensive, the lakes do 
not remind the observer of seas, the moors are broken up by 
long valleys, and the downs do not tire the traveller. 

One of the first counties visited south of London was 
Surrey. Artists told Mr. Cartmell to notice here the blue 
tints of the hills and distances. The country was at first 
well wooded, and then beyond Kingston came green meadows 
and tilled fields and pleasant rural homes. 

At Dorking Miss Gray reminded the children of Mr. Sam 
Weller's giving Mr. Stiggins a wetting in the horses' trough 
where their own horses were drinking. Mr. Cartmell said he 
once read that there was at one time a real stage-coachman 
here by the name of Weller, who might have been the original 
of Dickens's character. In the western part of Surrey they 
noticed that the hop was largely cultivated. Everywhere in 
the season may be seen these plants twining round the poles, 
following the course of the sun from east to west. 

251 



252 NORTHERN EUROPE 

They also admired here the most lovely hedges, in which 
grew many kinds of plants. Mrs. Cartmell observed that 
England would not be England without its hedges. 

In Hampshire County they saw typical English scenery. 
The landscape was full of soft, restful greens, mingled with 
grays and russets, browns, oranges, reds, and blues, many 
changing tints blending with each other. Here they fre- 
quently saw the ground covered with gorse. All admired the 
effect; and Miss Gray told the story that when the great 
botanist, Linnaeus, came unexpectedly upon a field covered 
with gorse, and observed its golden sea of bloom, he fell on 
his knees in an ecstasy of delight, exclaiming that in all 
the world he had never beheld a sight so splendid. 

One day was spent in Winchester, a very old town in this 
county. This city, they learned, is sometimes called ^' the 
white city" or ''the city of chalk." 

It has a curious winding river encircling the suburbs. 
They found in the city many queer nooks and odd corners, 
all more or less romantic in appearance. 

The Cartmells spent a large part of their time in the 
cathedral, which can be seen from a distance of several miles, . 
standing in the midst of the city. 

Before entering. Miss Gray quoted the lines : — 

" ' Nations and thrones and reverend laws have melted like a dream, 
Yet Wykehani's works are green and fresh beside the crystal 
stream.' " 

"Bishop Wykeham," remarked Mr. French, "is said to 
have invented the Perpendicular style. This cathedral is 
the largest in size in England. The three points of interest 
to notice are the nave, transepts, and presbytery." 

Entering the church through the front portico, they were 
amazed at the grandeur of the nave. The great pier arches 
were beautiful, and there seemed to be less barrenness and 




.:\\ *■ 



'"^^^ 



f 




254 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



coldness, owing to the harmonious proportions, than is fre- 
quently seen in such large interiors. The transepts were 
enormous in size ; and the choir was placed in the centre of 
this space, behind which was the presbytery, in Early Eng- 
lish style. 

Mr. Cartmell called the attention- of the children to the 
many tombs, statues, and banners in this cathedral. One of 




Portsmouth Harbor- 



the finest is that of the good bishop, the builder, who was a 
great architect, and statesman besides. The children found 
buried here Alfred the Great, Queen Boadicea, Egbert, Canute, 
Rufus, and many nobles. 

" Papa, how did it happen that so many kings were buried 
here ? " 

" Beca.use Winchester was once the capital." 
Fred was delighted to find the tomb of Isaak Walton, the 
dear old writer and fisherman ; and Florence was equally 
happy to see Jane Austen's last resting-place. She had read 
a number of her novels. 



THUOUGH THE SOUTH OF EXGLANB 



255 



" What important places are south of us, George ? " Mr. 
Cartmell inquired, as they sat on the porch in the gloaming. 

'•' Southampton and Portsmouth." 

" The former is a growing seaport. It has a well-sheltered 
harbor. You know the American line of steamers from New 
York sail to this place, and thus land their passengers so 
much nearer London, 

'' Neither Southampton nor Portsmouth is a pretty town, 
but they are places of business. Portsmouth is a strongly for- 
tified seaport, and the chief naval station of England. When 
we go there we shall see many of England's modern warships. 
The steel-armored battleship Trafalgar and the Royal Sov- 
ereign were built at the Portsmouth dockyard. Perhaps we 




Bournemouth, from the Pier. 



shall see the Daring, a torpedo-boat destroyer, which can go 
through the water like a railroad train. Portsmouth is also 
an important garrison town, and the streets will be full of 
soldiers." 



256 I^^ORTHERN EUROPE 

'' Isn't Portsmouth mentioned by Dickens ? " 

" Yes, in ' Nicholas Nickleby,' " replied Miss Gray. 

George wanted to know some more about the English 
navy ; and so his father told him the following facts : ■ — 

" Great Britain has the largest and strongest navy in the 
world. She has over one hundred armored ships, several of 
which are of 14,000 tons displacement, each nearly 400 feet 
long, and armed with four sixty-seven ton breech-loading 
rifle-guns, and twenty -eight quick-firing guns. 

" She has also a larger number of unarmored cruisers. 
Some of these, like the Blake and Blenheim, are very strong 
and powerful. She needs twice as many warships as any 
other nation, because her possessions and merchant marine 
are found in all parts of the world."' 

Salisbury and its wonderful cathedral, with its graceful 
central spire, was visited at another time, after which the 
party rode to Stonehenge, nine miles to the north, across 



Stonehenge. 

Salisbury Plain. They found that about twenty of these old 
Druidical stones still stand. Six of the capstones were in 
place; others had fallen to the ground. The stone standing 
by itself at the left was called the " Friar's Heel." 

" What were the stones for, papa ? " 

" It is not certainly known. Some believe the Druids 



258 NORTHERN EUROPE 

■worshipped here ; some think there was once in this spot a 
temple to tlie sun ; and otlaers are sure that soldiers were 
buried here. A few believe that these stones represented a 
calendar for the measurement of time. Nobody knows." 

The Cartmells spent several weeks during the winter 
months at the Koyal Bath Hotel in Bournemouth, a little 
watering-place on the southern shores of England. Here the 
children read English history with Miss Gray ; and their 
father took them every week on some excursion, or up to 
London to attend the many good entertainments always found 
in the great city. The distance was only two and one half 
hours in an express- train. Their hotel Avas situated on a high 
cliff overlooking the bay. The climate, even in winter, was 
soft and balmy. The walks about this summer resort were 
many, and some of them more beautiful than words could 
express. 

In the spring the Cartmells rode through Devonshire and 
Cornwall. They found the air of the former pure and soft, 
it not being mixed with smoke, as it is in London. The 
clear streams abound in trout. The cottages, surrounded by 
flowers, and roses climbing the walls, were low-roofed and 
thatched. 

Exeter, the principal town, was found to be celebrated 
largely for its square-tower cathedral. Going beyond this 
place, they passed through long stretches of woods, by many 
small villages, and in sight of meadows and streams bathed 
in the noonday sun. The soil was red, and both orange- and 
apple-trees flourished. 

Coming to Teignmouth, a small watering-place, they learned 
it was the abode of many retired navy and army officers and 
their families. 

Torquay, a little farther south, was so charming that Mrs. 
Cartmell insisted on staying there a week. The air was so 
warm as to be almost languorous, even in spring. The coast 



THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND 



259 



curved about, and presented many fairylike appearances. At 
night the views always reminded the children of scenes so 
often painted on drop-curtains in theatres. The very red soil 
is the foundation of the terra-cotta pottery industry. 

While in the three last-mentioned places, Mr. Cartmell 
often took excursions from the coast back into the interior. 
This led him into that part of Devonshire known as Dartmoor, 
which is a kind of table-land, — a rough, rugged, rolling, f ar- 




Teignmouth, Southern Coast. 



extending granite upland. Wild, coarse grass grew on the 
thin soil. Winds came from different directions, cold and 
rain-charged. 

Miss Gray soon discovered the great beauty of the moors 
to be found in the many streams fighting their various ways 
among great bowlders, white and foaming with rage, making 
headlong plunges down steep slopes towards the sea. The 
waters were very clear, and often showed the trout darting in 
and out of their rocky hiding-places. At one time the party 



260 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



was caught in a terrible rainstorm, and was thoroughly 
soaked before shelter could be found. This caused Miss 
Gray to tell the children about the old legends of many weird 
inhabitants, such as '' spectral dwarfs " and '' mischievous 
pixies," the latter supposed to be children who die imchris- 
tened, and are said to haunt the forests everywhere. The old 




Tavistock, near Dartmoor Forest, South-west part of England. 



lady at whose house they obtained shelter told them story 
after story of travellers lost or starved to death on this moor. 
One day they dined at Tavistock, on the western side of Dart- 
moor, and found it to be a charming place, although in the 
centre of mining interests, and not far from Cornwall. 

Only a short sojourn was spent in Plymouth, even by 
these Plymouth admirers, because there was little to see be- 
yond arsenals ; clanging dockyards ; big, floating strongholds 
or modern warships ; and the great encircling chain of forts. 
The children enjoyed the regular redcoats and rifle regiments. 



THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND 261 

marcliiiig about to the sound of the bugle. In the river 
were seen torpedo-boats, torpedo-destroyers, and several 
battleships of the latest type. 

Mr. Cartmell told several facts about the British army, 
which now numbers about 700,000 men, including volunteers, 
or one soldier to every 183 inhabitants. 

''The English army has a grand record for courage and 
military success. Absurd as the tightly fitting coats and 
trousers are, and the little cap stuck on the side of the head, 
the men like to swagger round in them. The officers come 
from the higher classes, and are educated gentlemen always. 
They are great lovers of sport and adventure. Many of the 
best books of travel are written by them." 

The Cartmells in all their excursions through Cornwall 
found this western end of England somewhat bleak and bare, 
but not monotonous. It was a hilly country. The roads 
climbed up and down, and Avere ever winding about. There 
were in some places charming wooded glens and cultivated 
valleys. 

In going from Plymouth to Penryn they saw many dismal, 
dreary wastes, silent and solitary. Limitless space and bound- 
less air were everywhere. Suddenly they would come upon 
some queer little village. They passed over several moors 
bestrewn with bleached bowlders, and b}'- a few sheltered 
spots where the vegetation was quite dense, and flowers abun- 
dant. 

A few hours were spent by the travellers in Truro, Avhich 
they learned was in the centre of the great mining industry of 
Cornwall. 

"Eemember, children," said Mr. Cartmell, as they drove 
about the place, " that if the moors look very barren and poor, 
there is great wealth beneath the surface in many places. 
The tin for which this part of the Avorld has been celebrated 
for two thousand years is held in its granite crust. Tin is 



262 NORTHERN EUROPE 

found all the way from Dartmoor Forest to Land's End. It 
is found in the soil in the valleys, and in the shape of ore in 
veins, or lodes, in other places. These veins vary in width 
from one inch to several yards, and usually run from east to 
west. Wherever they find a good-paying lode, the miners 
sink a shaft, and open a mine." 

" Where are some of the best mines ? " 

''Near the south side of Cornwall. One of these mines 
is open to the daylight, and you can see crowds of men and 




Old Lizard Head, South-west of England. 

horses moving about in the work. This pit looks like an 
opening into a mountain of silver." 

In going on south of Penryn, nearer to the coast, the 
country became more rough and wild. They had come into 
the copper-mining district. 

"Isn't there a mine here, Mr. Cartmell," inquired Miss 
Gray, " which runs under the sea ? " 

" Yes ; it is about seven miles from Land's End. It is the 
Battallock Mine, a copper-mine ; and it extends under the sea 



THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND 



263 



four hundred feet. The 
sound of the waves is 
heard by the miners above 
their heads as they work." 

Fred asked why they 
saw so many buildings in 
ruins. 

" It means, Fred," re- 
plied his father, '' that 
this was once a great 
mining country. Now the 
mines are closed because 
unprofitable, and these 
engine-houses and tall 
chimneys are falling to 
pieces. The competition 
in the United States from 
the Michigan copper- 
mines has closed them for 
the present." 

Nearly one day was 
given to a large, high, 
jutting promontory, or 
point, near Land's End, 
called "Lizard Head." 

"This is," said Mr. 
Cartmell, "the southern- 
most point of Great Brit- 
ain. It once was a great 
resort for smugglers, as 
there are many caverns in 
the cliffs." 

When they reached 
the place the children 




264 NORTHERN EUROPE 

were delighted with, the sea views, but surprised to notice 
how small the ships appeared. Their father exj^lained that 
this was owing to their own great height above the water. 
The wind blew so strongly over the cliff that Mrs. Cartmell 
and Miss Gray Avere glad to find a temporary shelter. Trees 
were not seen at all, and very little grass except in sheltered 
spots. George discovered a new kind of fence. It was made 
of earth-banks, and the people walked on its top from one 
place to another. Florence learned that the people, on ac- 
count of the good air, lived to be very old, sometimes to 
one hundred and twenty years. 

" I have been told," said Mrs. Cartmell, " that although 
the people here seem very rough and uncultivated, they are 
very Avarm-hearted and brave. Many a man has been saved 
from a watery grave by their actions. They do not consider 
it anything to risk their lives to save others in peril. A 
sailor was once asked in a trial, ' How did you know that 
it was on the English coast your vessel struck ? ' — ' Because 
at once a boat put out to us,' he replied. 

" These men may be poor and ignorant, but they possess a 
nobility of nature which reminds me of Kingsley's lines : — 

" ' Be good, sweet maid, and let who will be clever. 
Do noble deeds, not dream them all day long; 
And thus make life, death, and that vast forever 
One grand sweet song.' " 

On their way to Penzance they passed by several serpen- 
tine cliffs. Some were red and some green. When washed 
by the sea they were " exceedingly lovely ! " as Florence so 
often exclaimed. They learned that this serpentine rock is 
often made into ringstands, paper-weights, etc. At the foot 
of these cliffs the water is usually very blue. 

Just before reaching Penzance the Cartmells stopped sev- 



THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND 



265 



eral hours at St. Michael's Mount and Bay. They had seen it 
long before reaching the place, — a curious rocky islet rising 
to the height of 250 feet above the sea. They went to it by 
a natural causeway, which is uncovered only three hours at 
low tide. They found on top a very ancient castle containing 
an interesting hall. The guide related to the children the 
story of the giant Cormoran, who was killed by Jack the 
Giant-killer. Mr. Cartmell said hermits were believed to 
have lived there early in the Christian era, and to them 
St. Michael appeared, hence the name. 




Penzance Parade, Land's End. 



Reaching Penzance, the last town in England, Mr. Cart- 
mell drove to the largest hotel, the Queen's, on the esplanade. 
The ladies and the girls enjoyed here a few days of rest, 
walking, when the wind was not too strong, on the parade, or 
along the irregular seacoast. Mr. Cartmell and the boys ex- 
plored, the next day, a copper-mine not far away. The second 
day they walked along the beach to Logan Rock and back. 
The path in many cases was high up, affording grand views 
of the sea below and the great granite cliffs above. They 



266 



KORTHERX EUROPE 



found that this Logan Rock, though so large that it weighs 
seventy tons, can be rocked, or "logged.^' 

On another day they rode to Land's End. The morning 
was very fine. After reacliiug Logan Rock Mr. Cartmell and 
the boys preferred to walk the six. miles along the shore, 
and sent the carriage on by the road, which is inland. They 
saw in this walk many grand scenes. In some places they 
stood on the topmost crags, looking down upon vast sea 




Land's End. 



stretches, ship-dotted, with circling gulls whirling restlessly 
about. At other parts of the walk they saw, at the foot 
of lofty cliffs, soft sand stretches, or lonely land-locked 
nooks. 

Standing at last upon that part of the coast which was 
farthest west, they gazed with emotion towards their far- 
away home across the turbulent Atlantic, and listened to the 
white-crested waves breaking in solemn grandeur against the 



THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENGLAND 267 

steadfast cliffs. Each shock was accompanied by a sullen 
boom and a far-resounding roar. Then, as the waters rushed 
back, there was a long-drawn hiss, " The cry," said Mr. Cart- 
mell, '^ of impotent rage." 

While standing on the cliff, George espied a little ship far 
out from land, tossing madly about, its hidl now buried in the 
foaming waters, its white sails gleaming in the burning light 
of the setting sun. 

The horizon had hardly risen to give its parting kiss to 
the sinking sun, when the clouds grew dark and black, the 
wind began to shriek, and general desolation and gloom per- 
vaded the scene. Rain fell at first in fitful gusts, and then 
abundantly. Mr. Cartmell hastened to the hotel, and con- 
cluded it would be folly to return to Penzance till morning. 
After going to bed it Avas a long time before George and Fred 
could sleep, the storm raged so furiously. The windows rat- 
tled, the rain beating against the panes all night long. Above 
all these sounds could be heard the deep thunder-boom of the 
breaking billows. 

In the morning they rode back to Penzance under a blue 
sky, and in pleasant sunlight, passing on their way an inn 
Avhich has still for its sign, "First and Last Hotel in Eng- 
land." 

Mrs. Cartmell had worried a little about their absence, but 
wisely concluded it was owing to tlie storm. Afterwards the 
ladies and girls went to Land's End in a break, driven by Mr. 
Cartmell and George in alternation. 

Mr. French went to Glasgow in the autumn, and made 
several long cruises on the Verbena among the islands, and 
along the coast of the British Isles. He took the Cai'tmells 
to the Scilly Islands, west of Land's End; to Southampton, 
the growing southern seaport ; to the Isle of Wight, the home 
of Tennyson ; to the Jersey Islands, and along the eastern 
coast of Entjland. 



268 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



The next spring, when they were ready to leave, with 
great reluctance, the land of their forefathers, Mr. French 




King's Road and Pier al Biighton. 



met them at Brighton, a very old watering resort, not now 
so fashionable as it formerly was, and carried them in com- 
fort and luxury across the North Sea to Norway. 



CHAPTER XIX 

NORVv^AY,— PLACES AND PEOPLE 

They were awakened early one morning by Fred, who 
had appointed himself watchman to catch the first sight of 
the Continent. Hurrying on deck, they found that they were 
entering the harbor of Trondhjem, and a few moments later 
found them among the many vessels crowding its waters. 

" What a busy place," said Miss Gray, '' and what a vari- 
ety in the style of the vessels ! See the one we are passing 
now ! It looks like pictures of the old Viking ships." 

" It is a fishing-boat, and is built on nearly the same 
model that has been followed for centuries." 

" Are we going ashore right away, papa ? " asked Nellie. 

" Yes; Mr. French Avishes us to go with him to the hotel," 
responded Mr. Cartmell, " where he expects to meet a friend, 
Mr. Larssen, who, with his son Gustav, is to travel with us a 
few weeks." 

Mr. Larssen Avas waiting for them as they expected with 
Gustav, a bright boy about Fred's age. Through the summer 
he proved to be a most desirable travelling companion. 

" I think, Mr. Larssen," said Mr. French, " that as you 
have been here before, we will leave the plans for the day in 
your hands, and ask you to show us the places of interest." 

" Have you always lived in Norway, Mr. Larssen ? " Mrs. 
Cartmell inquired. 

" Yes. I can say with our poet ; — 

" ' Among the cloud-crowned mountains. 
High in the mighty IS'orth, 
Wliere by the rushing fountains 
The giant pines stand forth; 

269 



270 



:N0RTHEKN EUROPE 




NORAVAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 271 

Where stand the ancient rune-stones, 

Like old gray-bearded men, 
Inspiring every Northern heart 

To daring deeds again, — 
There first I saw the sunlight, 

There grew I, strong and free; 
There first my love was kindled, 

My Motherland, for thee.' " 

•' Where do you propose to go first ? " 

"Let us go first to the cathedral where the coronation 
takes place." 

As they rode along, Mr. Larssen called their attention to 
paper-mills and other factories, and to the shipyards and 
the warehouses, which, lining the quays, denoted extensive 
commerce. 

They found the cathedral a beautiful Gothic building 
nearly nine hundred years old. The carvings, both in wood 
and stone, were extremely interesting. 

After leaving the cathedral, Florence expressed a wish to 
visit some of the shops, and here they found silver ornaments 
of quaint native designs. 

The boys noticed that on entering a shop all gentlemen 
removed their hats, and did not replace them until their pur- 
chases had been made. They were also surprised to see the 
shopkeeper, when the business was completed, shake hands 
with his customers, thanking them for their patronage. 

" Do they always do so ? " whispered Fred to Gustav. 

"Always; and you will see that when our drivers are 
paid they will do the same. In fact, it is customary all 
through. Scandinavia." 

Nellie's attention was attracted by a curious cloak, and 
she called her mother to examine it. Meanwhile she asked 
the storekeeper about it. 

"That," said the merchant, "is made of down from the 



272 NORTHERN EUROPE 

eider-duck, and it is worth a thousand dollars. Here are 
smaller capes of the same material, and here are some rugs." 

'' I see," said Mrs. Cartmell, " that even in your country 
down is high priced." 

"There are different grades. This cloak is made from 
the lining of the first nest, and is the most expensive." 

" How many nests do they make ? " inquired Fred. 

"Three. For the first nest the duck plucks the light 
brown down from her breast for a lining. This is taken by 
the hunters, and the nest is rebuilt, the drake furnishing the 
lining this time. The second lining is white in color, and 
of a coarser quality. It is used for pillows and quilts, and 
is much cheaper than the first. Again the poor birds are 
robbed, and a third time they build. This time they are 
left in peace ; for if they are disturbed now they give up in 
despair, and seek a different nesting-place." 

After making a few purchases they thanked the shop- 
keeper for his courtesy, and returned to the Verbena. Dinner 
was served in the cosey little saloon, after which, gathering on 
deck, they rested, and enjoyed the view of the old city, with 
the mountains towering in the background. 

Mr. Larssen and Gustav had just returned from a trip to 
the North Cape. They brought out photographs and sketch- 
books to show while they gave an account of their journey. 

" We sailed from Bergen, keeping inside the islands, so that 
we had a fine view all the way. The coast is very rugged, 
and after the first day we sailed almost in the shadow of the 
mountains which line the shore. 

" The more southerly mountains, as you see here, are 
heavily wooded, pine and fir predominating ; farther north 
the willow and birch are the most common, and a dwarf birch 
is the last tree that is found. We gathered quite a variety of 
wild-flowers at the base of the cape, but the photograph shows 
you how bare it is of vegetable life." 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLP: 



273 



" Did you go to the top of it ? " 

" Oh, yes ! I wouldn't have missed that for anything," 
returned Gustav. " We left the steamer at ten in the even- 
ing, and were over an hour making the ascent, which is very 
rough." 




North Cape. 

" Was the view fine ? " queried Mrs. Cartmell. 

"Dreary enough," responded Mr. Larssen. "The moun- 
tains to the south were barren and forbidding, while north 
stretched the Arctic Ocean, with no ship in sight except the 
steamer which had brought us. 

" It seemed so strange to watch the sun as it sank, and to 
think that it was midnight. There were a few light clouds in 



274 NORTHERN EUROPE 

the sky, just enough to give brilliancy of coloring. The sun 
sank until it was only a few degrees from the horizon, then, 
changing its course, began to rise. It was an impressive sight, 
and gave one a feeling almost of weirdness." 

" What is the white that shows on the side of the cape ? " 
asked Nellie, who was studying the photograph which she 
held in her hand. 

"That is a glacier," replied Mr. Larssen. "We saw a 
number of them on our journey, and noticed their influence in 
the formation of the valleys and mountains." 

"Did you stop at Hammerf est ? " inquired Mr. French. 

"Yes; and found it a busy little place, reminding me of 
fishing-villages that I have seen in New England. On page 
273 is a picture showing how closely the houses are built, 
and giving a good idea of its wharves and Avarehouses. 

"A newspaper is published there, and the schools are 
good. It is difficult to realize that one is so far north, and to 
think that but for the Gulf Stream the climate would be like 
that of central Greenland." 

" I liked Tromsoe better than I did Hammerfest, but I 
don't think father did," said Gustav. 

" What did you see there ? " asked Florence. 

" It is an important fishing-town, and exports a great d-eal 
of fish to southern Europe. We saw quantities of split fish 
hanging on frames to dry, as you see in the photograph. 

" The livers of the cod and shark are tried out for the oil, 
which is so much used in medicine." 

"AVas that all that was interesting in the place ? " 

" You would have liked to visit the encampment of Lapps, 
which is only a short distance from Tromsoe. It didn't seem 
as if the few huts we saw could accommodate all the people 
in the encampment ; but we were told that except in very 
severe weather a Lapp lies down to sleep wherever he may 
happen to be, and is not disturbed by such trifles as stones 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 



275 



for bed or snow for covering. The huts were mound-shaped, 
and were made of a framework of timber, covered first with 
skins and then with turf. The door is usually hung so that 
it swings to of itself ; but as it supplies all the light and air 
which enter this arrangement is not so desirable as you 
might think." 

" Did the people look as you expected ? " inquired Miss 
Gray. 

"Not exactly ; they are lighter than I had imagined. Blue 
eyes are quite as common as black ones, and some of the 




Fish Drying, TromsSe. 



girls are really blond. They are very short, one five feet 
in height being rare ; and you scarcely ever see one who is 
well formed. On the next page are two photographs. The 
faces are heavy and uninteresting, as you see. The dress is 
picturesque, being made almost entirely of reindeer-skins with 



276 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



the hair left on. It is warm and comfortable, but untidy to 
the last degree." 




A Lapp Boy. 



" Did they have many reindeer with them ? " asked Fred, 
always anxious to learn all he could in rega,rd to the natural 
world. 

" Oh, yes ! They are very eager to show the herds to 
tourists, and of course every one wishes to see them. A 
more useful animal does not exist, and the Lapps are abso- 



F- 





■J.-^-' 



.v/},- 



Ir^M^^ 



.J 



278 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



lutely dependent on the creatnre. It is their Beast of bur- 
den, its flesh and milk supply food, its skin furnishes clothing, 
and a covering for the tents. Among the articles offered for 
sale we saw rugs and slippers made of skins ; knives, spoons, 

and various fancy 
articles of horn ; 
and thread manu- 
factured from the 
sinews." 

" I have some 
of the thread in 
m y pocket-book," 
continued Gustav ; 
" I think you may 
like to see it." 

The little skein 
was found to be 
very fine and even, 
and stronger than 
sewing-silk. 

" The reindeer 
is milked but once 
a week. This is 
quite an exciting 
performance, as the 
creature is never 
tame enough to stand still, but must be lassoed and held. 
|The milk is very rich, rather like goat's milk in flavor." 

" Well, children," observed Mrs. Cartmell, " while we have 
been so pleasantly entertained, we have forgotten it is grow- 
ing late, and young folks ought to be sleeping." 

"Whj-, mamma!" said Nellie, "the sun hasn't set yet!" 
"Very true, my dear; but you forget how far north we 
are ; my watch says eleven o'clock." 




A Group of Lapp Boys. 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 279 

" Eleven o'clock ! " repeated Nellie in astonishment. 
" Isn't it nice to have such long days ? I'd like to stay 
here all the time." 

'' Ah ! you like the daylight/' responded her father ; 
''but how would it be when, instead of the sun shining on 
you for twenty-two hours, it was invisible for that length 
of time, only peeping above the horizon for two hours each 
day ? " 

" How dreadful ! " cried Florence ; " the midnight sun is 
delightful, but midday moon and stars are different. Per- 
haps, after all, I would rather have the days and nights more 
evenly divided, as they are Avith us." 

"Ah, Miss Florence," said Mr. Larssen, "you should see 
our glorious northern Uglits ! They are beyond description in 
their coloring and brilliancy, and do much to atone for the 
lack of daylight. But we must remember that it really is 
late, and say ' Good-night.' " 

It was decided to stop next at Molde, leave the yacht, and 
drive through the famous Komsdal, which is considered the 
most beautiful valley in Norway. The situation of Molde is 
exceptionally fine. Mountains, some of whose peaks are more 
than six thousand feet high, shut off the cold north winds, 
and consequently a marked difference was noticed between 
vegetation here and at Trondhjem. 

The fields were gay with blossoms, and almost every house 
had its garden as well as its windows filled with flowering 
plants. All through their journey this same love of plants 
was noticed. 

Miss Gray thought that the long winters must be the 
cause of so much attention being paid to window-gardening. 

Before the town lay the fiord, looking like a beautiful 
lake, and beyond rose a grand range of mountains which 
stretched the entire length of the fiord. 

The view from the hotel was so fine that Mrs. Cartmell 



280 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



expressed her readiness to form her ideas of Norwegian 
scenery from this one window. 

The other members of the party differing with her, how- 

The Stolkjaer 




The Cariole, Carriage Used in Norway. 



ever, it was decided that the Verbena should take them 
through the fiord to a station from which they could ride 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 281 

fai'ther up the valley. This plan was carried out, and in due 
time they found themselves in readiness for the drive. 

They were amused by the number and character of the 
carriages awaiting them. The most comfortable, called a 
cariole, was a gig-like affair, with very long shafts, on which 
rested a seat for one person; back of this was a place for 
baggage, upon which the post-boy was to ride. The ladies 
were rather surprised when they learned that they were to 
drive for thejuselves, but the sturdy little horses were so in- 
telligent and gentle that it proved a very pleasant experience. 
The boys espied a different vehicle, called a stolkjaer, which 
they decided to engage. 

This would accommodate two passengers; but as the seat 
came directly over the axle, and was made without springs, 
their journey was rather uncomfortable in spite of the fine 
roads. 

It was past noon when they stopped to change horses and 
dine at a farm which served as a posting-station. Here they 
found, as they had noticed all along the way, instead of one 
large house, two or three small ones, containing not more than 
three rooms each. 

The farmer's wife welcomed them most hospitably, and 
hastened to prepare their dinner, which Mr. Larssen told 
them was such a meal as would be served them at any station 
on the route. " You will have salmon until you are tired of 
it," he said, " and cheeses of different kinds, sometimes as 
inany as a dozen on the table at once. You can ^generally 
obtain eggs and plenty of milk. Flatbread you will have 
everywhere, and will be interested to see it made. It is not 
particularly nutritious, and is so thin that one can eat almost 
any number of the cakes and still be unsatisfied." 

As they came out of the house after finishing their dinner 
they saw one of the women seated before the door engaged 
in the preparation of flatbread. She rolled the dough into 



282 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



sheets a foot or more in diameter, and in thickness and color 
resembling coarse strawboard. These she placed over the 
fire to bake very quickly, and then piled them away until 
needed. 

" How they seem to utilize every inch of land," said Mr. 
Cartmell, looking off over the fields. 

" Indeed they do ! " replied Mr. Larssen. " Snppose we 
take the rest of the day to inspect this farm, and resume our 
journey to-morrow. That will give you an opportunity to 




Making Bread. 

observe the home-life in the family of one of the more pros- 
perous farmers." 

" I think that would suit us all nicely," said Mr. French ; 
and the others agreed heartily to this proposal. 

The hay-field, Avhere they first went, was a busy scene, 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 



283 



women as well as men being employed there, not only in the 
lighter work, but even in the mowing. 

'' How very carefully they cut around every tree and 
rock," remarked Mrs. Cartmell. 

^' Yes ; and in very rocky fields you may see the mowers 
use a sickle, and in some places shears, in order to obtain 
every blade of grass. In many of the mountainous regions 
you will see wire ropes stretched from the top of a precipice 
to the ground below. The hay mowed on the high land is done 
up securely in bales, and slid down the cable to the valley." 

" What a funny way to dry it ! " exclaimed Nellie, watch- 
ing the women hang it on long frames. "What do they do 
that for ? " 

" So that air may blow through and help in the drying," 
answered her father. " So much rain falls in Norway that 
hay must be made as quickly as possible." 

" What crops are most frequently cultivated ? " asked 
Mrs. Cartmell. 

" Hay is the most 
important one,"-Fe-- 
plied Mr. Lars sen; 
"^ barley is the chief 
grain, as barley bread 
is the principal article 
of food among the 
peasants. You will 
also see pease, beans, 
and some hops in the 
fields. 

"It may sound 
strange to you, still it is a fact, that barley will grow two 
and a half, and pease three inches in twenty-four hours ; but 
remember there are only about ten weeks from sowing to 
reaping, and vegetable growth is very rapid." 




Farm Buildings. 



284 NORTHERN EUROPE 

The Lam, Avhich they next inspected, was a large building, 
with accommodations for a great number of cattle. 

" Have you a pasture at a distance ? " asked Mr. Cartniell. 
" I noticed but few cows in the field." 

" They have all gone to the hill farm Avhere they are sent 
every summei'," replied the boy who was conducting them 
about, while Gustav acted as interpreter. " Just as soon as 
it is warm enough, two of ray sisters and. a boy go with them 
up on the mountains, where they stay until cool weather. 
The boy Avatches the herd, and the girls make butter and 
cheese. They are always glad when it is time for them to 
go. Last year my sisters made more butter and cheese than 
any other girls in the valley." 

" Is that a flagstaff ? " asked ISTellie, noticing a pole on the 
roof of the barn. 

<'No; that is where we hang the birds' sheaf when the 
harvest is gathered. We always remember them, and they 
are all very friendly." 

'' What do you do after your summer work is over ? " 
asked George. 

" Sometimes my father goes with the fishermen, or he 
joins the lumbermen and fells trees, which are floated down 
to the sawmill when spring comes. It is a very hard life, 
and we hate to have him go, but the crops fail so often that 
we can't always depend on the farm. We calculate on losing 
about one year in five. While he is away, my brothers aird I 
have the farm-work to do; my mother and the girls spin, 
weave, and knit. Part of the time we go to school ; but the 
schoolmaster divides his time between this place and one far- 
ther up the valley, so we do not have as much schooling as 
we would like. You see, the pastor will not confirm u.s until 
we have finished certain studies, and unless we have been 
confirmed it is very hard to get employment in any of the 
cities," 



NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 285 

" What sports do you have ? " asked George. 

" We have our sledges, and one of our favorite pastimes is 
running on skees or snow-shoes. Wait a moment. I'll get 
mine and show them to you." 

The skees proved to be strips of hard wood six feet long, 
pointed, and curved upward at one end. These are strapped 
on like sVates, and Gustav told them that running on skees 
is to Norwegian boys what skating is in other countries. 

'' Sometimes we hire a fiddler and have a dance, and peo- 
ple will come from a long distance ; but travelling is so hard 
that we do not see many people through the winter." 

" You won't like your bed," said Gustav to George as 
they bade each other good-night. 

"Why not?" demanded George. ''I'm tired enough to 
sleep anywhere." 

"You wiir think it strange, in the first place, to have to 
go up two steps to reach it ; you will feel shut in by the 
wooden top and sides ; and then it is so short that you Avill 
have to double up in order to lie down. They are all alike, 
and travellers always complain." 



CHAPTER XX 

NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 

The return to Molde proved to be fully as interesting as 
the journey from that place. 

Miss Gray said there was so much to see that twice trav- 
ersing the road Avas scarcely enough. Many things they had 
overlooked attracted them now, and the more familiar objects 
took on an added beauty. 

'' Where do we go now ? " inquired Gustav of George 
after they had reached the yacht. 

'' I think Mr. French said the Geiranger fiord came next. 
That is just south of us, isn't it ? " 

'' Yes ; and it is one of the grandest. Father was reading 
a fine description of it the other day. Let me find' it for 
you." 

" What is a fiord ? " asked Florence, as Gustav disap- 
peared in search of his book. 

" It is an inlet of the sea, longer and narrower than a bay, 
and having bolder shores. They usually send great branches 
far inland. Sogne, the longest, stretches a hundred miles in 
shore. Here is Gustav ready to read you what the ' Best 
Tour in Norway' says." 

" ' No adjective has yet been coined that could adequately convey an 
idea of the stupendous magnificence of the Geiranger fiord. Imagine a 
dark waterway, absolutely placid, and in no place more than a few hun- 
dred yards wide, bordered on either side by gigantic walls of gray and 
black granite from four to five thousand feet high. They shoot up in a 
line so straight that a stone dropped from the summit must fall direct 
into the water. And these mighty precipices extend all along the 

28G 



288 I^ORTHERN EUROPE 

course of the fiord for many miles, until at lengtli botli sliores circle 
round and join in a vast ampliltlieatre. It is one of tliose rare scenes 
of nature wliicli overwlielms the mind that contemplates it.' " 

A few clays later found the Verbena on the wonderful 
Geiranger fiord. As it sped along in the shadow of the 
towering cliffs, the voyagers gazed in awe at the wonderful 
scene before them. The water, which was of exquisite clear- 
ness, reflected every detail of the mighty panorama, increas- 
ing in this way the apparent height of the mountains, and 
making the travellers feel as if their little craft were sus- 
pended in mid-air. 

"One hardly wishes to speak," observed Mr. Cartmell ; 
'■' there is so much to see, and the beauty is so awful." 

" That is what every tourist feels," said Mr. Larssen ; 
"and when the clouds rest on the mountains they shut one 
in so that it is really oppressive." 

" See how ruffled the water is in that one spot," said 
Mrs. Cartmell, pointing towards the shore. 

" It is probably caused by a small waterfall that comes 
from such a height that it falls in spray, and would not be 
noticed but for that little disturbance on the surface of the 
water. There are many such. Even in this land of water- 
falls Geiranger fiord is noted for the number it has." 

" It seems as if there were more than when we were here 
three years ago," said Gustav. 

" That is very probable ; for many of them are dependent 
on heavy rains or melting snow, and in dry weather would 
disappear entirely." 

" Here is the finest of all ! " exclaimed Gustav ; and look- 
ing ahead they saw a narrow passageway, on the left of which, 
from a perpendicular cliff, fell four streams of water. " They 
call it the Seven Sisters, but there never are seven." 

"That is Pulpit Eock on the opposite side," said Mr, 



NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 



289 



French. " Isn't the resemblance to an old-fashioned pulpit 
perfect ? " 

" Here is, what seems to me, one of the strangest features 
of the whole region/' said Mr. Larssen, shortly after they had 
passed the Seven Sisters. " Look far up on your right and 
see that farmhouse." 

" But how do the 
farmers ever get up 
there?" exclaimed 
Mts. Gartmell. '-It 
looks as if the ascent 
would be impossible." 

"It is sixteen hun- 
dred feet above us, and 
the path, which is al- 
most perpendicular, is 
guarded by chains and 
stanchions. Should 
you like to live there ?" 

''Just imagine it! 
What loneliness, and 
how dreary the win- 
ters must be ! No ; I 
don't wish even to 
visit such a spot," re- 
plied Mrs. Gartmell. 

A few miles far- 
ther on they entered 
the amphitheatre at 
the head of the fiord, 
and came to Merok, a pretty little village, where they landed. 

" We will spend the night here, and in the m_orning take a 
drive over what Mr. Larssen tells me is the finest road in the 
country," said Mr, Cartmelh 




Seven Sisters. 



290 NORTHERN EUROPE 

The afternoon was spent in Avandering about the village, 
admiring the magnilicent view spread before them, and early 
the next day they started on their ride. 

The road turned and twisted up the mountain in number- 
less loops, constantly bringing into sigiit the grandest com- 
binations of hills, cascades, and valleys. Each scene seemed 
to surpass the preceding in beauty, and the mind was fairly 
Avearied in trying to grasp the glories spread before it. 

" What a day this has been ! " said Mrs. Cartmell, after 
their return to the yacht at night. '' I can well imagine that 
this is the grandest of all the fiords." 

" Shall we go to the Sogne fiord ? " inquired Miss Gray. 

"No," replied Mr. French; ''we shall omit that, although 
it is the longest of the fiords, and grand in its scenery. Its 
depth is remarkable, measuring in some places four thousand 
feet, which indicates apparently that these fiords are sub- 
merged valleys, although the coast about Norway is now 
slowly rising." 

"You have been there, I presume," said Miss Gray, ad- 
dressing Mr. Larssen. 

" Yes : Gustav and I visited it three years ago, and also 
spent a few days there this summer. The scenery is wonder- 
fully grand, but rather severe in its character, and Hardanger 
fiord is more generally pleasing. One of its branches, however, 
the Nsersfiord, is to my mind quite equal to the Geiranger. 
As its name indicates, it is very narrow, and the tremendous 
mountains seem to be almost hanging over one's head." 

A. day or two later the Verbena entered the harbor of 
Bergen, and the travellers looked Avith keen interest at the 
forest of masts that surrounded them ; Avhile from the water's 
edge rose the city itself, most picturesquely situated, and 
looking very quaint Avith its sharp red roofs. 

The yacht Avas soon surrounded by roAvboats, Avhose owners 
were anxious to secure passengers Avishing to land, 



292 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Gustav talked to one of the boatmen for a few moments, 
and then called eagerly, " Papa, Mr. Cartmell, we must all go 
ashore ! This man says that it is fish-market day, and you 
know the town is at its best then." 

" Be sure that you take your waterproofs and umbrellas," 
called Mr. Larssen, as they went to their staterooms to pre- 




Fish Marhet, Bergen. 

pare for the landing. ''The weather is threatening, and 
Bergen is proverbial for the number of its rainy days, five 
out of seven being unpleasant. The annual rainfall is about 
seventy inches." 

All were quickly in readiness, and taking their places 
in the rowboats were soon carried to land. A short walk 
brought them to the Fish Market, a place where the fishing- 
boats lay all along the shore. The men and women in charge 
were shouting to passers-by to call attention to the fine quality 
of what they had to sell, or sometimes holding aloft a live 



NORWAY, —FIORDS AND FALLS 293 

fish or lobster that all might see how desirable it was. Most 
of the smaller fish were in tubs of water, being taken out and 
killed as they were sold. 

The streets presented a very lively appearance, and Mr. 
Larssen told them that they would have a better opportunity 
here to observe native costumes than anywhere else in the 
country. 

" Are the national costumes worn as much as they were 
formerly?" queried Mrs. Cartmell. 

" No ; they are disappearing, especially in the larger cities. 
Those that you see here are worn by peasants from the out- 
lying districts. Ready-made clothing is for sale in all the 
towns, and is very generally used; still we shall see many 
quaint costumes." 

" There is one now ! " cried Florence. '' Look quick ! 
Don't those women look pretty with the black jackets, red 
skirts and bodices, and white aprons ? And see those men 
with red caps and knee breeches. What a quantity of silver 
buttons they have on their jackets and vests I " 

" What is done with all this fish ? " questioned Fred. " I 
shouldn't think one city could possibly use such a quantity as 
there is here." 

" A great deal of it is dried and sent to different European 
ports ; the English markets obtain their chief supply here ; 
and hundreds of thousands of barrels of pickled herring are 
sent away every year." 

The boys, with Gustav as guide, decided to see a little of 
the country outside the cit}^ ; while Mr. French, securing car- 
riages, drove with the rest of the party to places of interest 
in the town. Miss Gray wished to see the industrial school 
for girls, of which she had heard, and accordingly their first 
visit was there. 

The pupils, who were from six to eighteen years of age, 
all looked very happy, and were busily engaged in different 



294 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



branches of household ijidustries, or under the direction of 
competent teachers were learning sewing and knitting. 

Mr. Cartmell asked one of the teachers about the schools 
of Norway. 

^'We have good free schools," she said, ''and education is 
compulsory, children from eight to fourteen being required to 
attend school. Military drill for boys, gymnastics, and sing- 
ing are carefully taught. If you see our children on the way 
to school, you will notice that they carry their books in a 
knapsack slung on the back, which tends to keep them erect, 
and to throw out the chest." 

Thanking the teacher for her kindness, they left the 
school, and rode about the city, visiting the suburbs, where 
they saw some very fine residences, with nicely kept grounds. 
They also rode to the pretty lake which supplies the city 




Noriuegian Wedding. Going to Church. 

With water, and then to the old burying-ground, where rests 
the grand old violinist Ole Bull. 

Morning found them on Hardanger fiord, and the whole 
week was spent in exploring this charming bit of Norway. 

" See ! see ! " Gustav exclaimed excitedly ; "here comes a 
wedding-procession." 

In the boat the bride and groom sat in state, he looking 
like a picturesque sailor, she like a queen in the gay costume 



NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 



295 



of the region and her silver bridal crown; while following 
them 'came a number of boats with guests and musicians. 

" Do brides always dress so ? " asked Florence. 

"This is the Hardanger costume; but everywhere the 
peasant girl wears a crown on her wedding-day. If she is 
wealthy it is of beaten 
silver, if poor, of brass 
or tinsel ; and in either 
case it has probably 
been worn for genera- 
tions in her family." 

" They are fine-look- 
ing people," observed 
Mrs. Cartmell. 

"The Norwegians 
generally are tall and 
well-built, and almost 
always have light com- 
plexions. The national 
costumes are usually 
very becoming." 

The next day the 
men, Avith the three 
boys, started for the 
Ringdalfos, or Round 
Valley Fall, but as there was to be some very hard climbing, 
the ladies decided to remain at Odde. 

Before supper the voices of the excursionists were heard, 
and they soon entered, the boys impatient to give an account 
of the day's outing. 

" This has been the very best of all ! " cried George. 
" We climbed over heaps of broken rock to the very foot of 
the cataract. There we could look straight up more than 
eight hundred feet, and see the water as it shot over the 




Ringdalfos, or the Skyaeggedolspos, Norway. 



296 NORTHERN EUROPE 

precipice in one immense volume, and dashed into spray that 
almost blinded us. 

"The noise was deafening; the awful black clifE hung 
directly over us ; and, taken altogether, it was the grandest 
place we have seen yet. We did so wish you were with us, 
but it would have been too hard a jaunt for ladies." 

''These forests make me wild for a chance to go shoot- 
ing and fishing," said Fred. " The country is full of game, 
and salmon are plenty in many of the streams." 

It was decided that Mr. Cartmell and the ladies should go 

from Odde across the country to Christiania, and thence to 

Stockholm, while the others continued their journey in the 

yacht, spending a few days in Denmark. 

The trip overland was very enjoyable, and so varied as to 

J? 
be extremely interesting. Carioles took them to Hitterdal ; 

then followed a charming sail doM'n the lake to Skien, where 
they found the larger steamer, which took them to Chris- 
tiania. Rooms were secured at a comfortable hotel, and after 
a restful night, our party was ready to visit points of interest 
in the Norwegian capital. They rode first to the Royal Gar- 
dens, in the midst of which is the palace, an unattractive 
brick building containing little of interest. 

They spent but little time there, preferring to go to the 
University, where they were received by one of the professors. 

" What are the terms of admission to the University ? " 
queried Mr. Cartmell. 

" The tuition is free to all native Norwegians who can pass 
the entrance examinations," was the reply. " We believe in 
educating our people as well as possible. The privilege is 
appreciated, and our classes are always well filled." 

The next day was spent among the stores, observing the 
customs of the people, and the day following found them on 
the way to Stockholm. 



CHAPTER XXI 

DENMARK AND S'WEDEN 

The yacht, with Mr. Lai-ssen, Mr. Trench, and the boys on 
board, sailed down the Hardanger fiord, turned to the south, 
and shaped its course for Denmark. 

" What is to be our route, Captain ? '' asked Fred, as that 
officer joined them on deck. 

"Come to my stateroom, and I will show you exactly 
by the chart. You notice that although the coast-line of 
Denmark is very irregular, the number of good harbors is 
singularly small, none being found on the west coast. The 
shore on that side is sandy, and swept by strong currents 
which are steadily eating away the land. The eastern coast 
affords better opportunities for anchorage, and here you ob- 
serve there are several ports. We sail direct for Copenhagen, 
and make our only stop there." 

" Does this country resemble Norway ? " inquired George 
of Mr. Larssen. 

"Ko ; it is a low country with an undulating surface. Ag- 
riculture is the principal occupation, four-fifths of the land 
being under cultivation. Grain is raised in large quantities, 
and much of it is exported. The dairy products are far- 
famed, and Danish horses and cattle are eagerly sought by 
other countries. Shipbuilding is an important industry, and 
at Copenhagen you will see a number of prosperous ship- 
yards. The coast-line is so broken that a great deal of the 
inland commerce is carried on by water, though most of the 
larger towns are connected by rail." 

The harbor of Copenhagen presented a spectacle of busy 

297 



298 NORTHERN EUROPE 

life. Merchantmen were kept busy loading and nnloading at 
the various wharves, and the boys noticed that many differ- 
ent flags were displayed. 

"This looks as if the place were entitled to its name," 
remarked Mr. French. 

" What does Cojjenhagen mean ? " asked George. 

" It signifies ' Merchants' Haven,' and judging from the 
amount of shipping we see, the term is most applicable. The 
new canal, which Germany has just opened across the south- 
ern part of the peninsula, will, I suppose, materially affect 
the commerce of Copenhagen. It will divert travel from the 
long, perilous passage around the north of Denmark, by pro- 
viding a short, safe route from the mouth of the Elbe to the 
Baltic." 

The city, as they found, is built on two islands, between 
which lies a safe, commodious harbor. 

'' We miss the hills we have been seeing so recently," said 
Mr. French. 

" Yes ; the highest land on this island is less than six 
hundred feet above sea level," replied Mr. Larssen. 

The boys were much pleased with the appearance of the 
streets which they traversed. The houses were either of 
brick or stone, and their appearance denoted comfort and 
thrift on the part of the occupants. Mr. Larssen told them 
that nowhere in Copenhagen would they find the overcrowded, 
filthy tenements which are too common in America. 

The excessive politeness which was displayed by everyone 
rather amused our friends. Men, instead of passing each other 
with a hasty nod, stopped to shake hands, or even kissed each 
other in a very affectionate manner. 

" Here is the Museum of Northern Antiquities," said Mr. 
Larssen ; '' we shall find here a magnificent collection." 

As they entered the door they were met by a guide who 
conducted them through the rooms. They learned that he 



DENMARK AXD SWEDEN 



299 



was a professor in one of the schools, and their pleasure was 
greatly increased by the information he gave. 

"There is another museum not far from here which con- 
tains the work of one man, — the sculptor Thorwaldsen. We 
shall find that collection as interesting as this, though in an 
entirely different way." 

" Did Thorwaldsen make all these ? " asked Fred as they 
entered the vestibule. 

"Yes, and many more. This building contains six hundred 
specimens, either ori- 
ginal or reproductions 
of his works. He was 
possessed of unflagging 
industry and unequalled 
genius. Loving his 
native land devotedly, 
he bequeathed to the 
people the contents of 
this building and the 
greater part of his for- 
tune." 

The grave of the 
sculptor is in an open 
quadrangle which the 
building surrounds, and 
is marked only by a low 
mound of ivy which 
grows luxuriantly. 

" Wouldn't you like to get a bird's-eye view of the city ? " 
asked Mr. Larssen. "It is not far to the Round Tower, where 
we will have a fine opportunity." 

" Isn't that the famous tower which Peter the Great as- 
cended on horseback ? " asked George. 

" Yes," responded Mr. Larssen ; "' and it is said that the 




Thorwaldsen Museum, Copenhagen. 



300 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Empress Catherine reached the summit with her coach and 
horses. The ascent is very gradual." 

"Isn't tliis a charming view!" exclaimed Mr. French as 
they reached the top. " There is Sweden just across the 
sound, and north lies Elsinore, where Hamlet lived." 

" In Sweden, one misses the dark green of the Norwegian 
forests," remarked Mr. Larssen. "It is a curious fact that 




The Bourse, Copenhagen. 



no cone-bearing trees 
grow in this country. 
The beech is the most 
common tree here." 

"What is that 
curious spire which 
we see yonder ? " 
asked Mr. French. 

"That is the Ex- 
change, or Bourse," 
replied Mr. Larssen. 

" The tower is formed by the twisted tails of three enormous 
dragons, whose heads rest on the corners of the tower. In 
this direction we see the spire of the Church of Our Saviour, 
with a winding staircase on the outside." 

In the latter part of the afternoon it was proposed that 



Church of Our Saviour, Copenhagen, 



DENMARK AND SWEDEN 301 

they should go to the Lange Lime, or Long Line. This is 
the fashionable drive of the city, and stretches along the 
shores of the sound, affording a charming view. The place 
was gay with people, walking or riding ; and the boys were 
glad of an opportunity to salute the king, who was riding 
quietly, attended by only two servants in the scarlet livery of 
the state. 

" Let us spend this forenoon at the Palace of Rosenborg," 
suggested Mr. Larssen the following morning. "We shall 
find it a pleasant walk there, and I am sure we shall enjoy the 
building itself." 

The palace is surrounded by extensive grounds, and the 
travellers were tempted to linger a little as they passed under 
the fine trees which line the approach to the entrance. 

" Isn't it here that a monument has been erected to Hans 
Christian Andersen ? " asked Gustav. 

" Yes," replied his father ; " there it is yonder. We will 
walk over to it." 

The famous author is represented sitting, and seems to be 
telling one of those inimitable stories that never fail to charm, 
whether the listener be child or adult. 

" The sculptor has succeeded in getting a wonderfully life- 
like attitude," said Mr. French ; " one almost expects to hear 
the story which he is telling." 

SWEDEN. 

While one division of our party had been sight-seeing in 
Copenhagen, the other had crossed Norway, as described in 
the previous chapter, and come to the Swedish city of Goth- 
enburg by train. This is an important commercial centre of 
the country, and is called the Liverpool of Scandinavia. 

Its chief interest to most travellers lies in the fact that it 
is the terminus of the Gotha Canal. 



302 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



Mr. Cartmell found that they were just in time to take 
one of the little steamers which ply between Gothenburg and 
Stockholm ; and they drove directly to the pier, where they 
engaged passage for the trip. 

" How long will it take to go by this way ? " inquired Miss 
Gray. 

''Sixty hours," replied Mr. Cartmell. "We can go in 
twelve by rail, but the canal is too remarkable a piece of 
engineering to be passed." 

" Is it very wonderful ? " asked JSTellie. 

''Very wonderful indeed/' returned her father; "for in- 
stead of cutting through the mountains, as one would sup- 
pose, a series of locks has been arranged by which a vessel is 




A Lock on the Gotha Canal. 



floated to a height of three hundred and eighty feet above 
sea-level, and then lowered again in the same manner. I will 
call you in the morning, when we reach the Falls of Trolhatta, 
so that you may see how a steamer climbs a hill." 



DENMARK AND SWEDEN 303 

When they came on deck, in response to Mr. Cartmell's 
early summons, they found they were just entering the first 
lock. Tlie heavy gates closed behind them, the water-basin 
filled slowly, and as it filled they rose to the level of the 
next lock. They passed in this manner each of the eleven 
locks, nearly three hours being occupied in the ascent. 

A little later the canal connects with Lake Wener, one of 
the largest lakes in Europe. 

"I had no idea there was such a large lake in Sweden," 
remarked Mrs. Cartmell as they passed among the pretty 
islands which dot its surface. 

" I think few people realize it," returned Mr. Cartmell ; 
''but we sail a hundred miles on this lake, then enter Lake 
Vik, and from that go to Lake Wetter, which is seventy miles 
long. Two hundred miles of our journey are on the natu- 
ral waterways, which are connected by about sixty miles of 
canal." 

"Why was this canal built ? " asked Florence. 

"The chief object of the government in undertaking it 
was to provide a route by which vessels might go from the 
Baltic to the North Sea, so that in case of war with Denmark 
communication with the rest of the world should not be shut 
off by that country." 

Much of the journey was in the night, so that the sight- 
seers lost some interesting views ; but they all agreed with 
Mrs. Cartmell, who remarked on reaching Stockholm, •' One 
always thinks of a journey by canal as the most monotonous 
kind of travelling, but it would hardly be possible to have 
greater variety than we have had. We have ascended and 
descended hills by means of numerous locks ; on Lake Wener 
we were out of sight of land ; again the trees almost met 
overhead ; we have passed cities and farms, castles and cot- 
tages, and seen more of Sweden than we could in travelling 
four times as far in any other way." 



304 NORTHERN EUROPE 

At Stockholm, when the two divisions of the party came 
together, Mrs. Cartmell laughingly observed that it seemed 
as if the young folks never would get through telling the dif- 
ferent incidents of their journeys, and describing the places 
they had visited. 

The Venice of the North, as Stockholm is called, delighted 
all with its beauty. It is built partly on the main land and 
partly on nine islands. As a consequence, much of the traffic 
and communication is carried on by means of boats, and small 
steam-ferries and rowboats ply incessantly from one point to 
another. 

" Is education general in Sweden ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. 

'' It is compulsory, and you will rarely find an adult who 
is unable to read and write. Your schools have borrowed 
their system of gymnastics from us, and Sloyd is taught to 
your pupils as to ours. The net of wires over our streets 
bears witness to the fact that the telephone is in common 
use. We have more miles of telegraph wires than most coun- 
tries of our size." 

" Is university education common ? " asked Mr. French. 

" About one man in six hundred and seventy is a univer- 
sity graduate. The advantages are so great and so easily 
accessible that they are eagerly sought. We have two fine 
universities : one at Lund in the southern part of the coun- 
try ; the other at Upsala, some forty miles from here. No 
one is allowed to enter the ministry, or practise medicine or 
law, who has not received his degree at one of these two 
places, even though he may have graduated with high honors 
at some foreign college." 

" It was at Upsala that Linnseus taught, was it not ? " 
queried Miss Gray. 

" Yes. One sees there a statue of the great naturalist." 

A pleasant ride led to the Mosebacke, a hill where a high 
iron observatory has been erected. A steam elevator carried 



DENMARK AND SWEDEN 305 

them to the top, where they enjoyed a magnificent view of the 
city.' 

" Just look this way ! " exclaimed Gustav, proudly point- 
ing towards the Baltic. " Did you ever see a more charming 
marine view. Then turn to the opposite direction, and look 
at Lake Maclaren, with all its islands. Could anything be 
more beautiful ? " 

A long time was spent in the tower, noting one point of 
interest after another, as Mr. Larssen or his son indicated 
them ; and the enthusiasm expressed was sufficient to satisfy 
even Gustav, who remarked that he loved Stockholm so much 
he wanted everyone else to love it too. 

" Not a difficult thing to require when a city is as beau- 
tiful as this," returned Miss Gray. "It seems to me that 
your parks and public gardens are the most beautiful I ever 
saw." 

" Can't we go to the Deer Park to-day, papa ? " asked 
Gustav. " That is my favorite among all the city parks." 

'' Yes ; I think we can scarcely find a pleasanter manner 
to spend the rest of the day," replied Mr. Larssen. 

A little steamer soon carried them all to the island 
which contained the Djurgarden, the most extensive of the 
city's pleasure-grounds. A good band was playing near the 
entrance; and groups of people strolling over the grass, or 
seated picnic fashion under the trees, gave a gay, holiday 
aspect to the place. 

The next morning Mr. Cartmell, Mr. Larssen, and the 
three boys left Stockholm for a trip to the copper- and iron- 
mines which add so much to the wealth of the country. 

It was not deemed advisable for the ladies to undertake 
this, but they were quite content to spend their time in the 
charming Swedish capital while awaiting the return of the 
excursionists. 

1 See p. 306. 



306 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Tell us all about it," demanded Nellie, as they gathered 

in the hotel parlor after the boys returned a few days later. 

"Oh, we can't ! " replied Pred. ''We have seen so much ! 




Stockholm. 
Sweden, 



From here to Dannemora the journey was uneventful. As 
we passed through Upsala we caught a glimpse of the stu- 
dents with their black-and-white caps; but we were too im- 
patient to reach the iron-mines to stop to visit universities, 



DENMARK AND SWEDEN 307 

however fine they might be. Gustav says he is to study 
there by and by. After he enters we shall doubtless feel a 
greater interest in the place than we do at present." 

'' Is the district of Dannemora as mountainous as the iron 
regions of our country ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. 

''No," replied her husband. "It is singular, but the 
surface is lower than the lake which is near by, rendering 
great precautions necessary to avert serious disaster from 
flooding." 

" Are the mines rich ? " queried Miss Gray. 

" Exceptionally so," returned Mr. French. " Some of the 
ore yields seventy per cent, which is considered a very large 
amount." 

" Did you go down very deep ? " asked Nellie. 

"It seemed a long way down," answered Gustav, "though 
w^e didn't visit the deepest ones. There are a number of 
openings, varying in depth from fifty to five hundred feet." 

" How did you go down ? " 

" We had our choice between being lowered in great bas- 
kets operated by pulleys and cables, or going down ladders. 
We chose the baskets. The ladders were almost vertical, and 
so muddy that father said he didn't like to have us go over 
them for fear we might slip." 

" AVhy do Swedish iron and steel rank so high with 
manufacturers ? " asked Miss Gray. 

" Partly because of the purity of the ore ; also on account 
of its being smelted with charcoal." 

" How can they possibly obtain enough charcoal to smelt 
all their ore ? " 

" So much timber is cut for it that the forests are being 
ruined, and government has placed restrictions on the amount 
of ore used." 

" Did you stay long at Dannemora ? " 

"No," answered George; "aside from the mines, there is 



308 NORTHERN EUROPE 

little that is noteworthy, while Dalecarlia is extremely inter- 
esting. We saw more of the ancient dress and customs than 
we found anywhere else ; the language even being so peculiar 
that Gustav couldn't understand it. You know we have no- 
ticed some of the peasants from Dalecarlia carrying passen- 
gers in their rowboats among the islands; but there every one, 
man, woman, or child, used the oars finely. We noticed one 
boat Sunday which had forty rowers. The journey to and 
from church was enlivened in a number of instances by races, 
won as often by women as by men." 

" Do you realize, my friends," said Mr. French, re-enter- 
ing the room at this moment, ''that if we are to carry out 
our plan as we have arranged it for the summer, we can give 
no more time to this charming peninsula of Scandinavia, but 
must go on over the rest of our route. I have been talking 
with Mr. Cartmell, and have sent word to Captain Graham 
to have the Verbena in readiness to start to-morrow. A few 
days more and we shall be in the beautiful Russian capital, 
St. Petersburg." 

This announcement was received with some degree of re- 
gret. Nellie said, " It doesn't seem as if we should like any 
other country so well as these first ones we have visited." 

Still Russia was attractive, and preparations were quickly 
made for the next stage of their journey. 



CHAPTER XXIi 

RUSSIA 

Once more on board the Verbena, with a voyage of nearly 
six hundred miles before them, the travellers made good use 
of their time. There were letters and journals to be written, 
specimens of ores to be duly labelled with date and name 
of place, photographs to be looked over, while last, but by no 
means least, the country to which they were going was the 
theme of much conversation. 

" There is not another country in all Europe of which I 
am so ignorant," said Miss Gray. " Of course we all know 
that it covers an immense area, has a large population, and is 
extremely wealthy in its natural resources : but as to the dress, 
customs, and homes of the people, our ideas are most vague." 

" I think you will find that your experience is common," 
replied Mr. Larssen. '• The annoyances of travelling in Rus- 
sia are so many, that most tourists prefer to keep to the coun- 
tries of Western Europe, while the close supervision of the 
press renders unreliable much that is published here." 

" I hope that we shall have no difficulty in traversing the 
route we have laid out," remarked Mrs. Cartmell ; " for I feel 
that this part of our journey will be extremely interesting to 
us, not only as sight-seers, but as students of history." 

" I anticipate no trouble," returned Mr. French. " We 
shall leave all books and papers, as well as most of our bag- 
gage, on board the yacht. That will be carefully inspected 
by government officers, but we shall carry very little with 
us when we go on shore." 

309 



310 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" Why will there be any more trouble about travelling 
in. Russia than there was in England or Norway ? " inquired 
Nellie. " We went wherever we chose there." 

"The Russian government is very despotic, and allows 
no one, native or foreign, to be free from supervision. The 
press is strictly watched, and any article that meets Avith the 

disapproval of the censors 
is quickly suppressed. If 
newspapers are sent to us 
from home, they will be 
examined before they are 
delivered, and any para- 
graph that is deemed ob- 
jectionable will be cut or 
blocked out." 

" Do Nihilists cause all 
this trouble ?" inquired 
Miss Gray. 

"A great deal of it, per- 
haps, though suspicion is 
inborn in every Russian's 
mind." 

« What do the Nihilists 
want ? " asked George. 
" That is difficult to say. They have a secret organiza- 
tion, and make vague complaints and demands, seemingly con- 
vinced that whatever is, is wrong. The secret police force 
has numberless members constantly on the lookout, and woe 
betide the man or woman who is suspected of Nihilism ! Im- 
prisonment, fine, and exile to Siberia are almost sure to fol- 
low ; and from Siberia few ever return. 

"An absolute monarchy is always fearful, and inclined to 
suspect even its friends. The present Czar, Nicholas II., is a 
liberal man, but all advance in such a country must be slow." 




Nicholas II., Czar of Russia. 



RUSSIA 311 

" In a country like this it is not to be supposed that educa- 
tion receives much attention," said Miss Gray. 

"No ; the degree of illiteracy is terrible. There are schools 
and universities which are easily entered; but education is 
not compulsory, and, laziness being a strong trait in the 
national character, the number of students is small." 

" There was a Russian boy coming over on the steamer 
Avith us who spoke English beautifully," said Fred. " He 
said he could speak French and German too, and didn't 
remember when he learned them." 

" They are generally fine linguists, and speak easily 
when they cannot read or write a language. If the boy you 
met belonged to a wealthy family, they probably had a Ger- 
man nurse for the little ones, a French tutor for the older 
children, and employed an English governess part of the 
time ; so that he learned to speak with each of them with- 
out an effort." 

Conversation was here interrupted by Gustav, who came 
from the wheel-house to announce that they were in sight of 
Kronstadt, the great fortification which protects the capital. 
The cluster of islands upon which this place is built is so low 
that the fortresses seem to rise directly from the water ; and, 
in fact, some of the foundation work is below the surface of 
the sea. It is considered an impregnable naval station, and 
the travellers looked with interest at the great granite-faced 
walls which frowned down on them. These, with the long 
line of magnificent docks and the numerous arsenals, formed a 
picture of war equipment which was depressing to the Ameri- 
cans. They felt a little homesick longing for a glimpse of 
the dear old Stars and Stripes. Just beyond the forts they 
could see some of the vessels belonging to the wonderful 
Russian navy. 

" I suppose there are few navies in the world finer than 
this ? " said Mr. French. 



312 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" Probably not. Russia spares no expense, and allows no 
improvement to escape her. Her seamen and soldiers are 
thoroughly drilled, and there is no nation that cares to come 
in conflict with her." 

The yacht now entered the Neva River, and the twenty- 
mile sail up that imposing stream was full of excitement and 
interest. They were surrounded by shipping of all kinds : 
yachts, merchantmen, passenger-steamers, warships, and row- 
boats met and passed them. It seemed as if it must be some 
gala day. Soon the buildings of the splendid city appeared 
before them, glittering with a dazzling brightness as the sun 
shone on gilded domes and stately towers. 

" What a magnificent city ! " exclaimed Mrs. Cartmell ; 
" but how did they ever come to build in such a place ? The 
walls look almost as if their foundations must be under 
water." 

" They are so in many instances. Stockholm looks very 
low to us as it stands on its islands, but St. Petersburg is 
built in a genuine morass. The site was selected by Peter 
the Great, who called it his window looking into Europe. 
He appreciated such an outlook as none of his predecessors 
had, and wished for greater power on the sea than Russia 
had ever possessed. He was a man of immense energy and 
iron will; and when he had formed a plan it was carried out, 
cost what it might. Therefore, when he determined to move 
the capital of Russia from Moscow to a new city on the Neva, 
the hard conditions of the case didn't hinder him. Thousands 
of workmen perished that the city might be built, but the 
emperor never faltered in his plan. In 1703 the first house 
was built, and nine years later Peter moved his court to the 
new capital." 

''Wasn't Peter the Great the emperor who learned ship- 
building ? " asked Nellie. 

" Yes," replied her father. " He was one of the most 



RUSSIA 313 

remarkable rulers that the world has ever seen. When he 
ascended the throne, he became convinced that in order to pro- 
gress, Russia must have intercourse with other countries, and 
if foreign commerce was carried on, a navy must be organ- 
ized to protect it. With this in view, he disguised himself, 
and went to Avork as a carpenter in a shipyard of Holland. 
He also made careful study of other arts which he thought 
would be useful, and then had his people instructed in them.'' 

"Here are the custom-house officers," said Mr. French. 
" We will have our baggage examined, and make arrangements 
to go ashore immediately." 

This formality was soon over. Mr. French gave directions 
to Captain Graham in regard to the care of the Verbena, and 
the travellers left the yacht, not to return to it for some time. 

" I have engaged rooms at a good hotel," said Mr. Lar- 
ssen. " It is on St. Isaac's Square, where we shall be conve- 
niently situated, and where the outlook is pleasant." 

During the short ride to the hotel our party realized 
vividly that they had entered a new country. Oriental in- 
fluences were shown in the style of the buildings and their 
decoration. 

The young Americans could hardly be persuaded to wait 
until after dinner before beginning their sight-seeing; but 
Gustav, who was usually so ready to accompany them, was 
strangely determined that every one should wait for that 
important meal. No lunch should be substituted. It must 
be the regular dinner. 

" I have been here before, with papa," he said, " and I 
know you will enjoy the table." 

His anxiety for their comfort was explained when the soup 
was brought, and his delight was great as he watched them 
taste the mixture and send it away. It was a remarkable 
compound; and though Russians are fond of it, foreigners 
rarely care for it. It is made of cold beer, in which one 



314 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



finds slices of cucumbers and onions, fragments of meat or 
raw fish, and bits of ice. The dishes which followed this 
uninviting first course were similar to what they had found 
at other hotels of Northern Europe, and the meals were all 
very satisfactory. 

The samovar, which was always on the table, or which 
they often had brought as they sat in the parlor, deserves 
especial mention. 

This is an urn, made of brass, copper, or silver, as the case 
may be. It has a central cylinder which contains burning 
charcoal, and a faucet for drawing off the water. This fur- 
nishes boiling water for the tea, 
which the Russians drink at any 
and all hours, sometimes taking 
ten or twelve glasses in the course 
of a day. 

Tea is taken without milk. 
Sugar is used or not, according 
to taste ; but instead of being 
dissolved in the cup, a lump is 
either held in the hand, and 
nibbled after each sip, or held in 
the mouth. If one likes a little 
flavor of lemon, a thin slice of 
that fruit is placed in a cup, and 
we then have what in America is known as Russian tea. 

Dinner being over, Miss Gray proposed that they should 
visit the grand cathedral which could be seen from the hotel 
windows, and which gives its name to the square. As they 
stepped out-of-doors they found themselves almost in the 
shadow of the immense building, which loomed above them, 
imposing in its size and the richness of its materials. 

Its form is that of a Greek cross, with four equal sides, 
while over the centre towers the great gilded dome. 




Drinking Tea. 



RUSSIA 



315 



"What an immense surface to cover with gold ! " observed 
Miss Gray. 

"No attention is paid to expense when a Russian ruler 
wishes to carry out any plan," replied Mr. Larssen. " I want 
you to notice the wealth of material used in the construction 
of this building. It will serve as a sample of many. The 

St. Isaac Cathedral. 




The Alexander Column. 

St. Petersburg. 

dome is covered with copper overlaid with gold, two hundred 
pounds of the latter metal being used. The columns which 
support the porches, sixty feet high and seven in diameter, 
are solid shafts of Finland granite highly polished. The 
doors, as you notice, are massive bronze." 

'• I should think it would have been difficult to secure a 



316 NORTHERN EUROPE 

firm foundation for so immense a structure in this soil," re- 
marked Mrs. Cartmell. 

" It was ; and though a forest of piles was driven before 
the foundation was laid, it has already settled so that the 
walls have had to be propped and repaired." 

Service was going on as they entered the cathedral; and 
the travellers were greatly interested, as this was the first 
time that they had been in the Greek Church. The women 
in the congregation were largely outnumbered by the men, an 
unusual state of affairs, which may be accounted for by the 
fact that in the Greek Church there are no seats. No musical 
instruments are allowed, and the fine choir of male voices 
rendered the responses in an impressive manner. 

Hundreds of candles were burning on the different shrines, 
and were constantly renewed as one worshipper after another 
handed one to the priest as an offering. 

The robes of the priests were gorgeous ; but Gustav said 
that to see a service in its full glory they ought to come to 
the church on a holy day, when the Metropolitan officiated. 

" He wears a mitre," he said, '* and his jewels and orna- 
ments are superb." 

The interior of the church exceeded in its lavish display 
anything that the tourists had seen. Lapis-lazuli and mala- 
chite were used freely, two great columns of the latter, fifty 
feet in height, attracting especial attention. There were no 
images to be seen anywhere, their place being taken by pic- 
tures, in which the painted drapery is often covered with 
gems which have been given by devout worshippers. 

" Let us ride for a while," said Mr. Cartmell, as they 
emerged from the cathedral. "We can form some acquain- 
tance with the city, and prepare for more definite sight-seeing 
to-morrow." 

The young folks wishing to try a drosky, Mr. Larssen 
signalled some drivers Avho were standing in the square. 



RUSSIA 



317 



This vehicle, Avhich is seen in all Russian cities, is a low, 
one-horse affair with no back to the seat. 

The drivers amused them greatly. They wore a low, 
flat-crowned hat, and a long blue overcoat, which 
was thickly wadded. This was drawn in at the /s^ 
waist by a belt, giving them somewhat the fig- 
ure of a pillow with 
a string tied about it. 



V. 





DrosUy. 



Some of the droskies 
were drawn by one horse 
wearing a very light har- 
ness, most of which was 
fastened to a wooden bow 
over the horse's neck. 
Others had one or two 
more horses at the side 
of the first, guided by a 
single rein, and gallop- 
ing along rapidly. All 
the driving is fast; and 
the horses, most of which have a dash of Tartar blood in 
their veins, are remarkably fine and spirited animals. 

The ride lasted late into the evening, the long golden 
twilight being the most delightful time for seeing the streets 
and the people. Here, as in the cathedral, the absence of 
women and girls was noticeable, and they learned afterwards 



Russian Coachman. 



318 NORTHERN EUROPE 

that throughout Russia they are kept in half Oriental seclu- 
sion, 

Mr. Larssen directed his driver to go to the Islands, and 
the others followed him. This drive led along the handsome 
stone quays, which proved to be the most substantial struc- 
tures they saw during their stay in the city. The houses 
fronting the quays were many of them enormous; but when 
Mr. Larssen told them that some families kept a hundred and 
twenty servants, they were willing to acknowledge that great 
residences were necessary. 

The five islands of the Neva, which are laid out as a park, 
form the favorite pleasure-ground of the people. Mile after 
mile of carriage-road wound in and out, giving here a view 
of broad fields, there thick, dark forests; again, a clear little 
brook rippled by the roadside, or a sudden turn brought to 
sight the glorious Neva. 

It was late before they returned to the hotel to dream of 
droskies, gilded domes, slender spires, and lavish decorations 
of all sorts. 

''What was your impression of St. Petersburg as you saw 
it last evening ? " asked M'r. Larssen at the breakfast-table. 

" It is magnificent," replied Mrs. Cartmell enthusiasti- 
cally. " One cannot but be struck by the immensity of the 
plan of the city, the length and width of the streets, and the 
imposing buildings. Though I must confess to a little feel- 
ing of disappointment on seeing such an amount of stucco 
and paint used where we should look for stone and carving." 

" You will notice that feature throughout the city. Build- 
ings are great rather than fine, and quality is often sacrificed 
to quantity." 

'' We had great fun making out some of the signs in front 
of the stores," said Fred. ''You noticed them, of course. 
There were almost none that were letters, but pictures Avere 
used instead of words. The tea-houses Avere very common, 



RUSSIA 



319 



and their signs showed parties sitting around tables and 
drinking tea; the bakers displayed fancy cakes and bread of 
all kinds ; while the clothing dealers seemed to have repre- 
sented whole wardrobes." 




Russian Store. 



" We were very much amused over some jewelry stores," 
said Nellie. ''They were not satisfied to have paintings of 
different ornaments simply, but had portraits of high officials 
wearing all possible decorations. The milliners, too, had 
pictures of the funniest caps and bonnets you ever saw. 
What makes them have such queer signs ? " 



320 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



'^ It is owing partly to the frightful ignorance of the peo- 
ple, and partly to the number of languages spoken in the city. 
Words would appeal to comparatively few, but the pictures 
are understood by all." 

" Did you notice the scarcity of bookstores ? " remarked 
Mr. Cartmell. " I saw very few." 

" The press is too closely supervised to make publishing 
or bookselling a desirable or profitable business. The present 
Czar is liberal and progressive, and if he lives the censorship 
of the press will doubtless be lessened." 

'' What is the Nevskoi Prospekt ? " asked Nellie. " I heard 
you speak of that last night." 

" It is the principal street of the city, and a magnificent 
thoroughfare it is. It extends for nearly three miles in 
almost a straight line, and is a hundred feet broad. There 
you see the finest shops, the grandest churches, and some 
of the most imposing public buildings. There, too, you will 
see the finest turnouts, and a large number of the fifteen 
thousand droskies belonging in the city." 

" You ought to see it in winter," chimed in Gustav ; " it 

is JiJie then. Rus- 
sians never walk if 
they can help it, and 
in winter everybody 
rides. You have 
seen pictures of 
the Russian sleigh 
and troyka. The 
horse has the high 
arch over his head 
that you saw on 
the drosky horse. The sleigh is often gayly decorated, but in 
the city no bells are used. The drivers shout to give warning 
of their approach. Peasants from the neighboring country, 




Russian Sleigh. 



RUSSIA 



321 



anxious to earn a little money, come in with their sleighs. 
Pares are ridiculously low, and sleighing is within the reach 
of all. The river freezes to a depth of five or six feet, and 
makes a popular drive. Another favorite sport is coasting ; 
skating isn't very common, as it is too severe exercise." 

" Coasting ! " echoed Fred. " Where do they get a chance 
to coast in this level 
place ? " 

" They build high 
stagings that are 
reached on one side 
by steps, on the other 
by an inclined plane, 
just like the toboggan 
slides of your country. 
Water poured over 
the incline freezes im- 
mediately, and there 
you have a first-class 
coast." 

" I was surprised at the beauty and swiftness of the 
Neva," said Mrs. Cartmell. " I had expected a sluggish 
stream. How long a course has it ? " 

'■Only thirty-six miles from Lake Ladoga to the gulf," ans- 
wered Mr. Larssen ; " but coming from the great lake, it brings 
to St. Petersburg an inexhaustible supply of pure drinking- 
water. Connecting the city with the lake system, it furnishes 
a means of communication with a vast inland territory." 

" I didn't expect to see any large vessels above Kronstadt," 
remarked Miss Gray. " Isn't the present arrangement some- 
thing recent ? " 

" Yes. Within a few years the channel between that city 
and this has been improved, until now vessels drawing twenty- 
two feet of water can ascend the river to this point." 




Troyka. 



322 NORTHERN EUROPE 

" Tell us more about the winter here," said Fred. '' Isn't 
it fearfully cold ? How do people keep warm ? " 

" It is terribly cold, of course, but preparations are made 
for such weather. The houses are built with double doors 
and windows, and are kept very comfortable. The double 
windows look very pretty, for between the two sashes they 
place artificial plants, that give the appearance of flourishing 
window-gardens. The cars are warmed by large stoves, great 
fires are kept burning in the public squares, and every one 
dresses in fur or skin. The poorer classes wear sheepskin 
made wrong side out, while the rich are clad in elegant furs. 
Society is very gay ; the theatres are crowded, and elegant 
balls are given. At a ball given by the empress last Avinter, 
three thousand guests Avere present, and you can hardly im- 
agine the magnificence of the decorations and costumes. The 
emperor wore his uniform of colonel of the Horse Guards ; 
every man Avho was entitled to any decoration displaj^ed it ; 
and the ladies' dresses were superb." 

" St. Petersburg has more and larger palaces than any 
other city, and I think Ave must see some of the most famous. 
Let us go to-day to the Winter Palace and the Hermitage," 
said Mr. French. 

The first view of the Winter Palace Avas imposing, but as 
the travellers drcAA^ nearer they found it Avas covered Avith 
stucco, and profusely ornamented in extremely poor taste. 
The interior was showy, and they saw room after room gor- 
geous in decoration and furniture. The throne room of Peter 
the Great Avas shown them, hung with velvet of a beautiful 
soft red, embroidered with golden eagles. 

" Does the Czar live here ? " asked Fred. 

" Yes. This is usually the royal residence, and it is one 
of the largest in the Avorld. It is said to accommodate six 
thousand people. Can you imagine it ? " 

" What is the Hermitage ? " inquired Nellie. 



RUSSIA 323 

"That is a smaller palace connected, with this by a cov- 
ered passage. It contains a museum, and one of the finest 
picture galleries in the world. It is an exceedingly interest- 
ing building." 

They found that Mr. Larssen had not prepared them for 
the pleasures that awaited them in the Hermitage. The 
boys could hardly be induced to leave the relics of Peter the 
Great. His horse and dog were shown, having been stuffed 
and placed in the exhibit ; but they were far from being the 
most attractive souvenirs of the great Czar. 

" I don't care so much for those," observed George. ''' All 
kings have horses and dogs ; but these carvings that he made, 
and the turning-lathe that he used, make the story of his life 
so real." 

The girls were in raptures over the crown jewels ; nor 
were the others indifferent. 

"What diamonds!" ejaculated Florence. "I never saw 
anything so magnificent." 

''That must be the Orloff diamond!" exclaimed George, 
pointing to the largest of the gems. " Isn't it ? " 

" You are right," replied Mr. Larssen. " That stone is 
larger than the Koh-i-noor, but not so perfect, and is said to 
be worth about eight hundred thousand dollars." 

Leaving the Hermitage late in the day, they paused to 
notice a stately column of red granite that stood opposite. 

"Isn't that the Alexander column?"^ asked Mrs. Cart- 
mell, as they approached it. 

" Yes ; and its erection was one of the greatest triumphs 
of engineering skill that you will find." 

" Why is that ? " inquired Fred. 

"Examine a little and you will see," returned Mr. Larssen, 
smiling. 

" Why, it is one solid shaft ! " replied the boy, after scan- 
1 See p. 315. 



324 NORTHERN EUROPE 

'iiing it carefully for a few moments. "How was it ever 
placed here ? " 

'< The stone, which is eighty-four feet long, and fourteen 
feet in diameter, was brought from the quarries in Finland. 
Then, under the direction of a skilled French architect, it 
was swung into position, fifty-four minutes only being re- 
quired to raise it and place it on its pedestal. The bronze of 
the base and capital is made of Turkish cannon which have 
been captured in war." 

As they were returning to the hotel they stopped at a 
jeweller's to buy some amber ornaments that were displayed 
in the window. 

<' What is amber. Miss Gray ? " asked Nellie. 

" It is a fossil resin cast up by the waters of the Baltic. 
Once upon a time great forests of amber-producing pines grew 
over the area now covered by the waters of the sea. AVe do 
not know what convulsion of nature submerged these forests, 
but we have proof of their existence in this beautiful yellow 
gum. Bits of cones and bark are found with it, and insects 
are often found enclosed within it." 

They were fortunate enough to find a number of good 
specimens, and pretty little articles of jewelry both of amber 
and malachite, and made a number of purchases. 

" The men all take off their hats on entering a store here, 
just as they did in Norway," observed George. 

"The reason is different, however," replied Gustav. 
" Didn't you notice the picture with candles burning before 
it ? That is a picture of the merchant's patron saint, and 
it is considered extremely rude, as well as irreverent, not to 
notice it. You will find these little shrines in every house, 
and gentlemen will always remove their hats or cross them- 
selves on entering the place." 



CHAPTER XXlll 

MOSCOW AND NI JNI-NOVGOROD 

''But what luive you done to-day? Did you go any- 
where ? " iuquiied Gustav. 

'• Oh, yes ! " replied Florence. '■' We have had a nice day. 
You mustn't miss going to the Mineralogical Academy. Of 
course we have studied about the wealth of Russia, and 
learned that the Ural Mountains are rich in gems; but it 
seemed very different to see beautiful rubies, opals, topazes, 
and diamonds which came from that region. There was one 
monstrous gold nugget weighing eighty pounds, and fine speci- 
mens of other metals." 

When Mr. Cartmell came in, later in the evening, he 
brought a letter to Mr. Larssen, over which the latter looked 
quite disturbed. 

" What is the matter, papa ? " asked Gustav, who had 
been watching him closely. 

" It is a business affair which, I fear, will put an end to 
our pleasant vacation, as my lawyer wishes me to return to 
Stockholm with all possible speed." 

A chorus of exclamations of disappointment and dismay 
arose from all. It had been such a pleasure for them to be 
together, and they were anticipating so much in travelling 
through Russia. 

" I am greatly disappointed for Gustav and myself, but 
I would like to introduce to you a Russian gentleman whom 
I have known for a long time, — Mr. Skalkovski. I called at 
his place of business to-day, and found him intending to leave 
the city soon to visit Moscow, Nijni-Novgorod, and Warsaw. 

325 



326 



XORTHEKN" EUROPE 



That is your route, and you cannot do better than to make 
your time agree with his/' 

Mr. Skalkovski called on them the next day, and proved 
to be a very agreeable gentleman, very glad to join the Ameri- 
can party on their journey. They were much pleased with 
him, though they could but regret the departure of the genial 
Swede and his boy, who had been their companions for the 
Scandinavian trip. 

Day after day passed, each bringing to their attention some 
new feature of interest in the beautiful cit}' of the north, until 
at last Mr. Cartmell said they must leave much unseen, and 
go away to the south. 




The Village Well. 



A journey of four hundred miles brought them to "Mother 
Moscow," as the Russians call the ancient capital. The rail- 
road was evidently built for the sole purpose of connecting 
the older city with the more modern one, for it runs between 
the two in a straight line, regardless of the cities that might 
have been benefited by it. 

Part of the way led through forests which seemed im- 
passable ; again, they caught sight of little farming districts, 
looking poverty-stricken and forlorn. 



MOSCOW AND NUNI-iVOVGOROD 



327 



" Oh, dear ! what poor little places ! " exclaimed Florence. 
" Do Kussian peasants generally live like this, Mr. Skal- 
kovski ? " 







-^ ^ ■^^-^^'^iM 







Peasant Home and Farmyard. 
Russian Village. 



'^ These are fair specimens of their houses," was the reply, 
" though you may find better as well as worse. 

'' The average peasant is very poor and very ignorant. His 



328 



NORTHER^T EUROPE 



farming is carried on in the most primitive manner, and his 
living is of the simplest description. His dress is sheepskin, 
made wrong side out, and is rarely changed or washed. Many 
of the houses have but one room, and if in winter they find it 
difficult to keep comfortably warm, the cattle are brought in, 
so that the heat of their bodies may raise the temperature. 

This emergency seldom arises, 
however ; for generally an enor- 
mous brick stove occupies about 
a quarter of the room, and the 
heat is dreadful. The top 
of the stove is flat, and is 
used as a bed by as many 
as can find accommodation 
on its broad surface. 

"They are so heavily 
taxed that it takes almost 
all they can earn to meet 
the demands of the govern- 
ment, and it is almost im- 
possible for them to better their condition." 

The journey was a tedious one, and all rejoiced when the 
train rolled into Moscow. 

The Kremlin was the place which all wished to visit, as all 
had read of that, and as soon as possible they arranged to go 
thither. 

"I think we forget that other Russian cities have their 
KremUns, or citadels," said Mrs. Cartmell, "and think of the 
name as applied solely to the Moscow buildings." 

'• I suppose that this one does overshadow all others," re- 
joined Mr. Cartmell ; " in fact, all travellers in Russia will 
urge you to go to Moscow, and then will tell you that when 
you have seen the Kremlin, you have seen the city." 
" Is it a large place ? " asked Nellie, 




Moujik, 



330 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



" It measures about two miles in circumference, and is- 
almost a city in itself, with spacious streets on which stand 
cathedrals and churches, besides numerous state and public 
buildings." 

The ancient fortress was familiar to all from pictures ; but 







St. Basil's Church, Moscow. 



no picture ever did justice to the huge pile as it lies under a 
clear blue sky, bathed in the rays of the warm summer sun. 
The walls are white, with green-roofed watch-towers, and 



MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 



331 



beyond one sees marvellous towers of strange shapes and all 
colors, red, blue, and gilt, festooned with heavy gilt chains, 




Redeemer Gate, or Holy Gate. 



all combining to inake a picture matchless in outline and 
color, which, once seen, can never be forgotten. 



332 



XORTHERiY EUROPE 



The most remarkable cathedral of Moscow is not in the 
Kremlin, however, but stands just without the wall. This 
cathedral of St. Basil is unique. No two of its towers are 
alike, yet the effect is not unpleasant. 

Our friends entered the Kremlin by the Redeemer's Gate, 
close by St. Basil's. As they approached, Mr. Skalkovski 
remarked, '^ The picture which hangs over this gateway is re- 
garded as peculiarly sacred, and whatever one's nationality, 
creed, or rank, he must walk bareheaded as he passes under." 




Vieiv from the Kremlin. 

Situated m the grand courtyard is the great tower of Ivan, 
which serves as bell-tower for the three cathedrals. 

" Can't we go up ? " demanded Fred, looking longingly at 
the top, more than three hundred feet above his head, 

''If you wish," returned his mother; "you will have a 
fine view." 



IMOSCOW AND NTJNI-NOVGOROD 



833 



The boys waited no longer, but made the ascent at once. 

" It was much more interesting than any tower we found 
in St. Petersburg/' reported George, on rejoining the othei 
group. " Moscow 
is so hilly that it 
is very pictur- 
esque, and the 
river winding 
through it adds 
greatly to its 
beauty." 

"The lowest 
story of the tower 
is a chapel, but in 
each of the others 
are bells. One 
immense one is 
said to weigh six- 
ty tons. I wish 
that would ring 
while we are here. 
It is the largest 
bell in use in the 
world. The chime 
of silver bells in 
the upper part rings every noon, so we shall probably hear 
the national hymn in that way to-day, but we would have to 
be here on a holy day to hear all of them." 

At the foot of the tower stands the famous King of Bells, 
mounted on a pedestal of granite. 

" What a monster ! " ejaculated Fred, gazing at the metal 
giant. '' Was it ever used ? and where did it hang ? " 

'■' Accounts of it differ greatly," said Mr. "French. "Ac- 
cording to some It once hung in a tower which stood just 




The Great Bell, Moscow. 



334 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



about where the bell now is. This was destroyed by fire, and 
the bell, falling from a height, plunged into the earth, where 
it lay buried for a hundred 3^ears, when it was exhumed and 
placed in its present position. You see it is broken, and can 
never be made whole. Others deny that it was ever hung, 
but say that the shed in the shelter of which it was cast took 
fire, and that the water used to extinguish the flames, falling 
upon the heated metal, broke it." 

" How large is it ? ^' pursued Pred. 

" It is twenty-one feet high, and the material used in its 
construction cost something like half a million of dollars." 

The Treasury was a museum of national souvenirs and 
trophies, and more than one visit was made before the trav- 
ellers were satisfied with their knowledge of its contents. 
Crown after crown was seen, representing nations which had 
been conquered and reduced to mere provinces of Kussia. 

''Wonderful jewels these are," observed Miss Gray; ''but 
think of the awful cost at which they Avere brought here; of 
the plotting and planning, the struggles and defeats, and the 
numberless lives laid down before a country would yield its 

crown to another mon- 
arch. Here is the 
crown of Poland, for 
example " — 

"It is just as well 
not to refer to that in 
a public place," inter- 
rupted Mr. Skalkovski 
hastily, in a low tone. 
" Russian officials are 
very watchful, and may 
resent anything that 
seems to them to be a criticism of government. Bid yoij 
notice these magnificent rubies?" 




Treasury and Great Palaa- 



MOSCOAV AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 335 

''Were you here at the coronation of Nicholas II. ?" in-- 
quired George. 

" Yes ; I saw that, as well as the coronation of Alexander 
III., and a more gorgeous ceremony than the latter I never 
witnessed. The city was crowded with representatives of all 
nations, the decorations were magnificent, ajid the brilliant 
illuminations made the city gorgeous beyond imagination." 

"I am surprised to see so many evidences of manufactur- 
ing and mercantile industries," observed Mr. French. ''I sup- 
pose I have read that Moscow had large manufactories, but 
I didn't realize that I should find over thirty silk factories, 
and more than twice that number manufacturing vs^oollen 
goods, while there are over a hundred cotton-mills. The city 
is so situated that it communicates easily with both Northern 
and Southern Russia, and with the growth of the railway 
system it must increase in commercial importance. 

" Another thing that surprised me, and will interest you, 
is the University, where special attention is paid to the 
studies of jurisprudence, history, medicine, and physics." 

" Is the attendance large ?" queried Mrs. Cartmell. 

''About two thousand students are enrolled at present. 
It is open to all who can pass the examinations, the expense 
being merely nominal. The advantages are not confined 
merely to the students. The library, which is large and 
vahtable, is public." 

"We hardly look for that in Russia," rejoined Mr. Cart- 
mell, "and the fact that such advantages are found is a 
hopeful prophecy for the people." 

One of the pleasant features of the city life was the tea- 
gardens which they found scattered through the outskirts of 
the town. Here they saw groups of pleasure-seekers who 
enjoyed the out-of-door life as only inhabitants of high lati- 
tudes can. 

" How can they drink so much tea ? " exclaimed Miss 



836 



XORTIIEIIX EUROPE 



Gray, as they noticed table after table with the inevitable 
samovar, and watched the never-failing zest of the tea- 
drinkers. 

" Fortunately for their nerves, it is weak," responded Mr. 
Skalkovski, " the last cups not being much more than hot 
water ; but there seems to be no limit to the amount a peasant 
will drink, provided it is scalding hot. Yet tea doesn't take 
the place of stronger drink, for the peasant, after consuming 
a prodigious quantity, will end by 
swallowing a generous allowance of 
fearfully strong corn brandy." 

As they were sitting together 
in the evening, Florence referred to 
the difference between the people 
they had seen in the tea-gardens and 
those in the parks at St. Petersburg. 

''That illustrates the variety of 
Russian types," said her father. 
" Russia has absorbed so many 
countries that the empire now 
has a very mixed population. 
In the north are the Finns, in 
various sections are seen Poles, 
and in Southern Russia are the 
Cossacks, who almost live in the 
saddle." 

The next day preparations 
were made to journey farther 
east, and to attend the great annual Russian Fair at Nijni- 
Novgorod, in the central part of Russia, on the Volga River. 
" Why is this Fair always held on the Volga ? " 
" Because the Volga is the greatest waterway in the coun- 
try, and is connected by canals with various great centres of 
trade." 




^/O.J 



Cossacit 



338 NORTHERN EUROPE 

When, a few days later, they found themselves in the 
strange summer city, they quite agreed with Florence, who 
said, " The cities that we have seen have been growing 
queerer and queerer ever since we left England^ but this is 
certainly the strangest yet." 

Bargains were made with the driver of a drosky, and Mr. 
Cartmell and his party were soon carried past the line of 
the fair-grounds, over the bridge of boats, which, crossing the 
river, brought them to the upper and permanent city. 

This portion of the town which surrounds the Kremlin is 
finely situated on a high bluff, commanding an extensive view, 
with the rivers and the fair-grounds in the foreground, while 
away to the horizon stretch great fertile plains. 

" How many steamers do you suppose there are in sight?" 
asked Fred, gazing in astonishment at the swiftly moving 
vessels. 

" I don't know," replied George ; " let's see if you can 
count them." 

A few moments of silence followed" -before the result of 
the counts was given. There was some difference of opinion, 
but one hundred and ninety was the lowest number, and most 
of the party thought that they had counted over two hun- 
dred. 

" You Americans ought to be very proud of the steamers 
you see here," observed Mr. Skalkovski. 

« Why is that ? " asked Mr. Cartmell. 

"■ Because the first one was built in your country, and 
brought here. It served as a model for others, until the pres- 
ent result has been reached." 

" Just look at all those flatboats moored yonder," said 
George ; " what are they doing there ? " 

'' They have probably been towed here by some of the 
steamers, and having discharged a part of their cargo, are 
used as storehouses for the remainder. The crews live on 



MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROU 339 

board during the fair, and at the end of the season they 
Avill be engaged to carry return cargoes to distant ports on 
the rivers or on the Caspian." 

" How long is this fair open ? " asked Miss Gray. 

''It opens on the 5th of August, and closes on the 15th 
of September. Perhaps you can distinguish the governor's 
house, with two white flags flying in front of it. At the 
close of the last day those flags are lowered, and their dis- 
appearance is a signal for. the merchants to pack up their 
goods and return to their own towns and villages." 

"I did not know that Nijui-Novgorod was so much of a 
place," said Mr. French; "but the Kremlin, with its high 
walls, its gay, fantastic towers and domes, gives the impres- 
sion of a good-sized town. How many inhabitants has it ? "' 

" About forty thousand, permanently," returned Mr. Skal- 
kovski ; " but at this season of the year it is nearly a quarter 
of a million." 

Their first visit to the fair-grounds Avas a surprise to 
them. The crowd was large, but only a few unfamiliar 
nationalities were noticeable. The most striking of these 
strangers were the Persians and Armenians, whose long, flow- 
ing robes and quaint headdresses formed a strong contrast to 
the ordinary European, as Avell as to the national peasant cos- 
tumes. The Tartars, who acted as workmen and as waiters 
in the tea-houses, were new to our friends. These had marked 
Mongolian features, shaved their heads, and wore close-fitting 
skull-caps. 

The low tongue of land which separates the two rivers is 
regularly laid out with straight streets crossing each other at 
right angles. Each article of merchandise is assigned to its 
own street, iron being in one, cotton in another, and so on. 
In one place our party came upon a row of shops filled with 
trunks. 

"Such, trunks !" ejaculated Mrs. Cartmell. "Would you 



340 NORTHERN EUROPE 

dare use one iu your own country ? See that light-green one 
with yellow decorations, or the red one with bright-blue trim- 
mings. Do people really buy them ? " 

'• Indeed they do, thousands of them ; and very happy is 
the peasant bride who has such a gorgeous receptacle for her 
wardrobe and wedding finery." 

" I should think there Avould be more buying and selling 
going on than we see here," remarked George. "Most of the 
shops are very quiet." 

'' You will see the reason for that if you remember that 
most of the dealers have the Oriental disposition to haggle 
over a bargain. When a customer comes along, the dealer sets 
a price far above what he expects to receive. The customer, 
in turn, offers much less than he intends to give. They both 
protest and demur, and then, Russian fashion, go to a tea- 
house, where, with a samovar between them, they drink and 
haggle till the bargain is completed and the samovar empty." 

Turning from the section where heavy goods were sold, 
they found themselves surrounded by dealers in Persian and 
Turkish textiles. Elegant shawls and rich draperies were 
displayed wliich delighted the ladies, while the gentlemen 
were equally enthusiastic over the thick, soft rugs they saw. 

" I would buy one if I dared. Do you think it would be 
safe ? " said Mr. French, appealing to Mr. Skalkovski. 

" Better not do it," warned that gentleman. " You would 
be cheated outrageously, and very likely have your rug stolen 
before you left town." 

A little farther on they were startled by what sounded 
like pistol-shots fired in quick succession. Turning a corner, 
they found it was only a Tartar, who, armed with a long wil- 
low stick, was vigorously beating furs. 

" See all that Astrakhan fur," said Mrs. Cartmell. 

'' Isn't that what we call Persian lamb, mamma ? " queried 
Nellie. 



MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 341 

" Yes ; and the latter name is better, for it is the skin of a 
new-born lamb. Tlie younger the poor little creature is, the 
greater the value of the fleece. These skins are brought to 
the chief port on the Caspian, and the fur being shipped 
from there, has taken the name of the city, rather than of the 
animal from which it comes." 

The gems which were offered for sale were beautiful, and 
gave a still clearer idea of the immense wealth of the Ural 
Mountains than the young folks had yet had. Topazes were 
shown, varying in color; yellow was the most common, but 
some white ones almost rivalled diamonds in beauty, while 
some were blue or green. Garnets ranged in hue from a 
light cinnamon stone to one which looked almost black, but on 
being held in the sun showed a deep red. Diamonds, ame- 
thysts, agates, rubies, and sapphires were also shown from 
the same mountains, as well as malachite and other copper 
ores, — gold, lead, and silver. 

" We think this disj)lay is very rich," said Mr. Gartmell ; 
'* yet they say that iron is the most valuable article brought 
to the fair, and the trade in that is the greatest." 

The heat in the streets was so intense that the tourists 
were obliged to return to their hotel before noon of each 
day, and not venture out again until near night. 

" We don't associate such tropical weather with Russia 
in our minds," said Miss Gray. " Is this the usual summer 
temperature ? " 

" Yes. In JSTijui-Novgorod they experience the extremes. 
Mercury freezes here in winter, and in summer the heat is 
correspondingly great." 

" One of the things that seems to me especially strange," 
said Mr. Cartmell, after several days had been spent in sight- 
seeing, " is the silence of the people. In an American crowd, 
under the same circumstances, there would be constant hurry 
and bustle, laughter, shouting, and noise of all sorts ; but here 



342 



NORTHERN EUROPE 



they take life seriously, and scarcely seem to speak as they 
move about in their leisurely fashion." 

" The flocks of pigeons have interested us,'" observed Mrs. 




Wolues attacking Travellers. 



Cartmell. " They have been noticeable all through Kussia, 
but are particularly so here. Is it a favorite bird in this 
country ? " 



MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 343 

" It is an emblem of the Holy Spirit, and is therefore re- 
garded as sacred/' replied Mr. Skalkovski. "No one would 
think of killing one, or harming it in any way." 

" You haven't spoken of one thing that we boys have 
noticed," said Fred. " That is, that instead of eating peanuts, 
as they do in our country, every one has sunflower seeds, 
which they eat with as great a relish as as Ave do our nut." 

On their way back to Moscow the conversation naturally 
turned to hunting. Mr. Skalkovski told Fred that certain 
parts of Russia were much visited by sportsmen, Avho came 
to shoot wolves. 

" Are there many of those here ? " asked Nellie, looking 
half fearfully into the dense forests through which they were 
riding. 

" A great many, and they are very troublesome to the 
farmers. They will kill the smaller animals, but except in 
winter the villagers are not in great danger from them. Dur- 
ing that season they get very hungry, and then make short 
work of the man or horse that meets a pack of them when 
travelling." 

The Cartmells spent a day or two in Moscow, and then 
visited Warsaw in Poland, where we must bid them adieu for 
the present. 



A LIST OF POEMS. 



Geography and Literature should go liand in hand. The poem 
often helps the reader io remember the place; the place suggests the 
poem. Thousands of poems associated with the countries mentioned 
in this volume have been written by noted poets. Only a small num- 
ber are given. These and others can be found in " Poems of Places." 
selected by Longfellow, or in the published works of the great English 
and American poets. 

DENMAIiK 

The King of Denmark's Ride Norton. 

Winter at Copenhagen Philips. 

The Ghost of Hamlet's Father Shake.'ipeare. 

The Battle of the Baltic Campbell. 

Kallundborg Church Whiitier. 

The Dole of Jarl Thorkell Whiitier. 

King Olaf's War-Horns Longfellow. 

Einar Tamberskelver Longfellow. 

King Volmer and Elsie Winter. 

The Erl-King's Daughter ....... Herder. 

King Olaf's Death-Drink Longfellow. 

ENGLAND. 

America and Great Britain Allston. 

The Lighthouse Longfellow. 

The Steamship Holmes. 

The Atlantic Cable Whittier. 

The Ocean Bijron, 

Boston in Lincolnshire Frothingham. 

Trinity College Tennyson. 

The Warden of the Cinque Ports .... Longfellow. 

Godiva Tennyson, 

The River Dart Hodges. 

Dartmoor Hemans. 

The Sands of Dee Kingsley. 

To the River Derwent Wordsworth. 

The Springs of Dover Wordsworth. 

John Gilpin Cowper. 

Eton College Gray. 

Furness Abbey . . , , S. Longfellow. 

345 



346 A LIST OF POEMS 

The Wishing Gate, Grasmere Wordsworth. 

Wordsworth's Grove Payn. 

Hampton Shakespeare. 

Hart-Leap Well Wordsworth. 

Helvellyn Scott. 

AVarwick • • • Crabbe. 

Lake-Land Payn. 

George III Smith. 

In York Aitken. 

The Ivy of Kenilworth Hemans. 

KesvFick Southey. 

The High Tide Ingelow. 

The Reapers of Lindesfarne Preston. 

The Mersey Parker. 

London Leighton. 

Two Queens in Westminster Morford. 

Lodore Southey. 

West London Arnold. 

Poets' Corner Leighton. 

Rotten Row, Hyde Park Locker. 

London Tohnson. 

Temple Bar Thornbury. 

Regent Street Cochrane. 

The November Fog of London . . . . . Luttrel. 

Naseby Macaulay. 

The Spanish Armada Macaulay. 

Richmond Thomson. 

The Thames Pope. 

The Rotha Southey. 

Rydal Mount Jewsbury. 

Rylstone Wordsworth. 

The Well of St. Keyne Southey. 

St. Michael's Chair Southey. 

The Padstow Lifeboat Stokes. 

The Cavalier's Escape Thornbury. 

The Countess of Pembroke Johnson. 

Robin Hood Parker. 

The Lord of the Sea Leitner. 

The Loss of the Royal George Cowper. 

At Spithead Croly. 

Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard . Gray. 

A Long Story Gray. 

Stratford-on-Avon Bell. 

Anne Hathaway Shakespeare. 

In Swanage Bay Mrs. CraiMr 

The Thames Butler, Cook, and Knox. 

Up the River Parker. 

The Bridge of Sighs Hood. 



A LIST OF POEMS 



347 



IRELAND. 

The Meeting of the Waters Moore. 

Adair Griffin. 

The Groves of Blarney Milliken. 

The Exile of Erin Campbell. 

Sweet Inuisfallen Moore. 

The Bells of Shandon Mahony. 

The Blacksmith of Limerick .Joyce. 

The Harp Moore. 

Tipperary Davis. 

A Legend of Antrim McGee. 

sweet Auburn Goldsmith. 



Brun. 

Taylor. 

Boye.se n. 

Longfellov). 

Boyesen. 

Lonfifellow. 

Boyesen. 

Longfellow. 

Wergeland. 

Mxbnch. 

Longfellow. 

Gilfillan. 

Longfellow. 

Boyesen. 



NORWAY. 

A Norwegian Popular Son 

The Norseman's Ride 

Norway ..... 

The Skerry of Shrieks 

St. Olaf's Fountain . 

King Olaf's Christmas 

Thoralf andSynnove 

The Crew of the Long Serpen 

Hardanger fiord . 

A Bridal Party . 

Iron-Beard . . . 

Ramsdal .... 

The Discoverer of the North Cape 

The Bride of Torresdell .... 

Bishop Sigurd at Sal. 

SCOTLAND. 

The Trossachs Scott. 

The Banks of Tay . . . . ' Carmichael. 

Chevy Chase Anon. 

Lochinvar Scott. 

Yarrow Unvisited Wordsworth. 

Yarrow Visited Wo7xlsivorth. 

Yarrow Revisited Wordsioorth. 

A Wraith in the Scottish Highlands . . . Morford. 

Glencoe Leighton. 

inchcape Rock Southey. 

Hawthornden Sigourney. 

Islands of Scotland Scott. 

Loch Con-eskin Scott. 

Lord Ullin's Daughter Campbell. 

Loch Katrine Scott. 

The Lomond Braes Chalmers. 

The Well of Loch Maree ....... Whittier. 



348 A LIST OF POEMS 

Locb Na Garr Byron. 

Lass of Logie Laing. 

Melrose Abbey Scott. 

Mossgiel Farm Wordsworth. 

The Banks of Nith Burns. 

The Lovely Lass of Preston Mill .... Cunningham. 

Rosabelle Scott. 

Sftaffa Sothehy. 

Fingal's Cave Keats. 

King James's Ride Scott. ' 

Caledonia Scott. 

Flow Gently, Sweet Afton Burns. 

A Farewell to Abbotsford Hemans. 

Abbotsford Smith. 

My Heart 's in the Highlands Burns. 

Barclay of Ury Whiltier. 

Birthplace of Robert Burns Pai'sons. 

Tarn O'Shanter Burns. 

Burns Miller, Halleck. 

The Brigs of Ayr Burns. 

Bruar Water Burns. 

The Seven Sisters Wordsworth. 

Branksonie Hall Scott. 

Bannockburn Burns. 

Ben Lomond Campbell. 

Banks of Ayr Burns. 

To Edinburgh Burns. 

At the Grave of Scott Sigourney. 

The Old Seaport Moir. 

Castle Gordon Burns. 

Lochiel's Warning Campbell. 

On a Young Lady Burns. 

SWEDEISr. 

Gothland Huet. 

The Laplanders Thomson. 

The Reindeer Anon. 

The Dial of Flowers Hemans. 

King Erich's Faith Seidl. 

Love Song of a Laplander Kleist. 

RUSSIA. 

The Charge of the Light Brigade .... Tennyson. 

The Conquest of Finland Whittier. 

The March to Moscow Southey. 

To Moscow Procter. 

A Song of the Camp Taylor. 



BOOKS CONSULTED 



The Atithor has consulted a large number of books in the prepara- 
tion of this volume. He herewith acknowledges his indebtedness to 
the following books and authors for many important facts. Travellers 
or children reading this book arc recommended to consult the following 
writers for fuller information. 

Ocean Steamsliips. 

Ireland Hall. 

Three ISIoiitlis in Ireland de Bovel. 

Northern Ireland Mrs. Craig. 

England, Scotland, and Ireland VlUara, Mason. 

Scotland Watt. 

Scotland and the Scotch . , „ Sinclair. 

Scottish Pictures Greene. 

To Staffa Ferguson. 

Land of Scott Ilannay. 

Scottish Loch Scenery Lydon. 

England Within and Without White. 

Forty Shires Masoru 

Notes in England and Italy Mrs. Hav)thorne. 

Notes on England Taine, 

Cathedral Days Dodd. 

English Cathedrals Mrs. Van Rens.ielaer. 

English Education Sharpless. 

The Flower of England's Face Mrs. Dorr. 

Land of Lorna Doone Rideing. 

Shakespeare's England Winter. 

Old Shrines and Ivy Winter. 

Through England Ilissey. 

On the Box Seat (To Land's End) .... Ilissey. 

On Southern English Roads Ilissey. 

From Paddington to Penzance Harper. 

American Four-in-hand in England .... Carnegie. 

England as seen by an American Banker . Patten. 

English Pictures Manriing. 

English Traits Emerson. 

About England with Dickens Rimimer. 

The English Lake District , . Boadeley. 

349 



350 BOOKS CONSULTED 



Our English Cousins Davis. 

Oxford ami Cambridge F. Arnold. 

AValks ill London Hare. 

London of To-Day Fascoe. 

How London Lives Gordon. 

London Fry, Hutton. 

London Pictures Lovett. 

The Poor of London Mayheiu. 

Curiosities of London Timbs. 

London Baedeker. 

Great Britain Baedeker. 

In Darkest England Booth. 

Stratford-on-Avon Lee. 

A Summer Holiday in Europe Blake. 

Norway Goodman. 

Norway and Its Glaciers Forbes. 

Norway to the North Cape , Kent. 

Due North > , = Ballon. 

Glimpses of Norseland , . Hervey. 

Land of the Lapps . TromboU. 

Land of the Midnight Sun Du Cliaillu 

Armies of To-Day Army and Navy Mag, 

To England and Back Knowles. 

West of England Press. 

Sunrise Land Berlyn. 

Holiday Resorts Ballin. 

Old English Homes Thompson. 

Holidays Walford. 

Bicycle Tour Chandler. 

The Pilgrim's "Way Cartv)right. , 

Russian Journey Proctor. 

Russia Wallace, Stoddard, Vin- 
cent. 

Through Russia on a Mustang Stevens. 

Russian Pictures Thomas, 

La Russie (well illustrated). 



IIN^DEX 



Abbotsford, 89-91. 

Albert Memorial, 160-1G2. 

Atlantic, 15-19. 

Amber, 324. 

Anne Hathaway Gott.ige, 201, 202 

Ayr, 64-66. 

Bed of the Ocean, 19. 
Ben Lomond, 74. 
Belfast, 47, 48. 
Bergen, 292. 
Birmingluim, 248. 
Block Country, 210. 
Blarney Castle, .32. 
Blenheim Park, 195, 196. 
Brighton, 2GS. 
Broomielaw Bridge, .55. 
Bournemoutli, 255, 257, 258. 
Brukeen Bridge, 39. 
Buckingham i'alace, 157. 
Burns, 64-67. 
Burns's Cottage, C-l. 
Mausoleum, 07. 

Cambridge, 103-106. 
Campania, 5, 5S-C1. 
Carriages in Norway, 280. 
Cathedrals, 93-103. 

Chester, 245. 

Ely, 102, 103. 

Lincoln, 9S-102. 

Peterborough, 100, 102. 

Winchester, 253. 

York, 93-97. 
Chapel of Henry Vll., 149. 
Charing Cross, i 10-112. 
Cheapside, 135. 
Chester, 245. 
Clyde, 56-58 
Commerce, 243. 
Compass, 12. 
Cork, 29-31. 
Cork Harbor, 29. 
Coronation Cluiir, 148. 
Copenhagen, 298-301. 
Cornwall, 261. 
Cossack, 336. 
Coventry, 206, 207. 
Cunai'd Steamer, 5. 

Track Chart, 10, 11. 

Denmark, 207-301. 
Derwentwater, 227-230, 
Dining-room, 4. 



Drawing-Lessons, 14,140. 
Drinking 'Pea, 314. 
Drosky, 317. 
Dublin, 44-48. 
Dumbarton Castle, 72; 

Enclosed Dock, 242. 
Engine, 17. 
England, 91. 

Bank, 131-134. 
English Characteristics, 176, 177 

Lakes, 215-233. 
Eton College, 181. 
European Tour, 1. 
Eagle's Nest, 35. 
Edinburgh, 78-85. 

Castle, 79-83. 

Old Part, 85. 
Ellen's Isle, 75. 

Fountain's Abbey, 101. 
Fred's Letter, 166. 
Furness Abbey, 217, 218. 
Falls, 229, 289, 297. 
Farm Buildings, 283. 
Fingal's Cave, 68-70. 
Fiords, 286-291. 
Fish Drying, 275. 
Fishing Schooner, 13. 
Fleet Street, 124-129. 
Forester's Cottage, 37. 
Forth Bridge, 78. 

Gap of Dunloe, 34. 
Geiranger Fiord, 287. 
General Route, 2. 
Giant's Causeway, 51, 52. 
Glasgow, 54-64. 
Gotha Canal, 306. 
Grange, 216. 
Grasmere, 222-224. 
Gray, the Poet, 184-186. 
Great Bell, 333. 
Greta Hall, 230. 

Hammerfest, 273, 274. 

Hansom Cab, 119. 

Hawarden, 247, 248. 

Heart of England, 178-194 

Holborn, 137. 

Holyrood Palace, 84. 

Hotel Metropole, 107. 

Horse Guards, 112. 

Houses of Parliament, 115, 151-155. 



351 



352 



INDEX 



Hyde Park, 158, 159. 

Industries, 234-250. 
lunisfallen, 38, 39. 
loua, 71. 
Ireland, 29-53. 
Irish Cabin, 43. 

Peasants, 43. 

Railways, 40, 41. 

Jaunting-car, 31. 

Kenilworth, 205, 206. 
Keswick, 227. 
Killarney, 34-40. 
Kirk-Alloway, fi5, 66. 
Kremlin, 329-333. 
Kronstadt, 311. 

Lake Country, 219-233. 

Lancasfer, 213, 214. 

Land's End. 266, 267. 

Laplanders, 276-278. 

Laplander's House, 277. 

Law Courts, 120. 

Limerick, 41. 

Lincoln Cathedral, 98-102. 

Liverpool, 238-245. 

Lloyd's, 154. 

Locli Katrine, 74-76. 

Loch Lomond, 73, 74. 

Lodore, 229. 

Lofr, 7, 8. 

London, 107-177. 

London Bridge, frontispiece. 

Monument, 129, 130. 
Lower Lake, 39. 
Lucania, 6. 
Ludgate Circus, 125. 

Making Bread, 282. 
Manchester, 234-238. 
Mansion House, 133. 
Map of the British Isles, 2. 

England and Wales, 92. 

Ireland, 33. 

London, 108, 109. 

Norway, Sweden, and Russia, 
270. 

Scotland, 63. 
Melrose Abbey, 87, 88. 
Metropole Hotel, 107. 
Middle Lake, 36. 
Moorlands, 211-213. 
Moscow, 325-334. 
Moujik, 328. 

Nrersfiord, 291. 
Nicholas II., 310. 
Nijni-Novgorod, 336-341. 
North Cape, 272, 273. 
Northeastern Ireland, 50. 
Norway, 269-296. 
Norwegian Wedding, 294. 

Old Curiosity Shop, 123. 
Old Lizard Head, 262. 



Old Weir Bridge, 39. 
Oxford, 188-194. 
Oxford Street, 138. 

Parks of London, 156-166. 
Parliament Square. 116. 

Houses, 115, 151-155. 
Peterborough Cathedral, 100. 
Penzance, 264-267. 
Poets' Corner, 147. 
Portsmouth, 255. 
Preston, 234, 236. 

Queenstown, 25-29. 

Regent Street, 164. 
Richmond Hill, 165. 
Round Tower, 49. 
Ross Castle, 38. 
Routes (see Maps). 
Royal Exchange, 131, 134. 
Rugby, 207-209. 
Russia, 309-343. 
Russian Coacbman, 317. 

Sleigh, 320. 

Store, 319. 

Villages, 326, 327. 

Winter, 322. 
Rydal Mount, 225, 226. 

Water, 224. 

Scotland, 54-85. 

Scott's Monument, 81. 

Search-light, 22-23. 

Seven Dials, 137-139. 

Seven Sisters, 289. 

Shakespeare, 196-202. 

Shamrock, 44. 

Ship-building, .59-62. 

Ship Canal, 237. 

Skees 285. 

Southern Part of England, 251-267. 

South Kensington Museum, 162, 163. 

St. Michael's Mount, 263. 

St. Paul's, 127-129. 

St. Petersburg, 312-324. 

Stirling, 77. 

Stockholm, 304-306. 

Stoke Pogis, 184-186. 

Stonehenge, 256. 

Strand, 117-123. 

Stratford-on-Avon, 196-202. 

Sweden, 301-308. 

Swedish Iron, 307. 

Tavistock, 260. 
Teignmouth, 259. 
Temple Bar, 121-123. 
Thames Embankment, 167-169. 
Thorwaldsen Museum, 2CD. 
Tower, 170-174. 
Tower Bridge, 173-175. 
Trafalgar Square, 107, 110. 
Trossachs, 76. 
Troyka, 321, 

Triple-expansion Engine, 17, 
Tug, 3. 



INDEX 



358 



Twin Screws, IG, 

Ullswater, 231-233. 

Vale of Croiiifoid, 210, 211. 
Victorian Embankment, 167-1G9, 

Warwick, 203, 204. 
Western Part of Ireland, 42, 43. 
Westminster Abbey, 141-149. 
Westminster Hall, 113, 150. 
Wlieel-bouse, 21. 



Wbitecliapel, 175. 
Whitehall, 111, 114. 
,^Vinchester, 252-254. 
Windermere, 218-222. 
Windsor Castle, 178-183. 
Wordsworth's Grave, 223. 

House, 225. 

Seat, 225. 

York Minster, 93-99. 
Zoological Gardens, 1G4. 



# 



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